Cooking Tips : How to Roll Sushi

To make a sushi roll first you need to start off with some ingredients. You want to make sure that you have your seaweed, your filling, your rice, a bowl of water, and a towel ready to go. And you should also have a bamboo roller covered in plastic wrap. The plastic wrap will help keep everything from sticking to it. First we are going to put down our seaweed wrap and the way you can tell between a good piece of seaweed is darker a color it is the better quality it is. Okay, next I am going to take some rice and the rice should be sticky rice.

You want to make sure that you do make the sushi rice. It does make a big difference. And I am just going to press it into my seaweed. And because it is sticky that is what your bowl of water is for. You are just going to rinse your fingers off, grab more rice, and press it in. Okay, once you have your rice all put together you want to make sure that you do leave a little bit of space right here so when we roll it up it has something to stick to. Next I am going to add my fillings into the roll. And here we are just going to do a very simple cucumber roll. Okay, now it is time to roll. So what I am going to do is I am going to take my bamboo mat and I am going to use that to fold over my roll. From here you are going to use your bamboo mat and pull it tightly as you roll it. Once you have the first roll you are just going to use your bamboo mat to continue to roll.

As you roll make sure each time that you are pressing tightly so that everything holds together. And that is your sushi roll. From here to make sure you get even cuts what you want to do is first cut it right down the middle. And to have even pieces from there go ahead and take that and we are going to cut it down the middle again. From here you can continue to cut to desired thickness.

And that is how you make a sushi roll. .

Beekeeping for Beginners — Hive Set Up

Hi Im Tricia, an organic gardener. I grow organically for a healthy and safe food supply, for a clean and sustainable environment, for an enjoyable and rewarding experience. Increase the yields from your fruit trees and your vegetable garden and reap the sweet reward of honey by setting up a beehive in your own backyard. Today we’re gonna review what equipment you need and how to setup your hive.

First we need to select a dry level location that we can access year round. Ideally you’ll face the hive entrance towards the southern exposure. The bees will fly straight out of the entrance so make sure it’s not facing directly into a sidewalk, the neighbor’s yard, or your own family or pets play area. You can set up your hive to face a hedge or fence and the bees will quickly learn to fly up and over the barrier keeping them out of your hair, literally. Be aware of any pests in your neighborhood and plan accordingly.

For example, if you have bears in the area install an electric fence preemptively to keep them from getting a taste of the honey because once they get one taste they may just charge through an electric fence in the future. If you have skunks in the area build a stand for your hive to sit on that’s at least eighteen inches tall. What happens is the skunks at night will rile up the bees, then wait for them to fly out of the hive and eat them like candy. You can set up your hive either directly on the ground or on a flat surface like this pallet. This redwood hive stand will resist rot. This is a solid bottom board it helps keep the bottom of the hive secure. There also screened bottom boards that can help with monitoring pasts such as mites. This entrance reducer fits snugly into the bottom board and is useful while the colony establishes itself and does the trick for keeping mice out of the hive.

Once you see an increasing amount of bee traffic you can rotate the entrance reducer to the larger entrance or remove it all together. Depending on the weather and the availability of pollen when you get your new bees you may want to install a feeder. This will encourage the new colony to draw comb quickly so the queen can lay eggs and the workers can store pollen. If you want to use the entrance reducer and the feeder at the same time your going to need to cut your entrance reducer to size. The entrance feeder is great because you can add the sugar syrup without having to open the hive. The sugar syrup is just a combination of one to one ratio of organic sugar and hot water, let it cool before feeding the bees. Next up are the two brood chambers, these nine and five eighths inch boxes are gonna be the core of your bees home. Within these two boxes the queen will lay eggs which will turn into larvae, pupae and immature bees all of which are referred as brood, hence the name, brood chambers, or brood box.

These two brood boxes are where the bees will store their food to survive the winter. A beekeeper will inspect the chambers to be sure that they’re healthy but you don’t want to steal the honey from these bottom two chambers if you want your bees to survive the winter. Once the bees have filled up these boxes to about eighty five percent with brood and honey and that’ll take about six to twelve months then you can add an addition.

In order to keep the queen in the brood chambers lay a queen excluder on top of the brood chambers. The queen is much larger than the worker bees therefore she cannot fit through these narrow gaps but the workers can. Now for the sweet part, these are the honey supers and these are six and five eighths inch pine boxes that you’re gonna add to the top of your chambers. Add one of these additions at a time to your beehive. Once your super is about fifty percent full of honey you can add another one. You’ll notice that i’m setting up an eight frame hive today. This means that there’s eight of these wooden frames that the bees will draw their honeycomb onto in each box. Commercial apiaries will generally use a ten frame super but those can be very heavy up to about sixty pounds and for the home beekeeper you want it a little bit more manageable when you take your super inside the house to harvest the honey. the inner cover is set on top of the last super it has a hole for ventilation and provides insulation from extreme heat and cold.

And at last the cover which will provide protection from rain and snow and in this case it will add a decorative feature to the garden. Optionally you can secure your hive with tie downs or straps. This pine hive is beautiful and if you want it to retain its function and appearance it’s important to paint it before the bees arrive. I’m going to paint mine with this natural non-toxic poly whey clear varnish, but you can use latex on the outside. I’m starting with two hives and to make painting easier I’ve stacked all the boxes.

One of the best tips for beginners is to start with two bee hives like i’m doing today so that you can compare and contrast them over time helping you to better understand what normal looks like. Since bees can differentiate between colors have some fun and paint your hives different colors if you wish, and you’ll help your new bees better find their way home.

Now that everything is dry my hives are ready for the bees. I’m using the redwood base, the solid bottom board, the entrance reducer, two brood boxes, the inner cover, and the roof. I’m going to store the two supers and the queen excluder until i need them. So be a beekeeper and grow organic for life! .

DIY Platform Bed With Floating Night Stands (Plans Available)

Picture yourself walking into your room and absorbing the feeling of accomplishment This is the feeling I get when I walk in this space Let me take a few seconds to give you the detail on this build the majority of this platform bed was made entirely from 8-Inch lumber from Your local hardware store featuring two floating nightstand with the idea of saving space and not jeopardizing Functionality the next only has a place to store your lamp but on the inside I also have a place to store a book and IPad and anything that you want within arm’s reach and also let’s not forget the electrical outlet providing you two ports to charge your lamp Or any device and one of my most important features of this build is the on and off switch That control the undermount led puck lights and with the added lights these gives off a luxury feel within the space and with the whopping 116 inch headboard back with Led strips to set the mood in your space Hey, what’s up guys? I’m going with Diy creators and today I’m going to making a modern platform bag for the bedroom actually be getting a ton of requests to make a bed and actually we Do the bed so you know I like like you know? I love leds, and I’ve had to find a way to incorporate them and with this build This is basically a temporary bed for me and what I mean by that is there’s a lot of work I need to do in this room gotta paint the wall.

I replaced the floors a lot of things I want to do and this bed is not what I had in my dream bedroom But it’s a space right now And it should for the time being actually like the way this one came and hopefully you guys are in this one, so if you check out in the video description You should see all the information about the bed how much it costs and other details about it? So if you have any question you can check there you can just ask me any comments And I’ll get back to you and with that being said let’s do it For this project you do not need a ton of tools But there’s a ton of cutting and I would totally recommend a miter saw if you don’t have one. Maybe you can borrow one you can rent from your local hardware store your next option would using a circular saw and You’d probably want to use a jig to cut those just so you have some consistency I do have a jig that I made a while back So you can check that out or you can check out into one of the circular saw cutting guides And that should help you along with this project There’s a ton of cutting with this project and majority of it is all repetitive So I’m just going to make all my cuts and then you can see here’s all the finishing pieces that I’ve cut down to size And now that everything is cut I can now move on to sanding Now you only need one sander for this project, but since I had the luxury of having two of them I decided to put both them to use I used one with 80 grit sandpaper on it and then I use the other one with 120 grit Sandpaper on it now keep in .

If you have a thickness planer, and this is probably the time to use it That is number come pretty rough So there’s a ton of work prepping them and smoothing them out and I do this process over and over again And then I finally finish sanding them off with 120 grit sandpaper I’m not sure how well this works, but I was doing everything in my power to speed up the process for the bed frame I’m going to use a glossy latex black paint so applied paint I’m using a foam roller and this gave me the best chance of getting a good finish without putting out a paint sprayer For the backing on the headboard I use plywood and those gonna come in 8-foot section So the thing is I need to extend those and I use plywood Glue and also pocket hole screws just to extend it to the width that I need The bed Frame is painted black and to keep a consistent look I painted the bottom part of the headboard as well So that it blends in at this point the plywood is pretty heavy on its own, but more and more add foot on it It’s going to get heavy in heavier each time so it’s important secure the plywood in place as you the pieces Of course having a helping hand with total make your job a whole lot easier But if you don’t have the luxury of that the clamps work, just fine After adding all the lumber the headboard became extremely heavy if I had to guess it was probably between 300 and 400 pounds Being that I’m so close to the edge is best to pre-drill so that I don’t split the lumber So secure the lumber to the plywood I add a two screw per board approximately every 24 inches Due to the size of the headboard your eyes will be drawn it more than anything else on the bed So in this case Doujin design the way you like Maybe you want to carry the wood across the entire width of the plywood in this case for me I wanted to see that line going back and forth I wanted that stagger look I just continue the same step over and over until I get to the last row For the finish I use a dark walnut danish all apply with the rag now if you like the color darker You can always add more and more layers, but I was pretty satisfied with the tone of this one now Let’s move the focus over to the floating Nightstand each Nightstand will have the same set up make life a little easy I’m going to cut out the junction box opening so that we can install those later on Using a Jigsaw will make quick work of removing this section if you don’t have a jigsaw you can always drill a bunch of holes And then chisel out the rest if you feel like you like a challenge And you want to do this by hand you can always use a coping saw go this route.

It’s a lot of work, but it’s still an option To assemble the Nightstand I’m going to use dowels Now dowels can be frustrated in the work with because you have to be pinpoint on to make sure everything line up You should mark both pieces of wood at the same time that way you have a reference when you use the dowel jig This dowel jig by Rockler actually have a center line them it you place the center line on the marking You’ll be more than likely to get a straight hole drilled Before applying glue.

It’s always best to test to make sure everything fits. Well as a reminder mark both pieces the same so I know which to go together to ensure that my Accuracy was on I just marked drilled mark drilled And I did the same thing all the way around for each side on each box wasn’t sure about a quarter inch dowels, so decided to beef those up with and This pretty self-explanatory I’m just going to add a ton of glue in the hole on the joints and also on top of the dowels as well And after this part is done. It’s time to bring out the clamps once the glue dries That’s what the majority of the strength comes from so you want to be sure that you clamp this down as tight as possible If you don’t build often enough and don’t further need to own clamps which you could do is use screws and Wood glue at the Joints Then use wood filler to cover the screw heads My intention is to have the end table an inch or two inch lower than the top of the bed next going to measure And mark the inside of the end table Then I’m going to drill a few pilot holes going all the way through the headboard just to mark the backside of the end table I want this switch to be somewhat hidden But also in the location that I can get to it easily and this switch is meant to turn on the puck light that’s going To be below the end table the light that I plan put here comes in a kit And it also has a tail on it, so what I’m going to do to keep the your hidden I’m going to drill up, but at an angle so the way you come out through the back so at this point It’s a good idea to just mark everything while the end table is in place even though outlet and with the end table removed I Can now drill all the holes out for the bolts to pass through the last bolt? I just drew actually fell into the opening of the outlet so I had to redo that one The NCA was meant to be removable this way you can remove it and move the headboard around that will notice I have tape on My drill bit as an indicator so that I didn’t exit out the other side of the table This is the location that I plan to put the on and off switch for the puck legs Since I can’t get my drill to drilling from the inside I’m going to attach a piece of wood and drill in from the backside and this way I can avoid any major tear outs I drew the 3/4 hole, but it seems like it’s a tight fit So I just have to wobble out the hole just a little bit to accept the switch after and applying the Danish oil as I did previously now going to add wipe-on poly urethane as a top coat for this finish after applying the first coat of polyurethane And then went back with a 400 grit sandpaper sand that down then I applied one more coat onto it You can do it a third time to get it even better finish, but I was happy with a second coat Since I wanted to achieve the glowing effect behind the headboard I decided to add some Strips of wood going around and this would serve a couple of things one is a resting area for the leds sit But also help kicks the bed off the wall So when I plug the power cord in it doesn’t interfere with the headboard not I have the headboard in the room I’m going to add the electrical wire and that’s going to go from one outlet to other outlet Here’s the puck that I shown previously in the video I’m just going to cut the plastic Connector off of it Pass the wire through that was drilled and then screw the light into place These led puck light comes in a kit, and I really like the low profile of them and I have links to these down in the video description, you have the on off switch for these I’m going to use some spade Connectors which are called push on Connectors or many different names ? Terminated those to a piece of wire pass the wire through the hole and then I can insert the switch So getting a switch in the hole was a pretty tight fit, but I made it I left all the wires pretty long so I can pass them the pre-drilled hole that was done early on in the video and now that all the cables pass through I should have the wiring for the puck light the electrical and also the wiring for the switch and After getting the end table under the headboard I can now install the bolts Now I can fasten all the down and keep everything neat and out of the way before screwing the will into place I actually tested out the leds just to see get the best glow and I found that place in it one inch away From the Edge actually gave me a go that I actually like turns out the led strip was pretty close to of the going around the entire perimeter So I didn’t have to add or cut any off Drew the half inch hole then forced the Connector through the hole I probably could use a different method here because I had a tough keeping the cable flat while it was passing through the hole Since I have a ton of option the receiver would sit in this general area allowing me to pass the Ir receiver Just outside the hole and to keep everything in place I’m just going to apply a ton of hot glue to create a plug that I can plug in the wall I’m going to take an old extension cord cut off the end and I’m going to use that wire so that I can make the connection Since I’m actually hiding the two outlets behind the bed I need to bring some outlets back to the front of the bed, so I’m going to try to keep these hidden as well But the cool thing these outlet Is they actually have a uSb port on them? These outlets are fairly simple to hook up you have a green wire goes the green terminal Ground you have a white wire or in this case.

It’s a yellow wire and that goes to the silver screw Which is your neutral and the next wire you have left over is the black wire that goes to your gold terminal? That’s your hot leg coming in this old extension cord that I have actually have two white legs on it So I need to do a continuity test to figure out which one is the hot leg or the neutral once I find the hot Leg I colored it with a black sharpie So the outlet on the far hand only has one wire at that location this actually has two wires the one that comes from the other outlet and the other one that goes to the wall and Since I’m in the us I’m only going to address the outlet that I’m most familiar with If thinking with electricity is not really your thing what you do is work on a circuit with it unplug or powered off Once you’ve wired it up You can the inexpensive tester like this one to take it your circuit is correct Or is incorrect will also tell you that if you hooked up a wire Backwards or if you have an open ground or hot or even a neutral now? It’s really important that you use a junction box so that nothing gets out of place Now that I’m done with the time to work on the and here.

I’m going to use terminal block now I was planning to explain what I was doing here, but then I realized that after I finished wiring this up It actually looked pretty complicated so I’m going to create a diagram just to give you a basic and Simplified version of what I’m doing here now the reason why I went this route because I to easily disconnect the end table if I needed to move the bed at a later period Because I will be getting rid of this bed at some point So to clarify this area.

I have my power card here this will get plugged in the wall And this will give power to my outlets here I have a transformer that would be powering the leds and also to pluck lights I mean this headboard is really heavy, so I’m really surprised to see how the hand table. Hold is up like a champ After the headboard goes up I won’t be able to get behind it because it’s so massive and so much work I have to do to get there With the headboard being so heavy I used a three inch screw going through the headboard and right into the wall I only have one in the middle But if you want to be extremely safe you can always had three of them one in the middle and two on the head Once you attach the bed frame. It. Ain’t going anywhere to hold the bed frame that yet I’m going to use these thick brackets and the biggest thing about this design is being able to take it back apart And that’s why I designed it the way.

I did because at some . I’m going to get rid of the bed This is just a temporary fix for my room So somebody’s going to get this bed, and I’m going to use to get it out of here by taking it apart in Addition to add in the brackets I was planning to add dowels what a two piece of wood meat But it was so strong decided to go away from that now after in the bracket you can see it interferes with a piece of wood I had So I have to notch that out just so I can get the wood to fit I wanted the support piece to be flush with the top part of the bed frame Using the combination square was a huge help after setting the depth going around I can then take a combination square eliminating the use of a tape measure after a piece along the foot side of the bed Then actually help out when it comes to lining up the center beam because I didn’t have to measure or find what the center was Somehow I forgot to pick up enough corner brackets which I plan add here in the middle But I didn’t want to break away from the project and go pick up any so I use these L brackets and these actually worked Out just fine I just staggered them one on one side one at the bottom and one at the top did the same thing on the opposite side I Only put one full day of work into this project the other days was like in small spurts So actually felt like I was never going to get done with this project until I started adding these support pieces I Add a two screws per connection point that would be at both ends and also in the middle To secure the lip of the bed to the frame I’m going to use some corner brackets on the inside and also on the outside going to the total of four per side Now all I have to do is line up, and then I can move on to screwing it from the inside Well, if you ask me it looks strong enough, and you’re probably wondering what do I do at the end well here? I’m going to use a mending plate And I’m using this plate to attach it from the bottom and this is a perfect situation for that because that keep the two pieces of wood flush with each other Also, added some smaller bracket that was secured a lip from the inside After adding the bracket to the outside this provided the strength that I was looking for now You cannot see this bracket when you look at the bed unless you bend down and look under it But one thing I could’ve did was actually the spray-painting that I would have blend in better now I did take a lot of and maneuvering to get the bed Fine-tune that I have the proper spacing on both sides now all I have to do is attach the bed frame to the headboard Throw the quarter inch plywood on top just throw a few screws in it secure it in place Throw the bed on there, and we’ve done I really had to cut a victory dance out of this one because I just went crazy.

I was so happy this project We’re done. Hope you guys like this one. Hope you like this one And that’s it for this one guys be sure to like subscribe And I love to hear your thoughts on this one if you have any questions, just leave them down in the comments And I’ll get back to you as soon as I can and be sure to follow me on at Diy creators 2015 and I want to give a big shout out and thank you to my friends over on Patreon for supporting the channel if you’re Able, please consider supporting the channel as well, so we can continue to make content like this.

Have a good one guys you .

Vegan California Rolls for Beginners [+ uramaki technique]

Hi guys, Today’s very requested tutorial will be sushi for beginners. The rice on the outside method to be more specific. Now, this isn’t a professional version, just a simple way to do it at home. To make sushi that tastes right, you need the rice to be right. I am using this medium grain rice as it was the closest thing to sushi rice at the the store near me, but if you can get Japanese short-grain rice, it’s even better. First, wash the rice. See how this package says that I don’t have to wash it? Well, LIES! It’s just not as good if you don’t wash it. Just put one cup of rice in the pot and add water.

The water turns milky from the loose starches. Pour most of it away. Then, swish it around some. Add water, and you can see its even milkier looking. Drain that too. Repeat a few times until the water is pretty much clear like this. Drain out the water as best you can. Then add one cup of water. And time to cook the rice. You could use a rice cooker, but if you’re rice cooker-less like I am, you can do it this way.

Put the pot on the stove, cover and wait for the water to boil. This took about 4 minutes for me. You shouldn’t peek like I did. But I can’t help it. I always peek. Now turn down the heat to low. Let it cook for about 25 minutes. In the meantime you can prepare the seasoning. Sushi really just means seasoned rice so this is a super important step. But all you need is rice vinegar, sugar or your favourite sweetener and salt. In a glass, mix one teaspoon of salt, one and a half tablespoons of sugar and 2 to 3 tablespoons of rice vinegar and stir until dissolved. This ratio is just what I prefer; you might want your rice to be a bit more salty, sour or sweet so play with the proportions and find out what you like best. When the rice is done, the grains will be all puffed up and there shouldn’t be any water left in the pot. Fold in the vinegar mixture gently so we don’t squish the rice.

Now we let it cool. The thing about rice that many people don’t know, it that it can go bad if it isn’t cooled fast enough. That’s why I put it in a container like this and spread it out so it can cool more quickly. You can even put it in a cold water or ice bath. I usually just wait until it’s no longer steaming and stick it in the freezer, covered, while I make the fillings. Today we’re making vegan california rolls! Just replacing the crab or polluck with veggie tofu. This deep fried tofu has little bitsies of veggies in it and is pretty tasty on it’s own. It’s also known as q-tofu but be careful as not all brands are vegan. The rest of the ingredients are what you’ll find in a regular cali roll: avocado slices and cucumber matchsticks. I also have some minced scallion greens for extra deliciousness. To roll your sushi, get a few things together. I have my bowl of cooled rice, a bamboo sushi rolling mat, the fillings, a bowl of water to get my hands damp and a towel.

To stop the rice from sticking the the mat, I wrapped it in some plastic wrap. If you prefer not to use plastic wrap, you can also use a sheet of parchment paper as a barrier though it will be a bit trickier. I used plastic today as I thought it would be easier to show you the technique. Grab a sheet of nori and fold it in half across the long side. Then it’ll be a cinch to tear into two. Lay the nori with the textured side up, wet your hands lightly and grab a handful of rice. Spread it on the nori gently. If the rice starts sticking, just wet your hands a bit more. Just try to cover it evenly but don’t lay it on too thick. Even this is a bit too thick. And just for fun, I’m sprinkling some sesame seeds on top. Now, press down the rice firmly. You can use a spatula or just your damp hands. Now flip the nori over and it’s time for the filling.

Lay the fillings in the middle evenly. About this much. Too much and it won’t roll properly. Use the mat to roll the side closest to you, over the fillings and tucking in the other side. Squeeze gently, then release and keep rolling. When it’s rolled all the way, give it a firm squeeze along the length, try to be as even as possible. Then voila! Sushi roll! I find it’s easiest to cut after the rolls have rested for a few minutes so repeat until you’ve used up your ingredients. Then for the tricky part.

Cutting the sushi into maki. The best thing to use is a very sharp knife that has been moistened a little. My knives aren’t the sharpest so the best one for me is this small serrated knife. Which ever knife you use, hold the sushi firmly while cutting, don’t press down too much, just cut back and forth and like the knife do the work for you. I’m also cutting them not too thinly. Bigger pieces hold together better but they should be small enough for you to eat in one bite. And that’s it! Serve with soy sauce and wasabi if you like. And eat! Vegan sushi is so easy to make and can be so healthy as well. Please check out the links in the description for more vegan sushi suggestions. Be creative and use what you have on hand. As always thanks so much for watching this video. To find out what I’m working on during the week, follow me on Twitter or Instagram! Bye for now! .