How to Dye Fabric: Rit All-Purpose Dye

With rit all-purpose Dye you can dye fabrics containing natural fibers like Cotton linen wool or silk and also Rayon and Nylon I’m going to dye samples of a bunch of different fabrics and see what happens. Pre-Wash the fabric to remove any finishes, so the dye will absorb better. Use enough water so the fabric can move around freely The hotter the water the better, so use really hot tap water or heat the water until it’s almost boiling. From here you can use the stove top method where you keep the dye bath on a low simmer throughout which will get the darkest richest colors or you can dye in a container or a stainless steel sink. I’m dyeing the samples in two batches because some of the fabric like salt added and some likes vinegar instead.

Shake the Dye well and add it to the water. as a general guideline for every pound of fabric use half a bottle of liquid dye or one package of powdered dye in three gallons of water To get dark or saturated colors double the amount of dye. I’m using half a cup and each to get a very saturated purple Add salt to the dye bath for Cotton linen and Rayon fabrics or add vinegar for silk wool and Nylon fabrics I’m adding about half a cup of each, but add more for larger projects Stir well Put the wet fabric in the dye bath. In the salt dye bath, I’m putting in bleached and unbleached Muslin 100% Cotton broadcloth and two different poly cotton blends Natural canvas Cotton Jersey Scrim Chintz Irish Linen Rayon Challis Natural burlap white Sultana Burlap and Polyester Gabardine In the Vinegar Dye bath, I’m putting in silk Chiffon silk Organza silk habutae silk Shantung 100% wool felt Rayon Wool Blend felt coated Nylon Oxford fabric Nylon stretch lace Nylon Crystal Organza and Nylon Glitz Sequins Stir continuously for anywhere between 15 minutes to an hour Take it out sooner for lighter colors or leave it in longer for Darker colors Make sure the dye is getting to all parts of the fabric.

So it won’t be splotchy here’s a couple tips for Dyeing: Wear gloves whenever handling the Dye and cover any surfaces that need protection before starting Dryclean only and fabrics that can’t withstand heat shouldn’t be dyed, but if you want to try test out a small piece first Keep in mind that most clothing is made of polyester thread which won’t die with rit all-purpose die Dyeing white fabrics has the best results you can dye other colors, but the original color may affect the outcome You can use rich color remover first to get rid of as much color as possible Remove the fabric from the dye bath when it reaches your desired color keep in mind Fabric looks Darker when wet We suggest using Rit Colorstay fixative before rinsing to increase color retention and reduce bleeding For small projects you can spray the fixative directly on the fabric until saturated or for larger items mix it in a water bath According to the instructions on the bottle.

Let it sit for 20 minutes Rinse the Fabric with warm water, then cooler water until it runs clear And finally hand wash or machine wash with warm water and air dry or tumble dry with an old towel. .

Beekeeping for Beginners — Hive Set Up

Hi Im Tricia, an organic gardener. I grow organically for a healthy and safe food supply, for a clean and sustainable environment, for an enjoyable and rewarding experience. Increase the yields from your fruit trees and your vegetable garden and reap the sweet reward of honey by setting up a beehive in your own backyard. Today we’re gonna review what equipment you need and how to setup your hive.

First we need to select a dry level location that we can access year round. Ideally you’ll face the hive entrance towards the southern exposure. The bees will fly straight out of the entrance so make sure it’s not facing directly into a sidewalk, the neighbor’s yard, or your own family or pets play area. You can set up your hive to face a hedge or fence and the bees will quickly learn to fly up and over the barrier keeping them out of your hair, literally. Be aware of any pests in your neighborhood and plan accordingly.

For example, if you have bears in the area install an electric fence preemptively to keep them from getting a taste of the honey because once they get one taste they may just charge through an electric fence in the future. If you have skunks in the area build a stand for your hive to sit on that’s at least eighteen inches tall. What happens is the skunks at night will rile up the bees, then wait for them to fly out of the hive and eat them like candy. You can set up your hive either directly on the ground or on a flat surface like this pallet. This redwood hive stand will resist rot. This is a solid bottom board it helps keep the bottom of the hive secure. There also screened bottom boards that can help with monitoring pasts such as mites. This entrance reducer fits snugly into the bottom board and is useful while the colony establishes itself and does the trick for keeping mice out of the hive.

Once you see an increasing amount of bee traffic you can rotate the entrance reducer to the larger entrance or remove it all together. Depending on the weather and the availability of pollen when you get your new bees you may want to install a feeder. This will encourage the new colony to draw comb quickly so the queen can lay eggs and the workers can store pollen. If you want to use the entrance reducer and the feeder at the same time your going to need to cut your entrance reducer to size. The entrance feeder is great because you can add the sugar syrup without having to open the hive. The sugar syrup is just a combination of one to one ratio of organic sugar and hot water, let it cool before feeding the bees. Next up are the two brood chambers, these nine and five eighths inch boxes are gonna be the core of your bees home. Within these two boxes the queen will lay eggs which will turn into larvae, pupae and immature bees all of which are referred as brood, hence the name, brood chambers, or brood box.

These two brood boxes are where the bees will store their food to survive the winter. A beekeeper will inspect the chambers to be sure that they’re healthy but you don’t want to steal the honey from these bottom two chambers if you want your bees to survive the winter. Once the bees have filled up these boxes to about eighty five percent with brood and honey and that’ll take about six to twelve months then you can add an addition.

In order to keep the queen in the brood chambers lay a queen excluder on top of the brood chambers. The queen is much larger than the worker bees therefore she cannot fit through these narrow gaps but the workers can. Now for the sweet part, these are the honey supers and these are six and five eighths inch pine boxes that you’re gonna add to the top of your chambers. Add one of these additions at a time to your beehive. Once your super is about fifty percent full of honey you can add another one. You’ll notice that i’m setting up an eight frame hive today. This means that there’s eight of these wooden frames that the bees will draw their honeycomb onto in each box. Commercial apiaries will generally use a ten frame super but those can be very heavy up to about sixty pounds and for the home beekeeper you want it a little bit more manageable when you take your super inside the house to harvest the honey. the inner cover is set on top of the last super it has a hole for ventilation and provides insulation from extreme heat and cold.

And at last the cover which will provide protection from rain and snow and in this case it will add a decorative feature to the garden. Optionally you can secure your hive with tie downs or straps. This pine hive is beautiful and if you want it to retain its function and appearance it’s important to paint it before the bees arrive. I’m going to paint mine with this natural non-toxic poly whey clear varnish, but you can use latex on the outside. I’m starting with two hives and to make painting easier I’ve stacked all the boxes.

One of the best tips for beginners is to start with two bee hives like i’m doing today so that you can compare and contrast them over time helping you to better understand what normal looks like. Since bees can differentiate between colors have some fun and paint your hives different colors if you wish, and you’ll help your new bees better find their way home.

Now that everything is dry my hives are ready for the bees. I’m using the redwood base, the solid bottom board, the entrance reducer, two brood boxes, the inner cover, and the roof. I’m going to store the two supers and the queen excluder until i need them. So be a beekeeper and grow organic for life! .

Easy DIY Baby Blanket Sewing Tutorial

Hi, I’m Jen from Online Fabric Store. Making a baby blanket is fun because you get to choose prints and colors you like. The blanket I’m going to make is quick and easy. So let’s get started. The materials you’ll need are: 1 yard of minky, I’m using Gray Minky Dot fabric, 1 yard of cotton, I’m using Michael Miller Zoology Sea fabric, fabric scissors, a fabric marker, a ruler, ballpoint pins, and thread. Measure a 36 by 36 inch square out of the cotton and minky fabrics. Make sure you’re measuring on the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out both squares. Place the wrong side of the minky fabric on the table. Center the cotton fabric over the minky with the right side facing up. Fold the edges over 1 inch twice on all four sides and pin. For the corners, snip the extra fabric off at an angle before folding. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance along the fold line.

Back stitch at the beginning and the end. To keep the corners down, stitch along the outside edge. The baby blanket is now complete. By folding the edges over it gives the blanket a border and creates a finished look. You can use either side of this blanket. Thanks for watching this OFS project. .