How to Use a Raw Egg to Determine if Your Mattress is Awful – Purple Mattress

What’s a super easy way to tell if your bed is awful? The egg test. Let me prove it. When it comes to mattresses, you used to have only 3 choices. Looking for some shoulder pain? Try a hard mattress. It may feel like a rock, and put pressure on your hips, but it’s the perfect way to tell your partner, “Hey baby, want some arthritis?” It just fails the raw egg test. Then there’s the soft mattress.

It starts out ok, but collapses over time, like some cheap sneakers, or Anakin Skywalker. And since it comes without back support, you get to try cool new hobbies, like chronic pain. But it also fails the raw egg test. Now let me explain the eggs. The raw egg test states that the perfect bed will let you put weight on raw eggs without breaking them. ‘Cause if a bed can cradle raw eggs while supporting all that weight, it’ll also cradle your pressure points while supporting your body, for maximum comfort. Well if the hard bed’s bad at cradling, and the soft bed’s bad at supporting, at least the medium bed is juuuuust… Terrible. It’s not firm enough for back support or soft enough for your pressure points, so in the end it’s just a sad middle ground, like limbo, or a whoosy centaur. It’s average. No one wants average. Now, to get around that… some beds come with $5,000 dollar remotes so you can choose between hard bed problems or soft bed problems. They’re so high-tech, they fail the egg test twice.

I don’t need a bed that’s hard, soft, or average. I need the best of firm and soft, without the drawbacks. Introducing Purple — the only mattress that cradles your pressure points like a soft bed, while supporting everywhere else like a firm one. Need proof? Lets check double check. Triple check. All the checks! And I am really heavy for a little girl from a fairytale. Yes, these raw eggs are raw. And no, we didn’t fake it. How lame would that be? You’re lame for thinking that. How can a bed be this comfortable? Maybe ‘cause it has 15 patents, was created by an actual rocket scientist, and uses a comfort grid system to distribute weight across any body type, giving you the best sleep you’ve ever had, guaranteed. Thanks, science. Now, there’s a catch. Most high-end mattresses cost 5,000 dollars. But ours is only 1,000. We’re sorry about that. We’re the best. But you can spend that extra money on, I don’t know… AN ADORABLE BABY BEAR?!?! AUGH!! But don’t let it on the mattress though, it will pee all over it. And while you’re saving money, you’ll save time too- ‘Cause we’re shipping the Purple right to your door for free.

Thankyou! Now I have two! We’re so convinced you’ll love Purple — if it doesn’t change your life in the first 100 nights, we’ll take it back for a complete refund. That’s Purple’s no pressure guarantee. I love you. So if you or someone you know sleeps, click here to buy your Purple at onpurple.com And say goodbye to the rock hard prison bed. The saggy swamp bed. The average bed. And the expensive remote. Get yourself into a Purple. And Mom and Pop, it’s not the 1940s. Share a bed already. And make sure it’s a Purple.

Becuase you guys have been sleeping in garbage. Click now to start your 100 night trial of nocturnal bliss. No pressure. It’s Purple. Action Need proof. Lift glass See those are real eggs not hardboiled not plastic not wooden I just burst them cut. That’s a cut! .

DIY Platform Bed With Floating Night Stands (Plans Available)

Picture yourself walking into your room and absorbing the feeling of accomplishment This is the feeling I get when I walk in this space Let me take a few seconds to give you the detail on this build the majority of this platform bed was made entirely from 8-Inch lumber from Your local hardware store featuring two floating nightstand with the idea of saving space and not jeopardizing Functionality the next only has a place to store your lamp but on the inside I also have a place to store a book and IPad and anything that you want within arm’s reach and also let’s not forget the electrical outlet providing you two ports to charge your lamp Or any device and one of my most important features of this build is the on and off switch That control the undermount led puck lights and with the added lights these gives off a luxury feel within the space and with the whopping 116 inch headboard back with Led strips to set the mood in your space Hey, what’s up guys? I’m going with Diy creators and today I’m going to making a modern platform bag for the bedroom actually be getting a ton of requests to make a bed and actually we Do the bed so you know I like like you know? I love leds, and I’ve had to find a way to incorporate them and with this build This is basically a temporary bed for me and what I mean by that is there’s a lot of work I need to do in this room gotta paint the wall.

I replaced the floors a lot of things I want to do and this bed is not what I had in my dream bedroom But it’s a space right now And it should for the time being actually like the way this one came and hopefully you guys are in this one, so if you check out in the video description You should see all the information about the bed how much it costs and other details about it? So if you have any question you can check there you can just ask me any comments And I’ll get back to you and with that being said let’s do it For this project you do not need a ton of tools But there’s a ton of cutting and I would totally recommend a miter saw if you don’t have one. Maybe you can borrow one you can rent from your local hardware store your next option would using a circular saw and You’d probably want to use a jig to cut those just so you have some consistency I do have a jig that I made a while back So you can check that out or you can check out into one of the circular saw cutting guides And that should help you along with this project There’s a ton of cutting with this project and majority of it is all repetitive So I’m just going to make all my cuts and then you can see here’s all the finishing pieces that I’ve cut down to size And now that everything is cut I can now move on to sanding Now you only need one sander for this project, but since I had the luxury of having two of them I decided to put both them to use I used one with 80 grit sandpaper on it and then I use the other one with 120 grit Sandpaper on it now keep in .

If you have a thickness planer, and this is probably the time to use it That is number come pretty rough So there’s a ton of work prepping them and smoothing them out and I do this process over and over again And then I finally finish sanding them off with 120 grit sandpaper I’m not sure how well this works, but I was doing everything in my power to speed up the process for the bed frame I’m going to use a glossy latex black paint so applied paint I’m using a foam roller and this gave me the best chance of getting a good finish without putting out a paint sprayer For the backing on the headboard I use plywood and those gonna come in 8-foot section So the thing is I need to extend those and I use plywood Glue and also pocket hole screws just to extend it to the width that I need The bed Frame is painted black and to keep a consistent look I painted the bottom part of the headboard as well So that it blends in at this point the plywood is pretty heavy on its own, but more and more add foot on it It’s going to get heavy in heavier each time so it’s important secure the plywood in place as you the pieces Of course having a helping hand with total make your job a whole lot easier But if you don’t have the luxury of that the clamps work, just fine After adding all the lumber the headboard became extremely heavy if I had to guess it was probably between 300 and 400 pounds Being that I’m so close to the edge is best to pre-drill so that I don’t split the lumber So secure the lumber to the plywood I add a two screw per board approximately every 24 inches Due to the size of the headboard your eyes will be drawn it more than anything else on the bed So in this case Doujin design the way you like Maybe you want to carry the wood across the entire width of the plywood in this case for me I wanted to see that line going back and forth I wanted that stagger look I just continue the same step over and over until I get to the last row For the finish I use a dark walnut danish all apply with the rag now if you like the color darker You can always add more and more layers, but I was pretty satisfied with the tone of this one now Let’s move the focus over to the floating Nightstand each Nightstand will have the same set up make life a little easy I’m going to cut out the junction box opening so that we can install those later on Using a Jigsaw will make quick work of removing this section if you don’t have a jigsaw you can always drill a bunch of holes And then chisel out the rest if you feel like you like a challenge And you want to do this by hand you can always use a coping saw go this route.

It’s a lot of work, but it’s still an option To assemble the Nightstand I’m going to use dowels Now dowels can be frustrated in the work with because you have to be pinpoint on to make sure everything line up You should mark both pieces of wood at the same time that way you have a reference when you use the dowel jig This dowel jig by Rockler actually have a center line them it you place the center line on the marking You’ll be more than likely to get a straight hole drilled Before applying glue.

It’s always best to test to make sure everything fits. Well as a reminder mark both pieces the same so I know which to go together to ensure that my Accuracy was on I just marked drilled mark drilled And I did the same thing all the way around for each side on each box wasn’t sure about a quarter inch dowels, so decided to beef those up with and This pretty self-explanatory I’m just going to add a ton of glue in the hole on the joints and also on top of the dowels as well And after this part is done. It’s time to bring out the clamps once the glue dries That’s what the majority of the strength comes from so you want to be sure that you clamp this down as tight as possible If you don’t build often enough and don’t further need to own clamps which you could do is use screws and Wood glue at the Joints Then use wood filler to cover the screw heads My intention is to have the end table an inch or two inch lower than the top of the bed next going to measure And mark the inside of the end table Then I’m going to drill a few pilot holes going all the way through the headboard just to mark the backside of the end table I want this switch to be somewhat hidden But also in the location that I can get to it easily and this switch is meant to turn on the puck light that’s going To be below the end table the light that I plan put here comes in a kit And it also has a tail on it, so what I’m going to do to keep the your hidden I’m going to drill up, but at an angle so the way you come out through the back so at this point It’s a good idea to just mark everything while the end table is in place even though outlet and with the end table removed I Can now drill all the holes out for the bolts to pass through the last bolt? I just drew actually fell into the opening of the outlet so I had to redo that one The NCA was meant to be removable this way you can remove it and move the headboard around that will notice I have tape on My drill bit as an indicator so that I didn’t exit out the other side of the table This is the location that I plan to put the on and off switch for the puck legs Since I can’t get my drill to drilling from the inside I’m going to attach a piece of wood and drill in from the backside and this way I can avoid any major tear outs I drew the 3/4 hole, but it seems like it’s a tight fit So I just have to wobble out the hole just a little bit to accept the switch after and applying the Danish oil as I did previously now going to add wipe-on poly urethane as a top coat for this finish after applying the first coat of polyurethane And then went back with a 400 grit sandpaper sand that down then I applied one more coat onto it You can do it a third time to get it even better finish, but I was happy with a second coat Since I wanted to achieve the glowing effect behind the headboard I decided to add some Strips of wood going around and this would serve a couple of things one is a resting area for the leds sit But also help kicks the bed off the wall So when I plug the power cord in it doesn’t interfere with the headboard not I have the headboard in the room I’m going to add the electrical wire and that’s going to go from one outlet to other outlet Here’s the puck that I shown previously in the video I’m just going to cut the plastic Connector off of it Pass the wire through that was drilled and then screw the light into place These led puck light comes in a kit, and I really like the low profile of them and I have links to these down in the video description, you have the on off switch for these I’m going to use some spade Connectors which are called push on Connectors or many different names ? Terminated those to a piece of wire pass the wire through the hole and then I can insert the switch So getting a switch in the hole was a pretty tight fit, but I made it I left all the wires pretty long so I can pass them the pre-drilled hole that was done early on in the video and now that all the cables pass through I should have the wiring for the puck light the electrical and also the wiring for the switch and After getting the end table under the headboard I can now install the bolts Now I can fasten all the down and keep everything neat and out of the way before screwing the will into place I actually tested out the leds just to see get the best glow and I found that place in it one inch away From the Edge actually gave me a go that I actually like turns out the led strip was pretty close to of the going around the entire perimeter So I didn’t have to add or cut any off Drew the half inch hole then forced the Connector through the hole I probably could use a different method here because I had a tough keeping the cable flat while it was passing through the hole Since I have a ton of option the receiver would sit in this general area allowing me to pass the Ir receiver Just outside the hole and to keep everything in place I’m just going to apply a ton of hot glue to create a plug that I can plug in the wall I’m going to take an old extension cord cut off the end and I’m going to use that wire so that I can make the connection Since I’m actually hiding the two outlets behind the bed I need to bring some outlets back to the front of the bed, so I’m going to try to keep these hidden as well But the cool thing these outlet Is they actually have a uSb port on them? These outlets are fairly simple to hook up you have a green wire goes the green terminal Ground you have a white wire or in this case.

It’s a yellow wire and that goes to the silver screw Which is your neutral and the next wire you have left over is the black wire that goes to your gold terminal? That’s your hot leg coming in this old extension cord that I have actually have two white legs on it So I need to do a continuity test to figure out which one is the hot leg or the neutral once I find the hot Leg I colored it with a black sharpie So the outlet on the far hand only has one wire at that location this actually has two wires the one that comes from the other outlet and the other one that goes to the wall and Since I’m in the us I’m only going to address the outlet that I’m most familiar with If thinking with electricity is not really your thing what you do is work on a circuit with it unplug or powered off Once you’ve wired it up You can the inexpensive tester like this one to take it your circuit is correct Or is incorrect will also tell you that if you hooked up a wire Backwards or if you have an open ground or hot or even a neutral now? It’s really important that you use a junction box so that nothing gets out of place Now that I’m done with the time to work on the and here.

I’m going to use terminal block now I was planning to explain what I was doing here, but then I realized that after I finished wiring this up It actually looked pretty complicated so I’m going to create a diagram just to give you a basic and Simplified version of what I’m doing here now the reason why I went this route because I to easily disconnect the end table if I needed to move the bed at a later period Because I will be getting rid of this bed at some point So to clarify this area.

I have my power card here this will get plugged in the wall And this will give power to my outlets here I have a transformer that would be powering the leds and also to pluck lights I mean this headboard is really heavy, so I’m really surprised to see how the hand table. Hold is up like a champ After the headboard goes up I won’t be able to get behind it because it’s so massive and so much work I have to do to get there With the headboard being so heavy I used a three inch screw going through the headboard and right into the wall I only have one in the middle But if you want to be extremely safe you can always had three of them one in the middle and two on the head Once you attach the bed frame. It. Ain’t going anywhere to hold the bed frame that yet I’m going to use these thick brackets and the biggest thing about this design is being able to take it back apart And that’s why I designed it the way.

I did because at some . I’m going to get rid of the bed This is just a temporary fix for my room So somebody’s going to get this bed, and I’m going to use to get it out of here by taking it apart in Addition to add in the brackets I was planning to add dowels what a two piece of wood meat But it was so strong decided to go away from that now after in the bracket you can see it interferes with a piece of wood I had So I have to notch that out just so I can get the wood to fit I wanted the support piece to be flush with the top part of the bed frame Using the combination square was a huge help after setting the depth going around I can then take a combination square eliminating the use of a tape measure after a piece along the foot side of the bed Then actually help out when it comes to lining up the center beam because I didn’t have to measure or find what the center was Somehow I forgot to pick up enough corner brackets which I plan add here in the middle But I didn’t want to break away from the project and go pick up any so I use these L brackets and these actually worked Out just fine I just staggered them one on one side one at the bottom and one at the top did the same thing on the opposite side I Only put one full day of work into this project the other days was like in small spurts So actually felt like I was never going to get done with this project until I started adding these support pieces I Add a two screws per connection point that would be at both ends and also in the middle To secure the lip of the bed to the frame I’m going to use some corner brackets on the inside and also on the outside going to the total of four per side Now all I have to do is line up, and then I can move on to screwing it from the inside Well, if you ask me it looks strong enough, and you’re probably wondering what do I do at the end well here? I’m going to use a mending plate And I’m using this plate to attach it from the bottom and this is a perfect situation for that because that keep the two pieces of wood flush with each other Also, added some smaller bracket that was secured a lip from the inside After adding the bracket to the outside this provided the strength that I was looking for now You cannot see this bracket when you look at the bed unless you bend down and look under it But one thing I could’ve did was actually the spray-painting that I would have blend in better now I did take a lot of and maneuvering to get the bed Fine-tune that I have the proper spacing on both sides now all I have to do is attach the bed frame to the headboard Throw the quarter inch plywood on top just throw a few screws in it secure it in place Throw the bed on there, and we’ve done I really had to cut a victory dance out of this one because I just went crazy.

I was so happy this project We’re done. Hope you guys like this one. Hope you like this one And that’s it for this one guys be sure to like subscribe And I love to hear your thoughts on this one if you have any questions, just leave them down in the comments And I’ll get back to you as soon as I can and be sure to follow me on at Diy creators 2015 and I want to give a big shout out and thank you to my friends over on Patreon for supporting the channel if you’re Able, please consider supporting the channel as well, so we can continue to make content like this.

Have a good one guys you .

How to make a plywood Tatami Bed

Welcome back! Today I’m going to make a Japanese-style bed. These beds are lower than western ones, with the mattress embedded in a wooden frame. I’ve tried to come up with a design that would be easy to make using plywood, although other kinds of wooden sheets could also be used. Besides, this design is easy to assemble and disassemble, quite convenient if we want to move. I’ve designed two types of bed. This one is meant to be adapted to a common metal bed frame which you can find in any store. As you can see, the bed frame rests on these four corners which, in turn, join all the pieces. The other bed design is of the same size. However, for this design we’ll use a homemade plywood frame. In this video I’ll show you how I made the first of the two models, although both beds have similar makes.

By changing the length of some pieces we can adapt this design to any bed size. Now let’s take a look at how I made it. This time around, in order to save time I’ve ordered some pre-cut pieces from the same warehouse where I bought the board, since the parts are quite large. I’ll start by cutting these pieces at an angle. They’ll be used to make the headboard thicker. I’ll also machine this rebate to work around the floor plinth. I’ll also glue these pieces together, onto which I will later screw the bed side rails. Now I glue the three upper side rails together to make them thicker. I machine these pieces like this and put them in place with glue.

I sand these parts now that it’s easier and screw the bed side rails in like this. Now I can start assembling the bed. I cut these two pieces in half to make four supports for the bed frame. First I screw this one onto the side rails, keeping it 1mm away from the edge. I remove the piece and then screw it onto the headboard. This way, when screwing it back on, the screws will put pressure and the joint between the side rail and the headboard will be tighter. I’ll use the same system for the back. I’ve numbered all the corners to make future assemblies easier. With these last screws I finish putting the bed together. Now it’s time to set up the nightstands. I glue these parts together and add a little salt to stop them from moving due to the glue’s viscosity. Once the glue is dry, I sand the inner part now that it’s easier and continue assembling the nightstands.

I finish sanding all the pieces that make up the bed and apply three coats of satin water-based varnish. I’m going to put everything back together at the workshop to see what the finished bed looks like. I love how the edge of the plywood looks. Of course, we could apply some dye to change the color, but I like the natural look of birch wood. .

Side Sleeping Will Never Be the Same. #purple

Hi, I’m Goldilocks. What’s a scientific way to tell that your bed is terrible for side sleeping? I give you: The Side Sleeper Test This is Terry, an actual purple scientist. And these are the three bears And because this is a mattress commercial Here’s an attractive model! When sleeping on your side, the best spinal alignment is straight. If your spine is bending, it’s straining. And with 8 hours in that position Just make sure you befriend a chiropractor, like ASAP. Let’s observe the spine curvature of the attractive model on different beds. Remember a straight spine is the goal. First, the flat bare ground Ouch! $3,500 Memory Foam mattress No thank you! Pillow Top bed Uh Uh $5000 Air Bed: Hard Setting Soft Setting If spines could talk (scream) Leading Bed in a Box Now, watch the difference with Purple… …A Straight Spine Purple cradles your pressure points while supporting everywhere else, Keeping your spine straight Now you can sleep as comfortably as a distinguished scientist in a fluffy bed of bears. So if you love your sleep AND your spine, Click above to buy your Purple bed at OnPurple.com.

No pressure, it’s Purple .