Floor Moisture Barrier – When Do I Need It?

On a concrete subfloor, if your product has pad attached already, you still need a Moisture Barrier, a painter’s plastic, a Visqueen plastic, a product similar to that. It’s a very, very thin 6 mil. product. We sell a product that comes in rolls of 150 feet. That’s all you MUST have when you’re on a concrete subfloor, and your product has pad attached. Now you could also purchase our 2mm foam that has a moisture barrier attached. That will give you 2 milimeters more foam, obviously. That gives you more comfort when you walk, and gives it a more quiet walk. So either way, you either have to have plastic, or a foam with a plastic. When your product has no pad attached, and you are installing over a concrete subfloor, you must have the pad, and you must have the moisture barrier. If you’re going over concrete, and you have no pad attached, this is the bare minimum of what you must have.

If you have pad attached to your laminate, this plastic film is your bare minimum, and that is sold separately, or you can upgrade to this product. Like I said, a little bit more comfort when you walk, a little bit more sound killing, and a little bit warmer. Your options for laminate are without pad, or with pad. And then depending on your subfloor, that’s the key element here, determines what else you may or may not need, whether you just need a plastic, whether you need a foam with a plastic, or the sound killing felt with a plastic.

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Kerf Bending Plywood – DIY Ottoman Table Build

The problem: Ottomans take up space, no room for coffee table. Ripping 16″ section off birch plywood panel. Marking the center to find where the corners will be. Seven kerfs spaced 1/4″ apart. Raising blade to leave just 1/8″ of material. Scariest part! Running the plywood to cut the kerf. Phew! Cutting the rest of the kerfs. Test bend. Set depth of circular saw to almost bite through. Plunge cut. These create space for hidden splines. Test bend. Scrap hardwood ripped to fit in the circular saw kerf. Cutting out splines. Ready for the glue up! Apply a lot of glue! Clamp and check for square. Insert splines and let dry for a few days. Old desk leg, apply adhesive and sandpaper. Perfect for cleaning up the inside curves. Fill any left over voids. Sand smooth. Not bad! Placing together leaves a void.

Let’s fix it! Marking so it will be flush with the flat surfaces. Cut out on the bandsaw. Round edges on disc sander. Creating the center strip. Setting blade to cut 15° Slicing one side. Flip and slice other side. I went as far as needed, killed the table saw and took out the piece rather than run it entirely through unsafely. That’ll do. Marking out the profile for a lap joint. Cutting out on the bandsaw. Gluing in place. Apply polyurethane. Line inside with a slippery material. Trim flush with razor blade. It fits! This one fits too! Move two together to add the flush insert. Glamor shots. .