How to Build a Pergola Attached to Your House | Mitre 10 Easy As

A pergola that’s attached to your house can be a great addition it’s a good way to create a useful sheltered outdoor area and give you shade from the Sun it’ll also add to the visual appeal of your house with a bit of initial planning and prep building one yourself isn’t as hard as what you might think I’ll take you through the job step-by-step so you can do it yourself before you start there are a few important things that you need to know while you don’t actually need a building permit you will have to adhere to the building regulations so you’ll need to get a licensed building practitioner or LBP to help design it for you this will help you make sure that you’re doing it right and that you’re using the correct materials when designing the structure with your LBP there are a few things you should just keep in mind you want to make sure it’s high enough so the beam doesn’t obscure your view from inside you want to build it so it’s keeping with the overall style of your house and if you think you might want to put a roof on your pergola then it’ll need to be under 20 square meters and you’ll want to design it with a fall so that water can run off it right here’s the plan I’ve had drawn up by my LBP it’s got all the measurements I need and it tells me exactly what materials I need to order so all you need to do is take this into might of ten and the guys in the drive through will help you out with selecting the right materials and a trailer or delivery if you need now as per our plan our first post is going to be face fixed to the outside of the house here and it’s going to be inline with a corner now our second post will be on the outside of these steps and our third post there’s going to be right on the outside in line with the corner of the house so the first thing I need to do is get a parallel line from the house to the corner and put that mark down here so I know exactly where this post is going right so we’re just going to but the tape tied up against that weather border under the doorstep and we’ve got 2142 our quarter box I’m going to take that twenty-one woody measure that off their house for our end post okay there’s our 21:40 that’s to the outside of the post now if you’re in the situation where your pergola came to the end of your deck you could just put your post on the outside so you’re just digging straight into the earth but in this situation obviously we’ve got to remove a few dicking boards so we can dig a hole underneath the deck now this is just the rough guide at the stage where our post is going to be situated I will run a string line down the side of the house so I can get that pin pointed exactly correct so the next thing we need to do is remove some of the sticking board so we can actually start digging the hole where our post is going to go now a great little tool for pulling out the nails of these little dog bars absolutely brilliant take care when you’re removing your decking boards because you could reuse them these ones are badly split so I’ll be replacing them okay so I’m going to mark my 21 40 back on our joist here now I still need to get exact position this way and line with the house but I still know that my post hole is going to be about here so what I can do is start digging that hole and wind my post goes in or getting an exact position of it with a string line a little bit later on down the track now I’ve dug our hole nice and deep as per the specifications on the plan and also I’ll put a block of concrete on the bottom of here just so I’ve got nice and solid bearing for our posts to sit on now I’ve also run a string line down the side of the house parallel with the house I’ve run a string line a hundred millimetres from the side of the house this avoids any uneven surfaces on the side of the house that means that the distance from the string line to the corner is 63 millimeters now I want to be sixty three millimeters away from the line that’s up to the corner of our house so as you can see 63 millimeters that’s where our post is going to sit so we’ve got a joist in the way there’s nothing I can do about that I’m just going to clamp my post to the side of the Joyce and later on down the track I’ll show you how we compensate for that so now is the time put an outpost brace it up and put some concrete in now I’m just going to use this little clamp to hold that in position now I’ve just lined up my post without mark on our joist all I need to do now is plumb the post up and put a brace down now these posts that I am using are glue laminated and the h5 treated that way it’s not going to twist of water the best type of posts you can possibly use when you’re building up gola or a veranda I’ll just pull that clomp cool now that’s looking pretty good all I’ve got to do now is fix the end of my brace and then put some concrete in the hole okay just before I throw them a concrete in I want to get rid of my clamp to get that out of the way so I’m just going to screw off the post to our joist that’s going to be permanent from now on now I’ve got a pretty long post so what I want to do is just throw another support going back the other way and let’s just make sure that’s nice and plump cramp it off and then we’re good for our concrete you need to have at least 600 millimeters deep of concrete to secure your post rightio that’s looking pretty good now all I got to do is exactly the same for the other post let it sit for 24 hours and then we’re good to go to determine the position of the middle post I’ve run a string line from the corner of the house to the corner post radio I’ve let my two posts set in concrete for 24 hours now I’ve got one more post to attach but I don’t actually want to fix that to the house at this point because I want to chop the post off at exactly the right height now to get that height I first have to establish exactly where our ribbon plate is going to be attached to the house as per the plan the bottom of the ribbon plate needs to be 26 80 millimetres from the dig okay now this is just an example of what our Reuben plate is going to look like it’s going to be attached to the face of the weather boards like this now I have a couple of Packers that I’m going to attach behind the ribbon plate that’s to allow for any water to run down if it ever should get in there now this is also an example of what our rebate is going to look like now the rebate is safe we can have our rough to sit it and then quite nice and tidy like that what I need to do next is get a length of our ribbon plate now as for the dimensions on the plan it says it’s 2682 the underside of my ribbon plate so what I’m going to do is just put a nail in the weather boards at that height then I can use this nail to hook the tape on to get the length of our ribbon plate okay so that’s 5753 right the next thing I need to do is just make a level line on our weather boards to indicate the exact location on the bottom of the ribbon plate okay the next thing I need to do is establish exactly where our studs are now to do that is a couple of things you want to look out for the main thing is exactly where our nailing is so you can sort of see a little bit of paint cracking on the weather board that there indicates exactly where our stutters so we want to be looking out for the old nail lines and then just above our mark we want to put the center of our stud okay now it is important that we locate exactly where all the studs are because these are going to be our solid fixing points for when we put our Coach screws through the ribbon plate into the house rightio the next thing I need to do is just measure out exactly where all those marks are and I’m just going to write it on the weather board all these marks will be hidden by a ribbon plate I’ve marked the measurements of all the studs on the weather boards now it’s time to transfer them to the ribbon plate three three nine eight four nine ten the plan shows seven rafters for this pergola that’s a total of six spaces between them the overall length of the ribbon plate is five seven five three millimeters I’ve divided that by six and that’s given me a measurement of nine hundred and fifty nine millimeters Center to Center so nine fifty-nine is from the center of one rafter to the center of the next which is what we’re going to mark out now so now we’re just going to mark out the thickness of our rafter onto our ribbon plate so my rafter is 42 millimeters thick so I just want to divide that by two so I go 1/2 on either side of the line so that’s 21 millimeters either side of the center will just square that off so that’s one side there’s the center and then we’ll just use it the actual thickness of our rafter and put that on there and we’re just going to rebate that out later so we’re just going to do the same for all of our marks righty-o now I’m just about ready to rebait out my Ribbon plate so I’ve set my saw blade to about ten millimeters so I’m going to take a 10 mil rebate out of my ribbon now just before I rebate out I’m just going to use the side of my square with the side of a circular saw that’ll help me and give a nice straight line to make sure I’m up against my marks nice and tight I’m cutting a series of fins into the timber which I then simply remove with a chisel right now this looking lovely now we just want to do exactly the same for all the others now the most conventional way of attaching our rafters to our ribbon plate is just the face fix like this now the reason I’ve decided to rebait out our ribbon plate it’s just going to give me a stronger joint it’s going to stop all our rafters from twisting and also if you’ll get any sort of moving whatsoever in the house or the pergola that all that would do is open that up now our rebate is going to hide any sort of movement whatsoever now regardless whether you face fix or your rebate out your ribbon plate we’re still going to have to have a mechanical fixing now what I mean by mechanical fixing is something like a joist hanger or a multi group bracket sitting on the side there now that’s going to hold that they’re absolutely fine no problem the only thing is it looks absolutely terrible so I’m going to eliminate that and I’ve decided to nail the 12k end strap on the back with my rebate errs and then once my raft is going all I’m going to do is fold that over and now that down and that gives me a really nice strong mechanical fixing now these are the marks where my studs are on the wall now as per my specs on the plan it says my coat screws have to be no more than a meter apart which works out pretty good here obviously I’m not going to choose that one that’s hard up against where my rough that’s going to go so what I’ll do is I’ll just square the stem and do a hole and the center of that one and the same on this one here now we’ll just do the same for all the others okay now I’m using a twelvemonth coat screw so I’m going to draw a 13 mil hole through our ribbon plate you’ll need a mate to help you position the ribbon plate next I’m pre drilling the coke screw holes this is a timber we’re the board house if yours is different just refer to your plane rightio the next thing we need to do is attach our peckers to the back of our ribbon plate so I like in this example I’ve got a 20 mil thick Packer that’s what council rigs state now I’ve made these 45 mil foot wide so what I’m going to do is cut up a whole lot of Packers about 20 mil thick by 45 wide and then I’m just going to pin them to the back of our ribbon plate and then I’m going to tip the ribbon plate back over then I’m going to drill all the way through with our 13 model home and take that ribbon up to the wall all in one piece with the Packers attached rightio all the holes are drilled through our peckers now it’s the big thing I’ve to take this up and attach it to the house now as part of council regulations I’m attention neoprene washer and behind our packer so it sandwiches up nice and tight create a watertight seal between the house and our ribbon plate now nail each stretch to the back of the ribbon plate centered on each rebate radio I’ve got my Packers attached to the back of the ribbon plate the neoprene washers on there ready to go a pre drilled a hole McCoach screws are sitting in there nice ready to go as well and I’ve also attached our strap so what I have to do is attach it to the wall now we’re just going to make sure that we’re going to follow our line the whole way we’ll just kind of start from one end and work our way to the end obviously you’re going to need a mate to give you a hand now a great little tip when you are putting these up as use an impact driver and I’ve got a socket set attachment on the end that’s just going to make the whole job a lot easier now whilst I’m up the SCAF I thought I’ll just take all our dimensions of exactly where our rebates are on our ribbon plate then when I jump down I can mark them all out on our beam 28:58 now I want to put a 5 degree fall on this pergola say as per my plan if I put a level line from the top of my ribbon plate across I come down 193 that’ll give me exactly 5 degree 4 okay so that’s 193 now that is to the top of our beam now I’ve got a little cross section of our beam that there is going to sit flush on the outside and so what we’re going to do is just physically mark the bottom of our beam now that there is the top of our place so we can now measure that and cut out poster suit 23 82 okay my post has cut to length of attention for 20 more Packers on I’ve got the neoprene washer there I’ve drilled a hole all the way through the only thing I have to do now is attach this to the house now this is pretty much exactly the same as the way we touch their rim plate to the house fantastic right we’re all set up now to chop off the top of the other two posts just to recap the 193 millimeter measurement is from the top of the ribbon plate this gives us our five-degree full add the width of the beam to this and that’s the top of the post okay now what I’m going to do is exactly the same as on the other end I’m going to live it across from the top of our ribbon plate come down 193 193 now thickness of my beam okay there’s just one last thing I’m going to do to this post I’m going to put our beam back on it because our beam has got to be flush with the front of the post I’m just got to mark the backside because I’ve been 65 our post is 90 and I’m just going to cut a 45 degree on there that’ll create a nice little detail and then we’re going to string line from one end to the other and that’ll indicate exactly where to chop off the middle post so I’m just going to square across from our string line chop that off again just as we same as with every other one so let’s just give the edge just a light little took it up take off those sharp points enough to have done this we’ll just put a little bit of primer paint on there keep it all looking good the next thing I need to do is to get the overall length of the beam to do that I’m measuring from the outside of the post attached to the house to my string line I then come back 63 millimeters which gives me the length of the beam that’ll give me a dimension of five seven oh eight now that’s exactly what I’m going to cut my beam to ok the slope on my pergola is five degrees so I’m going to need to cut all the rafters at that five degrees so what I’m going to do is cut a scrap piece of timber five degrees and transfer that measurement onto the beam now I’ve already cut my beam to length using the old trusty circular saw okay so I’m just going to start marking out from all our dimensions that we got off the ribbon plate now just have to make sure that you put the rebate on the right side so I know all my marks are on my left the rebate will be on the right next one is 1901 now one of the reasons I cut five degrees on my little block of timber do always just square that mark down first now that five degrees is actually going to give me the exact length that our rebate out of now being righty-o I’ll sit meticulous order ten millimeters so I’m just going to rebate out now be ready for the rafters right here there’s looking absolutely lovely now the most conventional way of building a pergola is by setting our rafters on top of our beam now as you can see this just looks a whole lot nicer and neater by rebaiting them in now apply primer too albeit timber now the most conventional way that we attach our beam to our post is by using one of these bow Mac brackets and that will bolt all the way through our beam and our pace but you know what I really don’t like the look of this but I still need a mechanical fixing to attach our beam to our post so what I am actually going to use is the length of threaded rod so I’m going to drill a hole all the way through our beam and then into our post and we’re going to glue that in such a ok now it’s time to mark out exactly where our holes are going to go for our threaded rod so all I’ve done is push the beam hard up against our post I’ve ensured that it’s flush with that in here I know it’s overhanging here so all I have to do is just mark the center of the post on our beam now turn the beam over and square it from your centers to the middle of the beam for the position of your holes now just before I rip into drilling this hole what I have got here is a standard speed ball on the end of a drill extension now the great thing about these drill extensions you know pretty much most people have got speed ball sets at home so all I’ve done is put just extension that you can slot your standard drill bits into it now I’m using a 16 mil speed ball but I’ve got a 12 little threaded rod so that’s going to give me plenty of glue around the threaded rod when it goes into the timber okay so I just want to make the center of our posting just to do that I’m just going to make the diagonals cool and we just want to drill down about the length of our drill bit which is 130 millimeters now what is pretty important before we put our glue there we just want to make sure that we get all our dust out of there so you can either blow it out with a compressor or a little hand pump righty I’ve already pre-cut my threaded rod using my hacksaw now the lens for this was the length of our beam plus our 130 millimeters that went into our hole so now it’s time to go up our posts now the type of glue that I’m using to secure these bolts in place is a high performance epoxy anchoring system now this one is actually designed for concrete and timber so we’ll just pump this is a two-part epoxy so as we squeeze it out the two parts are mixing now we don’t want to stuff around too much on this because the glue can go off and hot weather pretty quickly righty-o obviously you’re going to need a mate to give your hand dropping us in place just take your time now we’re just going to fill that hole full of our epoxy and then link the two together with our threaded rod don’t be too shy of giving it too much we want that hole filled up completely nice so all I’m going to do drop our threaded rod in place and I’m going to let that go off overnight so in the meantime I’m just going to clamp the post to the beam so that doesn’t move while that’s sitting now I just want to repeat the same for other two posts right now it’s time to cut our rafters so there’s a couple of different ways we can get our length of our after I could use it with tape measure and actually physically measure and between our beam and our ribbon plate or I can actually just take and pitch the rafter that is slightly longer and all I’m going to do I just got that sitting on my nail and I’m going to place this on the outside and actually scribe it so no I can’t go wrong righty-right is my first rafter cut now I’m just got to slot that into position that’s footing nice and lovely now I’m going to use this as a template take this down the other end and just check to see if that fits in nice and tight that’s looking good I’ll just check it one more time in the middle of our beam and if that’s going in nice and tight there I’ll pre-cut all the rafters the same dimension now if you don’t feel confident cutting them all exactly the same you might want to just be sure as measure each one individually just double-check that we’re looking pretty good down here that’s a nice tight fit we’ll just check in the middle in right yeah this looking absolutely marvelous now I can pre cut all our after the deck of the same okay I’ve installed all the other rafters I’ve just saved this last one to show you what I have done is pre-drill a 5 millimeter hole through the front of our beam because I’m going to face folks through the beam with us 150 mil bugle screw now these absolutely fantastic I’m going to put them in with the impact driver I don’t need to worry about pre drilling into my rafters because all these are self tapping now down on the Reuben plate in what I’m attaching the rafters to the ribbon plate with these 10-gauge 3-inch Galvis okay one of the last things have to do before my purlins go on let’s just nail down our straps onto our rafters now we don’t need to fill up the strap every single hole as long as we’ve got a minimum of about six nails on there we’ll be good to go like I’m just about ready to put my peelings on now spm a plan it shows that I have four peelings sitting on top of the rafters so what I’m going to have is one on either end and two in the middle so all I’ve done is taking that dimension divided it by three that gives me my spaces so I’ve got a nail hooked and down the end I’ve got my chalk line attached to it so what I’m going to do is just give that a ping it’ll mark all my rafters repeal and sit on that side of the line now I’m ready for my parents’ use the same string line technique to mark the position of the other metal Pilon so it’s one pealing on the ribbon plate one on the beam and the other two evenly spaced in the middle I’m just flexing off my last peel and now obviously we’ve got our straps here we can’t nail through that so what I’m going to do is just pre-drill a hole through the middle strap then I’m just going to nail it on by hand look at that a great result let’s really transform the exterior of this house we’ve created an extra outdoor area ready to be enjoyed and by following the plans it was easy as