What is Egyptian cotton, and why is it so special?

Egyptian cotton is grown in the Nile River valley, a humid area that has long been considered to have the most desirable conditions and soil for growing fine cotton. There are a variety of cotton types grown in Egypt, and each is categorized by the length of the cotton fiber. The most popular varieties are extra-long staple (or ESL), long staple (or LS), and regular cotton. ELS fibers are spun into much finer, softer, and stronger yarns than the other two, making it the most desirable for providing luxurious comfort. ESL produces less lint and is less likely to pill than other varieties, and it also gets softer with every wash, which most consumers view as an added bonus. As you shop for Egyptian cotton linens, keep in mind that only a small percentage fall in the ESL category. Some linens labeled as Egyptian cotton are made of an inferior cotton strand that falls short of what most consumers think Egyptian cotton should feel like. Fortunately, when you shop with US-Mattress, you can find a wide selection of ESL Egyptian cotton linens that will provide you with soft, luxurious comfort for years to come. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to leave us a comment or give us a call at 1-800-455-1052.

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The Truth About The My Pillow Commercial Guy

Do you wake up feeling tired in the morning? Are those mornings ruined by phantom headaches, a stiff neck, and “a tingly feeling” in your fingertips? If so, you may have spent one too many sleepless nights watching MyPillow infomercials. And who can blame you? After all, they’re nearly impossible to avoid, as according to CNBC, MyPillow creator Mike Lindell has spent more than $100 million on them. But it seems to have paid off, as by 2017, MyPillow was reportedly raking in more than $300 million a year in revenue. But how much do you actually know about Lindell? It may all sound like a crazy fever dream when you learn the amazing truth about the MyPillow commercial guy. ​He was a crack addict Lindell founded MyPillow in 2004, but it was nearly derailed by his crack addiction. How bad was it? He told Bloomberg that in 2008, his dealer actually staged an intervention. “The one guy says, ‘Mike’s been up for fourteen days.’ He said, ‘We’re shuttin’ you off.

You’re not getting anything.'” Lindell said he eventually cleaned up his act on January 16th, 2009, when he reportedly quit all substances after one last blowout. He told CNBC, “And I said, ‘You know, God, I’m gonna wake up in the morning and never have the desire again for this.'” It worked. Amazing what a good night’s sleep can do for you! Dream come true Fittingly enough, Lindell claims the idea for MyPillow came to him in a dream.

He told CNBC, “I mean, I got up in the middle of the night, it was about two in the morning, and I had ‘MyPillow’ wrote everywhere in the kitchen and all over the house.” In a moment he vividly reenacted in a MyPillow commercial, Lindell claims one of his daughters entered the kitchen that night and found her father working. He told her. “I’ve got this idea for this pillow. It’s gonna be called MyPillow!” All his daughter apparently said was: “That’s really random,” and turned and headed back downstairs.

Sounds like a well-adjusted child. If we ever walked into the kitchen to find our father scrawling “MyPillow” all over everything, we would scream. He thinks MyPillow was an act of God After dropping out of college back in 1979, and being fired from a job at a supermarket, Lindell struggled for decades, trying everything from raising pigs to becoming a professional gambler. So it’s no wonder he credits God with both the initial idea, and for the massive success of MyPillow. He told CNBC, “I look back now and go, ‘The only way we were able to do that was divine intervention.'” Lindell has tried to pay things back in numerous way, including staging the world’s largest pillow fight at an evangelistic meeting in Minnesota. “Keep swinging at everybody! Keep swinging it! Woo! Say, ‘Jesus!'” And he also co-founded LIGHTBEAMedia, a Christian production company that offers cinematic fare such as Heaven, How I Got Here: A Night with the Thief on the Cross, which stars Stephen Baldwin as a thief who dies on a crucifix several feet away from Jesus Christ.

“I did it and it felt good. When a thief gets sloppy, a thief gets caught.” “Lord, make these pillows that people take home their prayer pillow.” Bad boss? Back in 2014, an anonymous source posted an audio clip on YouTube that allegedly featured Lindell ranting and dropping the f-bomb on several of his employees after an order of 150,000 pillows got botched. Lindell reportedly berated one employee, screaming “Don’t shake your f—ing head!” Lindell’s lawyers had the audio scrubbed from the internet, and Lindell told the Star Tribune he suspected “two former employees and relatives” with a grudge leaked the audio.

Some speculate he may have been referring to relatives of his ex-wife, Dallas Yocum, who Lindell says sent him packing with the words, “I don’t love you. I never loved you. You’re boring.” “Shipping department!!” Deceptive ads My Pillow is famous for its comfort guarantee: “My Pillow, guaranteed the most comfortable pillow you’ll ever own or your money back.” What you’ll no longer see in their advertising, though, are claims that the pillow will have a positive influence on your health, ridding you of insomnia, restless leg syndrome, migraines, snoring, sleep apnea, and fibromyalgia.

That’s because MyPillow paid a $1 million settlement in a lawsuit brought by the state of California alleging “deceptive advertising practices” for making claims they “should have known were untrue or misleading.” “They don’t care! They don’t care!” “They don’t give a rat’s ass!” Meanwhile, Truth in Advertising Executive Director Bonnie Patten sounds pretty certain Lindell did plenty wrong: “MyPillow was deceiving consumers into buying these expensive pillows thinking that it was going to help their health conditions when he had no science to back up these claims.” That wasn’t the only problem with their ads either. In January, 2017, MyPillow’s “A+” rating from the Better Business Bureau of Minnesota and North Dakota dropped to an “F.” The issue this time? An ongoing “buy one get one free” promotion where you didn’t actually get anything free. “The Bureau’s Barb Greeman says a pricing deal with no time limit is really just the product’s regular price.” “There was one other thing, too.

If you look at Walmart, if you look at Target, if you look at Amazon, you can get a MyPillow for fifty bucks.” “Right.” “If you go to their website, it’s eighty-nine.” For his part, Lindell denies there’s anything shady about his shady practices, and claims he’s being persecuted because of his relationship with Donald Trump. Speaking of which… Trump says Lindell makes a ‘great’ pillow As the expression goes, Mike Lindell and Donald Trump are as thick as thieves. According to Lindell’s website, the two first met in 2016, with Lindell telling Trump that he was a “divine appointment.” Since then, Trump has publically shilled for MyPillow in his political speeches.

“First of all he does make a great product, great pillows. I actually use them, believe it or not.” Believe it or not. .

Easy DIY Baby Blanket Sewing Tutorial

Hi, I’m Jen from Online Fabric Store. Making a baby blanket is fun because you get to choose prints and colors you like. The blanket I’m going to make is quick and easy. So let’s get started. The materials you’ll need are: 1 yard of minky, I’m using Gray Minky Dot fabric, 1 yard of cotton, I’m using Michael Miller Zoology Sea fabric, fabric scissors, a fabric marker, a ruler, ballpoint pins, and thread. Measure a 36 by 36 inch square out of the cotton and minky fabrics. Make sure you’re measuring on the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out both squares. Place the wrong side of the minky fabric on the table. Center the cotton fabric over the minky with the right side facing up. Fold the edges over 1 inch twice on all four sides and pin. For the corners, snip the extra fabric off at an angle before folding. Stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance along the fold line.

Back stitch at the beginning and the end. To keep the corners down, stitch along the outside edge. The baby blanket is now complete. By folding the edges over it gives the blanket a border and creates a finished look. You can use either side of this blanket. Thanks for watching this OFS project. .

Installing Hardwood Floors on Concrete

It’s great to see so much natural timber coming out from under the rug. Literally thousands of people are ripping up there carpets to reveal beautiful natural timber floor boards. Da daaaaaaaaaaaaa Oh, it’s concrete. I knew that. But it’s ok because we are going to show you how to lay a beautiful natural timber floor on this concrete pad. We are going to lay the floor using the direct stick method. Which actually means we are going to glue it and nail it to the concrete pad. Before you begin, your timber floor supplier should be able to check moisture levels in the slab to make sure it’s dry enough. There is a large range of colours, grains and varieties of solid timber floors available. The one we have chosen is this light coloured oak, it’s going to work really well with the colours we are going to paint the walls. It’s 80mm wide and 12mm thick. We start by marking and checking out the door frame so that the end bead fits neatly underneath. We are going to lay the boards this way, always start with your longest run.

Now the timber is cut to size, the fitting of the first plank is very important. It’s gotta be in exactly the right place. To allow for a 10mm expansion gap down this side we have marked the wall an extra 10mm out here. Using polyurethane adhesive, we glue and nail one end of the first board. This must be set absolutely straight, as it is a guide for the rest of the floor. So the very next job in getting this first board absolutely true is to run a string line so we can fix this. Just pull it tight Dene. Oh and have you got the pencil and ruler.. Thanks… Using the string line as a guide, nail and paint the first board. The glue is then evenly spread onto the floor and we can start to lay the timber. Well the glue is spread nice and consistently. It’s very important because if you don’t get that bit right, you get lumps and bumps. We have measured and allowed enough glue for 10 boards.

We are going to put those in and then we are going to clamp it. Now at this point, once our first 10 boards are down we clamp using these clamps which you can hire from the retailer. Just to close all these gaps up and then we fix and nail the first board or the last board down to hold it all in place. Then we remove the clamps and continue on our way. When you clamping it you make sure that you use an off cut as a block, just to protect the tongue on the side of the timber there. Once clamped, we check for raised for raised or drummy stops. We then drill and nail to fix. You right on the end? Yep? We then continue laying the boards which we have cut at random to create a staggered pattern. Well that’s great we are getting there. Looks good. Very good. Well it’s looking great so far, we have almost come to the end of the laying. The next bit is the sanding and we’re not going to do that are we.

No I think that calls for an expert. Our expert floor sander uses this vast array of specialist equipment to produce a brilliant finish on our timber floor. There are 16 separate steps in the process. He starts with a fairly course paper and then sands both across the boards diagonally, and then along the grain to ensure a dead flat surface. Corners are hand levelled and sanded to ensure an even professional result. Any imperfections or nail holes are hand filled and sanded. The grade of papers are then reduced over separate sanding, finishing with a buffing mat or disc. He then applies the finish over 3 separate coatings. And we end up with a superb job on our beautiful solid timber floor. Well, we did it. Yeah apart from the sanding. As you have seen sanding can be a little bit tricky. I agree, sanding and polishing is defiantly a job for the experts. But it looks great. It looks fantastic. .

DreamFit Premium Bamboo-Rich Comfort Sheet Set

HI. I AM A REGULAR GUY AND I LIKE REGULAR GUY THINGS BASEBALL, HOTDOGS, MUSCLE CARS, SILKY SHEETS AND THAT IS WHY I SLEEP ON THIS SET FROM DREAMFIT. LET ME TELL YOU A LITTLE BIT MORE ABOUT WHY I LOVE THE SHEET SET SO MUCH. THE LEVEL 5 PREMIUM COMFORT RICH PERFORMANCE SHEET SET FROM DREAMFIT EMPLOYS LUXURIOUS 70% RAYON FROM BAMBOO AND 30% COTTON BLENDED INTO A SILKY SOFT SHEET THAT WHISKS AWAY MOISTURE FROM THE SURFACE OF YOUR BODY. DREAMFIT COMBINES NEW PATENTED TECHNOLOGY WITH HIGH QUALITY MATERIALS FOR THE MOST COMFORTABLE SLEEPING EXPERIENCE. EACH SHEET WILL FIT YOUR MATTRESS WITH TAILOR-MADE PRECISION. THANKS TO THE PATENTED GUARANTEED TO FIT AND GUARANTEED TO STAY ON CORNER STRAP DESIGN WITH SUPER STRONG ELASTIC BINDING THAT GUARANTEES THE FITTED SHEET WILL STAY ON ANY MATTRESS. THIS SHEET SET IS NATURALLY HYPOALLERGENIC AND MADE IN THE U.S.A OF IMPORTED MATERIALS. THE EXTRA LARGE TOP SHEET WILL FIT TODAY’S TALL MATTRESSES AND THE BOTTOM FITTED SHEET ACCOMMODATES ANY MATTRESS UP TO 20 INCHES AND IT COMES WITH A 1 YEAR WARRANTY.

SO IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR THE BENEFITS OF NATURAL MATERIALS AND SILKY SMOOTH COMFORT LOOK TO DREAMFIT, YOU ARE GOING TO BE PLEASED WITH WHAT YOU FIND. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS DON’T HESITATE TO CALL OUR SALES STAFF AT 1-800-455-1052. .

How To Install Bamboo Screening – DIY At Bunnings

I’m going to show you how to install bamboo screening. Material we need for the job are our netting clips, our wire and our eyelets. Tools we need for the job are our drill, tape measure, screwdriver, pliers and our crimping tool. We’re going to install our eyelets into the fence to run our wire through to hang the bamboo fencing off. Now we’ve got three eyelets so we’re just going to fix them to the same heart of the rails of the fence, starting from the top and working down. I’ve got my drill with my drill bit so I’m going to do a pilot hole. A handy hint when fixing the eyelets to the fence is use a screwdriver, fit it through the eyelet like that, and then just turn it. Also too, when you’ve finished screwing in the eyelet to the fence, make sure that it is running vertically to take your wire to run down the fence. Now we have our first row of eyelets in, we’re going to go ahead and install the rest of our eyelets along our fence.

Now, the distance that we have to span, we’re going to go one in the middle and then one at either end. The next step in the process is running our wire through the eyelets and tying it off at each end. You might need someone to give you a hand with this so I’ve got my mate Andy to come and give me a hand. He’s going to hold one end and we’re going to measure our length of wire before we fit it through the eyelets. Thank you Andy. Now we’re going to cut it to length. When you cut it, it always pays to do 100mm extra than what you need so you’ve got wire to tie it off.

Now that we’ve cut our wire, we’re going to feed it through the eyelets and tie it off. So now that we’ve got our wires run through our eyelets, we’re going to fix it off at each end. It’s just a matter of getting your wire and just twisting it round each other and then snipping it off at the end. Now that we’ve got this end tied off, we’re going to go down the other end and take tension on the wire and tie the other end off. It’s also a good idea that as you’re walking down the wire to stretch it out and take any kinks out of it as you’re working down it. Next step in the process is to roll out our bamboo fencing, fixing the bamboo fencing to our wire with our crimping tool and our netting clips.

It’s just a simple process of putting the netting clip in the crimping tool like that, and then applying pressure just to clamp it down like that. We’re going to go ahead and crimp the rest of the wire, doing spaces at three to four hundred as we go along on each wire. When we get to the next bamboo sheet, it’s just a matter of rolling it out and butting it up to the existing bamboo sheet, and then crimping it off. Now that we have crimped off our three wires, we’ve got a bit of an opening at the top up there. It’s just a matter of bringing them together and crimping them together on these two wires out of there. Now that we’ve got our bamboo screening rolled out against the fence, it’s just a matter of crimping off this end. Now it’s also a good tip that when you’re crimping it just to make sure that you crimp it through a loop of the wire, so you can take tension on it and so it doesn’t slide down the wire.

As you can see, we’ve come to the end of our run. We have a little bit of overhang. It’s just a simple matter of getting your tin snips and snipping off each wire, leaving an inch overhang from the end of the eyelet. And that’s how you go about installing bamboo screening. .

Cariloha Mattress Unboxing – First Look at this Resort Bed!

Music Music Hey guys, Diana and Janet here and girls with Two Mom’s Review and today we’re going to be doing the unboxing for the Cariloha mattress and just so you know It’s Caribbean aloha (and aloha) together Cariloha I’m going to tell you everyone’s name, so this is Janet This is Lily and I’m Moana and I’m just dressing up and my name it my real name is Alexis Star … and her name is Diana… When do you order at Cariloha bed you also get these bamboo sheets to go with it, and we will review these too but look how nice that box is and I just want to tell you that these guys are luxury mattress the kind you would get at a resort in the Bahamas or something or in the Caribbean or Caribbean. And it’s made I actually went to the store in St George Utah where they are based they make all sorts of things out of the same material which is the bamboo.

What do you think girls? Wow? It’s soft. So soft. It is light. Oh light and stretchy. I liked the this bamboo shirt so much (bought from the same company) I’m so comfy that I bought it so I hope the bed is just as comfortable as this shirt. We’ll come back after it’s fully inflated to see how works. Two Moms Review Outtakes Carla Caribbean Kara, Kara, Kara, La Jolla, Kerala Houma I’m sure Kerry Elmo’s, La Jolla like Caribbean and Aloha Kara Kara hello pear Aloha, Kerala, Kerala Today we’re going to be doing the unboxing of the care Aloha mattress oh Is it Carol allahu la jolla Carol Carol Carol Carol? I’ve been practicing all morning.

Cariloha! .

How To Choose Running Clothing (And 2 Surprising Products to Avoid)

Hi guys I’m Shelly Willingham from 5K Running Tips After a glorious summer, it’s time to starting to thinking about the cooler weather when you’re out running. But to ease the transition, this week, I’m going to be sharing some inspiring winter weather gear ideas that I hope you guys will love. And today I’m kicking off with how to choose running clothing. We’re going to talk about that to look out for when buying clothing and finally I’m going to talk about 2 fabrics you need to be really careful of. Lets get started. Running clothes you typically need are tops, bottoms, socks, hat, sports bra and running shoes. To be comfortable when you’re running, you need to get it right. There are a few features you need to look out for when shopping for running clothes. As a guide try to get clothes that are moisture wicking and quick drying. Wicking fabrics move moisture away from the skin. It works by absorbing and spreading moisture out across the fabric to enhance the evaporative drying rate.. That just means that they don’t hold moisture.

You will be kept dry and won’t get cold. Good examples of fabrics that are moisture wicking and quick drying: merino wool, nylon and polyester. The 2 products that you should be very careful of when buying running clothes and gear The first on is cotton and the second one is bamboo Cotton is not a good option because it holds moisture. As you sweat cotton absorbs the moisture and if the cotton is touching your skin, it’ll quickly make you cold. The other product to avoid when buying Running Gear is Bamboo Bamboo has been big in the outdoor and adventure scene. it’s often marketed as a green product with the same characteristics as wool. Be careful of bamboo though, many bamboo fabrics are just a type of rayon and share all of its pitfalls.

So there just a quick run down of the different fabrics and how to choose running clothing. I hope you’ve found this video interesting. I love to see your running pictures, so be sure to tag me on instagram @shellywilling – the link is below in the description. If you haven’t already be sure to subscribe to my channel for more helpful tips. thank you for watching I appreciate your time!

Concierge Collection 2pack Rayon from Bamboo Bed Pillows

YOU YOU HAVE YOU HAVE GOT YOU HAVE GOT THAT YOU HAVE GOT THAT COOLNESS YOU HAVE GOT THAT COOLNESS FACTOR, YOU HAVE GOT THAT COOLNESS FACTOR, THAT’S COOLNESS FACTOR, THAT’S COOLNESS FACTOR, THAT’S WHAT’S COOLNESS FACTOR, THAT’S WHAT’S SO COOLNESS FACTOR, THAT’S WHAT’S SO EXCITING. COOLNESS FACTOR, THAT’S WHAT’S SO EXCITING. YOU WHAT’S SO EXCITING. YOU WHAT’S SO EXCITING. YOU GUYS WHAT’S SO EXCITING. YOU GUYS ARE WHAT’S SO EXCITING. YOU GUYS ARE JUST WHAT’S SO EXCITING. YOU GUYS ARE JUST LET WHAT’S SO EXCITING. YOU GUYS ARE JUST LET ME WHAT’S SO EXCITING. YOU GUYS ARE JUST LET ME GUY GUYS ARE JUST LET ME GUY GUYS ARE JUST LET ME GUY KNOW GUYS ARE JUST LET ME GUY KNOW THAT GUYS ARE JUST LET ME GUY KNOW THAT HOW GUYS ARE JUST LET ME GUY KNOW THAT HOW MANY GUYS ARE JUST LET ME GUY KNOW THAT HOW MANY MORE KNOW THAT HOW MANY MORE KNOW THAT HOW MANY MORE HAD KNOW THAT HOW MANY MORE HAD ADDED KNOW THAT HOW MANY MORE HAD ADDED OF KNOW THAT HOW MANY MORE HAD ADDED OF THE KNOW THAT HOW MANY MORE HAD ADDED OF THE PILLOWS KNOW THAT HOW MANY MORE HAD ADDED OF THE PILLOWS? HAD ADDED OF THE PILLOWS? HAD ADDED OF THE PILLOWS? OKAY HAD ADDED OF THE PILLOWS? OKAY FANTASTIC HAD ADDED OF THE PILLOWS? OKAY FANTASTIC THEY’VE OKAY FANTASTIC THEY’VE OKAY FANTASTIC THEY’VE ADDED OKAY FANTASTIC THEY’VE ADDED ANOTHER OKAY FANTASTIC THEY’VE ADDED ANOTHER 350 OKAY FANTASTIC THEY’VE ADDED ANOTHER 350 IN OKAY FANTASTIC THEY’VE ADDED ANOTHER 350 IN THE ADDED ANOTHER 350 IN THE ADDED ANOTHER 350 IN THE PILLOWS ADDED ANOTHER 350 IN THE PILLOWS SO ADDED ANOTHER 350 IN THE PILLOWS SO WE’RE ADDED ANOTHER 350 IN THE PILLOWS SO WE’RE JUST PILLOWS SO WE’RE JUST PILLOWS SO WE’RE JUST GOING PILLOWS SO WE’RE JUST GOING TO PILLOWS SO WE’RE JUST GOING TO GIVE PILLOWS SO WE’RE JUST GOING TO GIVE YOU GOING TO GIVE YOU GOING TO GIVE YOU EVERYTHING GOING TO GIVE YOU EVERYTHING WE GOING TO GIVE YOU EVERYTHING WE HAVE GOING TO GIVE YOU EVERYTHING WE HAVE GOT GOING TO GIVE YOU EVERYTHING WE HAVE GOT E EVERYTHING WE HAVE GOT E EVERYTHING WE HAVE GOT E ON EVERYTHING WE HAVE GOT E ON THE EVERYTHING WE HAVE GOT E ON THE PILLOWS EVERYTHING WE HAVE GOT E ON THE PILLOWS THE EVERYTHING WE HAVE GOT E ON THE PILLOWS THE CLA ON THE PILLOWS THE CLA ON THE PILLOWS THE CLA NOW ON THE PILLOWS THE CLA NOW SCHEDULED NOW SCHEDULED NOW SCHEDULED PRESENTATION NOW SCHEDULED PRESENTATION ON NOW SCHEDULED PRESENTATION ON THE PRESENTATION ON THE PRESENTATION ON THE PILLOWS PRESENTATION ON THE PILLOWS THAT PRESENTATION ON THE PILLOWS THAT BEEN PRESENTATION ON THE PILLOWS THAT BEEN MORE PILLOWS THAT BEEN MORE PILLOWS THAT BEEN MORE POPULAR PILLOWS THAT BEEN MORE POPULAR THAN PILLOWS THAT BEEN MORE POPULAR THAN THE PILLOWS THAT BEEN MORE POPULAR THAN THE POPULAR POPULAR THAN THE POPULAR POPULAR THAN THE POPULAR MATTRESS POPULAR THAN THE POPULAR MATTRESS PAD POPULAR THAN THE POPULAR MATTRESS PAD SO POPULAR THAN THE POPULAR MATTRESS PAD SO GO MATTRESS PAD SO GO MATTRESS PAD SO GO FIGURE.

FIGURE. FIGURE. >>GUEST: FIGURE. >>GUEST: BECAUSE FIGURE. >>GUEST: BECAUSE GOOD >>GUEST: BECAUSE GOOD >>GUEST: BECAUSE GOOD PILLOWS >>GUEST: BECAUSE GOOD PILLOWS ARTICA >>GUEST: BECAUSE GOOD PILLOWS ARTICA MY >>GUEST: BECAUSE GOOD PILLOWS ARTICA MY ART PILLOWS ARTICA MY ART PILLOWS ARTICA MY ART THEY? PILLOWS ARTICA MY ART THEY? THEY’RE PILLOWS ARTICA MY ART THEY? THEY’RE VERY THEY? THEY’RE VERY THEY? THEY’RE VERY EXPENSIVE THEY? THEY’RE VERY EXPENSIVE AND THEY? THEY’RE VERY EXPENSIVE AND HAVE THEY? THEY’RE VERY EXPENSIVE AND HAVE A EXPENSIVE AND HAVE A EXPENSIVE AND HAVE A SHORT EXPENSIVE AND HAVE A SHORT LIFESPAN EXPENSIVE AND HAVE A SHORT LIFESPAN THESE EXPENSIVE AND HAVE A SHORT LIFESPAN THESE ARE SHORT LIFESPAN THESE ARE SHORT LIFESPAN THESE ARE WASHABLE, SHORT LIFESPAN THESE ARE WASHABLE, VERY SHORT LIFESPAN THESE ARE WASHABLE, VERY IMPORTANT WASHABLE, VERY IMPORTANT WASHABLE, VERY IMPORTANT BUT WASHABLE, VERY IMPORTANT BUT IS WASHABLE, VERY IMPORTANT BUT IS A WASHABLE, VERY IMPORTANT BUT IS A LOT WASHABLE, VERY IMPORTANT BUT IS A LOT A WASHABLE, VERY IMPORTANT BUT IS A LOT A KEY BUT IS A LOT A KEY BUT IS A LOT A KEY DIFFERENCES BUT IS A LOT A KEY DIFFERENCES ON BUT IS A LOT A KEY DIFFERENCES ON THESE BUT IS A LOT A KEY DIFFERENCES ON THESE THE DIFFERENCES ON THESE THE DIFFERENCES ON THESE THE FIRST DIFFERENCES ON THESE THE FIRST MAN DIFFERENCES ON THESE THE FIRST MAN ACTUAL DIFFERENCES ON THESE THE FIRST MAN ACTUAL COVER FIRST MAN ACTUAL COVER FIRST MAN ACTUAL COVER IT’S FIRST MAN ACTUAL COVER IT’S SELF FIRST MAN ACTUAL COVER IT’S SELF KNOWLEDGE FIRST MAN ACTUAL COVER IT’S SELF KNOWLEDGE THE IT’S SELF KNOWLEDGE THE IT’S SELF KNOWLEDGE THE BAMBOO IT’S SELF KNOWLEDGE THE BAMBOO WE’RE IT’S SELF KNOWLEDGE THE BAMBOO WE’RE TALKING BAMBOO WE’RE TALKING BAMBOO WE’RE TALKING ABOUT BAMBOO WE’RE TALKING ABOUT THE BAMBOO WE’RE TALKING ABOUT THE COOLNESS, BAMBOO WE’RE TALKING ABOUT THE COOLNESS, ABOU ABOUT THE COOLNESS, ABOU ABOUT THE COOLNESS, ABOU SILKY ABOUT THE COOLNESS, ABOU SILKY NEST ABOUT THE COOLNESS, ABOU SILKY NEST THAT ABOUT THE COOLNESS, ABOU SILKY NEST THAT ORDER SILKY NEST THAT ORDER SILKY NEST THAT ORDER RESISTANCE SILKY NEST THAT ORDER RESISTANCE THAT SILKY NEST THAT ORDER RESISTANCE THAT IS SILKY NEST THAT ORDER RESISTANCE THAT IS BILL RESISTANCE THAT IS BILL RESISTANCE THAT IS BILL AND RESISTANCE THAT IS BILL AND BUT RESISTANCE THAT IS BILL AND BUT THE RESISTANCE THAT IS BILL AND BUT THE KNIT, RESISTANCE THAT IS BILL AND BUT THE KNIT, THE AND BUT THE KNIT, THE AND BUT THE KNIT, THE UNITED AND BUT THE KNIT, THE UNITED STATES AND BUT THE KNIT, THE UNITED STATES DIFFERENCE UNITED STATES DIFFERENCE UNITED STATES DIFFERENCE IN UNITED STATES DIFFERENCE IN THIS UNITED STATES DIFFERENCE IN THIS COVER UNITED STATES DIFFERENCE IN THIS COVER HOW UNITED STATES DIFFERENCE IN THIS COVER HOW SOFT IN THIS COVER HOW SOFT IN THIS COVER HOW SOFT AND IN THIS COVER HOW SOFT AND HOW IN THIS COVER HOW SOFT AND HOW COMFORTABLE IN THIS COVER HOW SOFT AND HOW COMFORTABLE IT AND HOW COMFORTABLE IT AND HOW COMFORTABLE IT IS? IS? IS? >>HOST: IS? >>HOST: WILL IS? >>HOST: WILL DISPLAY IS? >>HOST: WILL DISPLAY ME >>HOST: WILL DISPLAY ME >>HOST: WILL DISPLAY ME TAKE >>HOST: WILL DISPLAY ME TAKE OUT >>HOST: WILL DISPLAY ME TAKE OUT THE >>HOST: WILL DISPLAY ME TAKE OUT THE BOX >>HOST: WILL DISPLAY ME TAKE OUT THE BOX AND >>HOST: WILL DISPLAY ME TAKE OUT THE BOX AND TAK TAKE OUT THE BOX AND TAK TAKE OUT THE BOX AND TAK FEEL TAKE OUT THE BOX AND TAK FEEL IT TAKE OUT THE BOX AND TAK FEEL IT YOU TAKE OUT THE BOX AND TAK FEEL IT YOU KNOW TAKE OUT THE BOX AND TAK FEEL IT YOU KNOW YOU TAKE OUT THE BOX AND TAK FEEL IT YOU KNOW YOU FEE FEEL IT YOU KNOW YOU FEE FEEL IT YOU KNOW YOU FEE MADE FEEL IT YOU KNOW YOU FEE MADE THE FEEL IT YOU KNOW YOU FEE MADE THE RIGHT FEEL IT YOU KNOW YOU FEE MADE THE RIGHT DECISION MADE THE RIGHT DECISION MADE THE RIGHT DECISION AND MADE THE RIGHT DECISION AND SILLY! AND SILLY! AND SILLY! >>GUEST: AND SILLY! >>GUEST: AND AND SILLY! >>GUEST: AND M.ASAM AND SILLY! >>GUEST: AND M.ASAM LEFT >>GUEST: AND M.ASAM LEFT >>GUEST: AND M.ASAM LEFT THE >>GUEST: AND M.ASAM LEFT THE INSIDE >>GUEST: AND M.ASAM LEFT THE INSIDE IS >>GUEST: AND M.ASAM LEFT THE INSIDE IS THE THE INSIDE IS THE THE INSIDE IS THE COMBINATION THE INSIDE IS THE COMBINATION OF THE INSIDE IS THE COMBINATION OF FIBERFILL COMBINATION OF FIBERFILL COMBINATION OF FIBERFILL AND COMBINATION OF FIBERFILL AND LATE COMBINATION OF FIBERFILL AND LATE TEXT COMBINATION OF FIBERFILL AND LATE TEXT INSIDE COMBINATION OF FIBERFILL AND LATE TEXT INSIDE THE AND LATE TEXT INSIDE THE AND LATE TEXT INSIDE THE PILLOW AND LATE TEXT INSIDE THE PILLOW AND AND LATE TEXT INSIDE THE PILLOW AND WHAT AND LATE TEXT INSIDE THE PILLOW AND WHAT WE AND LATE TEXT INSIDE THE PILLOW AND WHAT WE LOVE PILLOW AND WHAT WE LOVE PILLOW AND WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT PILLOW AND WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT THAT PILLOW AND WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT THAT YOU PILLOW AND WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT THAT YOU DO PILLOW AND WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT THAT YOU DO GET PILLOW AND WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT THAT YOU DO GET AB ABOUT THAT YOU DO GET AB ABOUT THAT YOU DO GET AB THE ABOUT THAT YOU DO GET AB THE AIRFLO ABOUT THAT YOU DO GET AB THE AIRFLO SO ABOUT THAT YOU DO GET AB THE AIRFLO SO AGAIN ABOUT THAT YOU DO GET AB THE AIRFLO SO AGAIN KNOW THE AIRFLO SO AGAIN KNOW THE AIRFLO SO AGAIN KNOW HOW THE AIRFLO SO AGAIN KNOW HOW THE THE AIRFLO SO AGAIN KNOW HOW THE TEMPERATURE HOW THE TEMPERATURE HOW THE TEMPERATURE REGULATION HOW THE TEMPERATURE REGULATION BY HOW THE TEMPERATURE REGULATION BY AT HOW THE TEMPERATURE REGULATION BY AT THE HOW THE TEMPERATURE REGULATION BY AT THE REG REGULATION BY AT THE REG REGULATION BY AT THE REG SAME REGULATION BY AT THE REG SAME TIME REGULATION BY AT THE REG SAME TIME IT REGULATION BY AT THE REG SAME TIME IT IS REGULATION BY AT THE REG SAME TIME IT IS NOT SAME TIME IT IS NOT SAME TIME IT IS NOT RELEGATED SAME TIME IT IS NOT RELEGATED TO SAME TIME IT IS NOT RELEGATED TO TEMPERATURE RELEGATED TO TEMPERATURE RELEGATED TO TEMPERATURE WHICH RELEGATED TO TEMPERATURE WHICH MEANS RELEGATED TO TEMPERATURE WHICH MEANS YOU RELEGATED TO TEMPERATURE WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE RELEGATED TO TEMPERATURE WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO LAY WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO LAY DOWN WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO LAY DOWN ON WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO LAY DOWN ON THIS WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO LAY DOWN ON THIS AND WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO LAY DOWN ON THIS AND HE LAY DOWN ON THIS AND HE LAY DOWN ON THIS AND HE ENOUGH LAY DOWN ON THIS AND HE ENOUGH TO LAY DOWN ON THIS AND HE ENOUGH TO MAKE LAY DOWN ON THIS AND HE ENOUGH TO MAKE IT ENOUGH TO MAKE IT ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONFORM.

ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONFORM. THIS ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONFORM. THIS IS CONFORM. THIS IS CONFORM. THIS IS NATURALLY CONFORM. THIS IS NATURALLY GOING CONFORM. THIS IS NATURALLY GOING TO NATURALLY GOING TO NATURALLY GOING TO CONFORMING NATURALLY GOING TO CONFORMING TO NATURALLY GOING TO CONFORMING TO THE NATURALLY GOING TO CONFORMING TO THE BOUNCE CONFORMING TO THE BOUNCE CONFORMING TO THE BOUNCE BACK CONFORMING TO THE BOUNCE BACK ON CONFORMING TO THE BOUNCE BACK ON THIS CONFORMING TO THE BOUNCE BACK ON THIS IF CONFORMING TO THE BOUNCE BACK ON THIS IF YOU CONFORMING TO THE BOUNCE BACK ON THIS IF YOU LIKE BACK ON THIS IF YOU LIKE BACK ON THIS IF YOU LIKE A BACK ON THIS IF YOU LIKE A PILLOW BACK ON THIS IF YOU LIKE A PILLOW THAT BACK ON THIS IF YOU LIKE A PILLOW THAT GIVES BACK ON THIS IF YOU LIKE A PILLOW THAT GIVES YOU A PILLOW THAT GIVES YOU A PILLOW THAT GIVES YOU THE A PILLOW THAT GIVES YOU THE MEDIUM A PILLOW THAT GIVES YOU THE MEDIUM SUPPORT A PILLOW THAT GIVES YOU THE MEDIUM SUPPORT THAT THE MEDIUM SUPPORT THAT THE MEDIUM SUPPORT THAT IS THE MEDIUM SUPPORT THAT IS NOT THE MEDIUM SUPPORT THAT IS NOT LIKE THE MEDIUM SUPPORT THAT IS NOT LIKE A THE MEDIUM SUPPORT THAT IS NOT LIKE A BRICK THE MEDIUM SUPPORT THAT IS NOT LIKE A BRICK IS THE MEDIUM SUPPORT THAT IS NOT LIKE A BRICK IS N IS NOT LIKE A BRICK IS N IS NOT LIKE A BRICK IS N RIGHT IS NOT LIKE A BRICK IS N RIGHT ? IS NOT LIKE A BRICK IS N RIGHT ? HOW IS NOT LIKE A BRICK IS N RIGHT ? HOW THEY IS NOT LIKE A BRICK IS N RIGHT ? HOW THEY PILLOWS RIGHT ? HOW THEY PILLOWS RIGHT ? HOW THEY PILLOWS ARE RIGHT ? HOW THEY PILLOWS ARE LIKE RIGHT ? HOW THEY PILLOWS ARE LIKE THAT? RIGHT ? HOW THEY PILLOWS ARE LIKE THAT? THIS’LL ARE LIKE THAT? THIS’LL ARE LIKE THAT? THIS’LL GIVE ARE LIKE THAT? THIS’LL GIVE YOU ARE LIKE THAT? THIS’LL GIVE YOU THAT ARE LIKE THAT? THIS’LL GIVE YOU THAT PERFECT GIVE YOU THAT PERFECT GIVE YOU THAT PERFECT COMBINATION.

COMBINATION. COMBINATION. >>HOST: COMBINATION. >>HOST: FOLKESTONE >>HOST: FOLKESTONE >>HOST: FOLKESTONE ORDERING >>HOST: FOLKESTONE ORDERING PROCESS >>HOST: FOLKESTONE ORDERING PROCESS FOR ORDERING PROCESS FOR ORDERING PROCESS FOR YEARS ORDERING PROCESS FOR YEARS PLEASE ORDERING PROCESS FOR YEARS PLEASE LABOR ORDERING PROCESS FOR YEARS PLEASE LABOR YEARS YEARS PLEASE LABOR YEARS YEARS PLEASE LABOR YEARS REVIEW YEARS PLEASE LABOR YEARS REVIEW WHEN YEARS PLEASE LABOR YEARS REVIEW WHEN YOU YEARS PLEASE LABOR YEARS REVIEW WHEN YOU GET YEARS PLEASE LABOR YEARS REVIEW WHEN YOU GET A REVIEW WHEN YOU GET A REVIEW WHEN YOU GET A HOME REVIEW WHEN YOU GET A HOME I REVIEW WHEN YOU GET A HOME I REALLY REVIEW WHEN YOU GET A HOME I REALLY THINK REVIEW WHEN YOU GET A HOME I REALLY THINK WE HOME I REALLY THINK WE HOME I REALLY THINK WE WILL HOME I REALLY THINK WE WILL BRING HOME I REALLY THINK WE WILL BRING THESE HOME I REALLY THINK WE WILL BRING THESE BACK.

WILL BRING THESE BACK. WILL BRING THESE BACK. >>GUEST: WILL BRING THESE BACK. >>GUEST: RAY WILL BRING THESE BACK. >>GUEST: RAY PILLOWS WILL BRING THESE BACK. >>GUEST: RAY PILLOWS ARE >>GUEST: RAY PILLOWS ARE >>GUEST: RAY PILLOWS ARE GREAT >>GUEST: RAY PILLOWS ARE GREAT THE >>GUEST: RAY PILLOWS ARE GREAT THE FINE–GREAT >>GUEST: RAY PILLOWS ARE GREAT THE FINE–GREAT GR GREAT THE FINE–GREAT GR GREAT THE FINE–GREAT GR AND GREAT THE FINE–GREAT GR AND WHEN GREAT THE FINE–GREAT GR AND WHEN HE, GREAT THE FINE–GREAT GR AND WHEN HE, NEW AND WHEN HE, NEW AND WHEN HE, NEW FABRICATIONS, AND WHEN HE, NEW FABRICATIONS, NEW FABRICATIONS, NEW FABRICATIONS, NEW TECHNOLOGY FABRICATIONS, NEW TECHNOLOGY AND FABRICATIONS, NEW TECHNOLOGY AND GREAT FABRICATIONS, NEW TECHNOLOGY AND GREAT NEW TECHNOLOGY AND GREAT NEW TECHNOLOGY AND GREAT NEW FILLS TECHNOLOGY AND GREAT NEW FILLS YOU TECHNOLOGY AND GREAT NEW FILLS YOU WILL TECHNOLOGY AND GREAT NEW FILLS YOU WILL PAY TECHNOLOGY AND GREAT NEW FILLS YOU WILL PAY A FILLS YOU WILL PAY A FILLS YOU WILL PAY A PREMIUM FILLS YOU WILL PAY A PREMIUM IS FILLS YOU WILL PAY A PREMIUM IS AN FILLS YOU WILL PAY A PREMIUM IS AN AMAZING PREMIUM IS AN AMAZING PREMIUM IS AN AMAZING VALUE PREMIUM IS AN AMAZING VALUE TONIGHT PREMIUM IS AN AMAZING VALUE TONIGHT FOR PREMIUM IS AN AMAZING VALUE TONIGHT FOR 2 PREMIUM IS AN AMAZING VALUE TONIGHT FOR 2 YOU VALUE TONIGHT FOR 2 YOU VALUE TONIGHT FOR 2 YOU ARE VALUE TONIGHT FOR 2 YOU ARE GETTING VALUE TONIGHT FOR 2 YOU ARE GETTING 2! ARE GETTING 2! ARE GETTING 2! >>HOST: ARE GETTING 2! >>HOST: FYI ARE GETTING 2! >>HOST: FYI MIKE ARE GETTING 2! >>HOST: FYI MIKE WEIGHT >>HOST: FYI MIKE WEIGHT >>HOST: FYI MIKE WEIGHT THIS >>HOST: FYI MIKE WEIGHT THIS IS >>HOST: FYI MIKE WEIGHT THIS IS NOT >>HOST: FYI MIKE WEIGHT THIS IS NOT RIGHT! THIS IS NOT RIGHT! THIS IS NOT RIGHT! >>GUEST: THIS IS NOT RIGHT! >>GUEST: A THIS IS NOT RIGHT! >>GUEST: A LOT THIS IS NOT RIGHT! >>GUEST: A LOT OF THIS IS NOT RIGHT! >>GUEST: A LOT OF THOSE >>GUEST: A LOT OF THOSE >>GUEST: A LOT OF THOSE PILLOWS >>GUEST: A LOT OF THOSE PILLOWS TOO >>GUEST: A LOT OF THOSE PILLOWS TOO THEY >>GUEST: A LOT OF THOSE PILLOWS TOO THEY GIVE >>GUEST: A LOT OF THOSE PILLOWS TOO THEY GIVE PI PILLOWS TOO THEY GIVE PI PILLOWS TOO THEY GIVE PI YOU PILLOWS TOO THEY GIVE PI YOU SPECIALTY PILLOWS TOO THEY GIVE PI YOU SPECIALTY FILLS YOU SPECIALTY FILLS YOU SPECIALTY FILLS THEY’RE YOU SPECIALTY FILLS THEY’RE NOT YOU SPECIALTY FILLS THEY’RE NOT WASHABLE YOU SPECIALTY FILLS THEY’RE NOT WASHABLE THE THEY’RE NOT WASHABLE THE THEY’RE NOT WASHABLE THE THIS THEY’RE NOT WASHABLE THE THIS MACHINE THEY’RE NOT WASHABLE THE THIS MACHINE WASHABLE THEY’RE NOT WASHABLE THE THIS MACHINE WASHABLE TH THIS MACHINE WASHABLE TH THIS MACHINE WASHABLE TH FOR THIS MACHINE WASHABLE TH FOR ME THIS MACHINE WASHABLE TH FOR ME THAT’S THIS MACHINE WASHABLE TH FOR ME THAT’S ON THIS MACHINE WASHABLE TH FOR ME THAT’S ON THE THIS MACHINE WASHABLE TH FOR ME THAT’S ON THE KEY FOR ME THAT’S ON THE KEY FOR ME THAT’S ON THE KEY DIFFERENCES FOR ME THAT’S ON THE KEY DIFFERENCES AS FOR ME THAT’S ON THE KEY DIFFERENCES AS WELL.

DIFFERENCES AS WELL. DIFFERENCES AS WELL. >>HOST: DIFFERENCES AS WELL. >>HOST: EVEN DIFFERENCES AS WELL. >>HOST: EVEN IF DIFFERENCES AS WELL. >>HOST: EVEN IF YOU >>HOST: EVEN IF YOU >>HOST: EVEN IF YOU STOP >>HOST: EVEN IF YOU STOP THERE >>HOST: EVEN IF YOU STOP THERE ON >>HOST: EVEN IF YOU STOP THERE ON THE STOP THERE ON THE STOP THERE ON THE PILLOWS, STOP THERE ON THE PILLOWS, TONY STOP THERE ON THE PILLOWS, TONY YOU’LL STOP THERE ON THE PILLOWS, TONY YOU’LL BE PILLOWS, TONY YOU’LL BE PILLOWS, TONY YOU’LL BE OVER PILLOWS, TONY YOU’LL BE OVER THE PILLOWS, TONY YOU’LL BE OVER THE MOON PILLOWS, TONY YOU’LL BE OVER THE MOON WE PILLOWS, TONY YOU’LL BE OVER THE MOON WE STAY OVER THE MOON WE STAY OVER THE MOON WE STAY WITH OVER THE MOON WE STAY WITH ME? OVER THE MOON WE STAY WITH ME? I OVER THE MOON WE STAY WITH ME? I HAVE OVER THE MOON WE STAY WITH ME? I HAVE SOME WITH ME? I HAVE SOME WITH ME? I HAVE SOME NEWS WITH ME? I HAVE SOME NEWS ELLEN

How to Make a Roman Shade

Eric: This video’s brought to you by Sailrite. In this video, we’re going to show you from beginning to end how to build a standard Roman Shade. These Roman Shades are four panels that cover the windows in this home. We’re going to show you how to measure, how to sew them up, how to attach rings, how to attach the hardware, and then finally how to install them in your window. Let’s get started and show you how it’s done. Here’s Matt Grant from Sailrite to show us how to take measurements for your particular Roman Shades.

We’re going to measure for the Roman Shades that we’re going to install in these four windows. Before we start those measurements, I want to just talk about the fact that you can do these as an inside or an outside mount. We’re going to do an inside mount because we have enough depth in the window framing here. We’ve got just right at about 3” and a little bit more after the final trim. We need about 2” of depth to fully conceal the headboard of our Roman Shade so we’ll be in great shape here. So because we’re going to go inside mount, we really only need to get the height, or the length, of the Roman Shade and then we need to get the finished width of each shade.

I’m going to measure here and I am getting 51 3/8”. So we’ll confirm that measurement somewhere in the center here and I’ll do it here, and 51 3/8” again. We’ll confirm it over here at the edge, maybe both edges just to make sure everything’s square. Here I’m noticing I’ve got some handle hardware so I’m going to write down 51” for my height. I don’t want the bottom weighted bar in my Roman Shades crashing down on the window sill so I’d like to be just a little short and that certainly covers all of the exposed window glass.

Once we have the height, we’re going to get the width of each of the Roman Shades. I’m not going to take any reduction out for gaps between shades at this point. I just want to figure out what the maximum finished width of each shade can be. If I measure from the inside trim to the center of our molding here, I’m at 29”. So this first window I’m going to call 29”. Then I’m going to find the center of the trim and measure over and I’m at 30” here, and we’re 30” here, and we’re 29” over here. So we basically got two slightly narrower windows on the sides and then two slightly wider ones in the center.

I like to see the width of the finished Roman Shade panels be at least ¼” short on each side. In some cases a ½” less on each side, especially for larger window assemblies. So in this case we’re going to cut this one down by ¼” on each side so we’ll be at 28 ½”, and instead of our 30” here we’re going to be at 29 ½”, and then we’ll do likewise for these two. Eric: The first step in creating your Roman Shade is to cut the fabric to size. We’re going to take those measurements we just made and calculate what size fabric to cut.

We’re going to use a decorative fabric and a lining fabric on the backside. Using the measurements we just made, we need to add these to those measurements to determine the appropriate size fabric to cut. We’ve made those calculations and are now marking the fabric with a pencil, and we’ll cut it out with scissors. When using a pattern with a repeat, you need to take into consideration where the repeat will fall for your Roman Shades, especially if you have multiple shades. Here’s a look ahead at the four Roman Shades that we’re making. As you can see by the yellow boxes, we’ve considered where the repeat will fall.

Notice that we staggered it so that it looks pleasing to the eye and also centered it. Again, if your fabric has a repeat, it’s completely up to the end user where they want the repeat to fall. Since we’re building four Roman Shades, we’re going to need four panels of the decorative fabric and four panels of the lining fabric. We’re using that first fabric- the good fabric that we cut to size- and we’re placing it on top of the next run of fabric so we can determine the length of that as well, and also consider the pattern repeat (if that is important to you).

Now we’ll concentrate on the width of the face fabric. We’re going to place that pattern repeat- the large pattern- in the center. So we’ll take the calculations we made earlier to determine the appropriate width to cut, and we’ll strike lines on the fabric and cut it out with scissors. We cut our fabric from both sides so that our pattern- our large image in the center- was centered between the width. Now we have our one face fabric. Now we need to concentrate on cutting out the lining fabric. At the Sailrite website, you’ll find multiple choices for drapery and lining material, including blackout material. So be sure to visit the Sailrite website to pick yours today. We’ve marked the drapery lining material to the correct size for our window and are cutting it out with scissors. Now both the lining and the decorative fabric we did earlier is cut to the appropriate size.

Now all we need to do is sew those pieces together. We’ll lay the lining on top of the decorative fabric so the outside surfaces are facing each other. You’ll notice that our decorative fabric is actually too long. That’s because we calculated for the repeat in that. If you cut both your decorative fabric and lining fabric out to the correct length, yours will be even. Notice that the width of our decorative fabric is much wider than the lining fabric and that is intentional. The length is not. Your length may be exactly the same as your lining fabric. Starting from the bottom here, our pattern repeat will be perfect for our application. We’ll pin along the length of the fabric where the lining is lined up with the decorative fabric on the underside. We’ll use pins about every 6”-12” to be sure that our fabrics stay in the appropriate position as we take them to the sewing machine and sew. We’ll be using the Deluxe Magnetic Guide and ensure that we get a ½” stitch.

It’s very important that you stitch a ½” away from the raw edge of the fabric. The decorative fabric you see at the top when we first started this stitch is excess, mainly used to match up the pattern repeat. Yours may not have that. Sew all the way down its length and remove the pins as you approach them with the sewing machine. We’re using the Sailrite 111 Sewing Machine. This is a compound walking foot sewing machine, and this sewing machine has the MC-SCR Power System. Phenomenal sewing machine! When you get to the end, as you did at the beginning, reverse to lock your stitch in place. Now that the lining has been sewn to our decorative fabric, we’ll turn the panel around and line up the lining to the opposite edge of the decorative fabric. So now our lining will be pulled over so the decorative fabric actually folds at the other end. Match it up so the edges are exactly flush and then sew a ½” down that length as well.

You can sew these Roman Shades with a V-30 thread or home sewing machine thread. These are light fabrics and Sailrite stocks a plethora of great fabrics for Roman Shades. Brands like: Braemore, Brisa, Dena Home, Geobella, P/K Lifestyles, P/Kaufmann, Softline, Sunbrella, Tommy Bahama, and Waverly. Check them out at the Sailrite website and pick your favorite today. As discussed earlier, we’re going to trim off this excess fabric that is at the top, which was used to match up our pattern repeat. Angela’s now going to ensure that the fabric is laying nice and flat and that the lining fabric is centered on the backside of our fabric. The fabric is still turned wrong side out. She’s going to pin the bottom portion here. This is the bottom of our Roman Shade because we’re going to sew that shut.

She’s going to make sure that the sides are exactly the same so she’s measuring the seam here to be sure that it is exactly the same as the other side. Then she’ll take it to the sewing machine and sew a ½” from the raw edge of the fabric- reversing at the beginning- sewing all the way along its length to the other side.

Sewing shut this bottom edge, it would now be called a pillow case cover- one open end. Alright, when we get all the way to the end, we are now ready for the next step, and that is the placement of the dowels. That’s coming up in the next chapter. Angela’s now working from the top of the Roman Shade, and she’s going to ensure that the lining is positioned, or centered, along the backside of the fabric. To do that, she’ll measure the edges and be sure they’re equal from left side to right side, and then pin them in position along the top edge. So she’s going to take her ruler and measure this side as well and pin it in place. As she pins the sides, she is not pinning through the lining fabric. She’s only pinning through the decorative fabric. Angela is not going to place anymore pins in it right now until she ensures that it is centered. So she’s going to take measurements at several locations and she’ll place her pins to secure it in place as she positions each one of the dowels at its appropriate position.

So she’s just making sure the fold is right where it should be. Once you’re happy with where the seam lies, you could take it to an iron and iron it so it has a nice crease. But we’re not going to do that. We’re going to talk about the positioning of the dowels next. At the time when we were creating this video, Sailrite was in the process of creating a fabric calculator for Roman Shades. You may want to check that out at the Sailrite website. In lieu of that calculator, you can use the calculations here for the placement of each one of your dowels on your Roman Shade. Let’s calculate the measurements for our particular Roman Shade. You can see here, segments required are 7. The height of the main segments is 6.85” and the height of the lowest segment is 8.35”.

Those measurements will be the placement for the dowels. So these dash lines represent the dowels. However, for the lowest segment, we need to add 3” because we will be creating a hem there in a later step. Next we’ll measure up from the lower edge of our shade at the stitch line. That’s the stitch line that she just pointed to. We need to measure up our measurement for the lowest segment. Ours is 8.35”, but we need to add 3” to whatever your lowest segment measurement is for a hem that will created later on. That leaves our measurement at 11.35” for the lowest segment. Angela has marked that location with a pin. Now she measures up for the main segments.

Ours is 6.85” so she measures up to that location from that lower segment that we just marked on the fabric. Places a pin there as well. She’ll continue to measure up from each one of those pin locations until she’s done with the main segments. Angela has marked each one of the segment positions with a push pin. You can also use a pencil.

Now she’ll fold the material in half along its length to determine where the location should be placed on the opposite side of the fabric. This is an easy way to do it so you don’t have to measure all over again for the opposite side. Then she sticks the pushpins in that side as well. Or you can mark it with a pencil. Now we can unfold the shade and we can place wood dowels on top to determine how long they should be cut. We’re using a 3/16” wood dowel, though plastic dowels can be used as well. We want them about a ½” shorter than the width of the shade. Then we’ll cut them all to size. Again we’re using 3/16” wood dowels. We’ll be using Tear Mender that’s available from Sailrite to glue these dowels to the decorative fabric. Notice the decorative fabric backside, or inside, is facing up.

Gem-Tac may also be used. It’s typically used for gluing gem stones to fabric. You do not need to glue all the way across. Just a few dabs every 4”-5”. Notice how Angela has placed the dowel at her pushpin location and then dropped a few drips of the glue at the location on the backside of the good fabric and holds it in place. It does take a while for this to dry so be careful. Then she comes to the next location. The batten is about a ¼” underneath the pushpins, places a few drops there as well, and then rolls the wood dowel over the center of the drops. Our shades have 7 segments, which equal 6 wood dowels. They’ve all been glued in place. Now Angela places a few yardsticks on top to help hold the dowels down onto the glue while it dries. We’ve also placed a few of these shades in front of a fan to accelerate the glue dry time. Next we’ll concentrate on creating a hem at the bottom edge of the shade.

First remove all of the pushpins, if you used those to position the dowels, and we’ll need to turn the pillow case right side out. So even though there are dowels that are glued to the fabric, it is still not a very difficult process. It easily turns right side out. We’ll speed up the video here showing the process, but we don’t want to bore you with the process either (laughs). The bottom edge of our shade has already been sewn together. So we need to make sure that the corners are pushed out all the way. Once we’re happy the fabric is laying nice and flat, we’ll take it over to an ironing board and use an iron set on the appropriate setting for the fabric of your choice, and we’re going to create creases at the bottom edge and the sides of our shade. Using an iron to create the creases will give a beautiful appearance to your Roman Shade.

At the bottom edge of our shade, we’re going to fold the fabric up to approximately 3”. However, we’re going to measure where that fold should be located by using the lowest segment measurement. For us, it was 8 3/8” from the lowest dowel. So we’re ensuring that the lowest segment is our lowest segment measurement. Then we’ll pin the fabric at that location using the pushpins. Once it’s pinned in the appropriate position, we’ll take it over to the ironing board and iron the crease along the bottom edge. Now we’re going to use the sewing machine and place a straight stitch along the inner portion of that fold pulling the pins as we come upon them.

We’ll keep this stitch very close to the raw edge of that fabric, which is no longer really raw because it is a finished edge. So all the way to the other side, and as normal, do some reverse stitching at the beginning and do some reverse stitching at the end. This hem that we’ve just created will also serve as a sleeve for a heavier dowel rod. So we’ll sew from the bottom edge up approximately 1”, reversing there, and that will allow us to have an opening at the top that will be used to push the rod into the sleeve. We want to do that same procedure on the opposite side. We’ve purchased a metal rod at a hardware store, cut it to size, and we’ll push it into that sleeve that we created. The sewing at the ends will keep the rod from coming out. Now that the hem has been created at the bottom, we can measure up and cut our Roman Shade to the appropriate length.

For us, our length was 51”. So we’ll measure from that bottom edge up 51” and mark the fabric with a pencil. We’ll do that on both sides and then strike a straight line across the fabric. Do not cut on this line. We’ll be cutting above the line. This is where we want the actual finished edge to lay. Once the line is struck, we’ll cut approximately 1” up from the line. We are not cutting on the line.

We are cutting 1” up from the line, and we’re removing the excess fabric. Now we’re going to install a looped Velcro and fold the lining and the decorative fabric in to give it a finished appearance. We’re going to pin all that in place. Notice here Angela’s folding the lining fabric in and she’ll fold the decorative fabric in along the line that she struck along the lining so that that line is our top edge. Take your time and then pin the fabric in place. Sailrite strongly recommends using Velcro along the top edge of your Roman Shade. Using Velcro, you can make adjustments to how the Roman Shade actually sits in the window. We’ll be attaching a hooked Velcro to the headrail in a future step. For now, attach the loop Velcro to the top of the Roman Shade, as shown here.

Take your time and be sure that you fold the fabric along the line that you struck down so that your Roman Shade is the appropriate length when complete. We’ll then take it over to the sewing machine and sew the Velcro down the two long legs, reversing at the beginning to lock our stitch. When we come upon each one of the pushpins, we’ll remove the pins ensuring the fabric is still nice and flat, and sew all the way down the other side. We’ll do that same procedure to the other side of the Velcro. We’ll next be installing rings for lift lines.

Rings should be installed starting at the lowest dowel and then skipping every other dowel. Rings are typically spaced about 15” apart. Our shade will require 3 lift lines. Angela’s marking the position at the center of our shade every other dowel starting at the bottom. Now she’ll take some thread and feed it through a needle eye, and she will prepare to hand sew the rings in place at each location. Angela’s measured a length of thread that is almost the length of the entire shade curtain. She ties a knot at the end- a double knot- and cuts off the excess thread. We’re going to run this needle all the way down the length of the curtain. We’ll start here at the lowest dowel, push the needle through the fabric including the decorative fabric on the underside, around the dowel, and up through the fabric.

Then she’ll run the thread through the metal ring (that’s available from Sailrite), and back into the fabric through the ring, tie a few knots. You want to make sure that this ring is secured in position. You do not want your rings falling off. Because we’ve chosen to use metal rings from Sailrite, we don’t have to worry about those plastic rings that often are affected by the UV, become hard/brittle, and then eventually break. So we highly recommend ordering your sew on rings for Roman Shades from Sailrite. Either available in a brass or nickel finish. Once Angela is satisfied that the ring will not fall off, which she’s done a good job here, she’s sewn it to death, she will pass her needle in between the two fabrics and come out of the next dowel so she can get some breath, and then pass it down to the next dowel. So this way she doesn’t have to cut her thread and create knots again. This is a preference, not necessarily required.

So notice that she’ll come out here at that dowel that we want to skip- in other words, we do not want to install rings at this dowel- and then she’ll go back into the fabric and pass the needle between the two fabrics (the lining and the decorative fabric), coming to the next dowel and then inserting the ring at that location as well, just as we did previously.

So here she is, she skipped that one dowel and has come to the next dowel which does require a ring. You notice that we are installing the rings along the seam where the decorative fabric was sewn to the lining fabric. Not a bad idea. So she goes into the fabric, comes around the dowel, out through the fabric, and she’ll secure a ring just as she did previously here as well. We will not show all of this. Now that you know how to install the rings at each of the appropriate locations, you can do that for your shade. We also do want to show what it looks like from the surface, or the decorative fabric side.

We’re using a thread that is almost the same color, but as you can see here, it’s barely noticeable. So you don’t have to worry too much. We try to match the color if possible. Now we need to concentrate on making a headrail. We’re going to use some of the excess lining material. Fold it in half so that we have two layers, and we’re going to fold into the board. We’re using a 2” x 2” board, which actually measures 1 ½” x 1 ½” that we picked up at a hardware store and we cut it to size.

I like to cut the length of the headrail to the exact width of the finished shade. However, some people cut it ¼” smaller. Now we’ll wrap that fabric around the board, as shown here in the video, and staple it in place along the top edge. For our Roman Shade, we’ll be installing the headrail along the inner frame of the window. So the edge that we’re stapling will not be visible.

It will actually be screwed up against the ceiling at that location. We’re using a very nice Duo-Fast Electric Stapler, available from Sailrite. However, a simple Arrow Stapler that you may already have will work just as well. When we come to the end, we’ll cut off the excess fabric and we’ll wrap it as we do a Christmas present. You may want to use the end of a screwdriver to perfect how the tucks of the fabric look. Once you’re happy, you’ll staple the top side- the side that will be up against the ceiling. Now that our lining fabric has been secured all around the board, we want to turn the board so that the Velcro will be facing out. We’ll secure it in place with the stapler. You can use this great Duo-Fast Stapler, but it is rather expensive. You can also just use an Arrow Stapler that you may already have in your possession. Be sure to attach the hook side of the Velcro here since the loop has been attached to the curtain.

Now attach the curtain to the Velcro, make sure it’s centered and looks nice, roll the board around so that you’ll be working from the underside of the board, and that’s where we’ll be attaching our hardware for the lift lines. With a pencil, Angela is marking the center location above the ring and the side locations above the rings. Yours may have more or fewer. Then you can remove the actual curtain. Now we’ll attach screw eyes that we purchased from a hardware store at all three of those locations. For our Roman Shade, we’ve chosen to use a cord lock that we purchased from Sailrite. Let’s take a look at this cord lock.

On this end there’s a small opening. Then on the other, there’s a larger opening. The larger opening would go along the length of the headrail that has the majority of the cords. On the underside, you have a two wire system for our cord lock. We’re going to use some leechline here and cut it with a hotknife so we have a sealed edge and we’re going to run it through the large opening of the cord lock and down through the center of the actual lock system. Sailrite recommends installing the line through the cord lock prior to installing the lock to the actual headrail. At the bottom opening of the cord lock, there are wires to separate each one of the cords.

This cord lock will accommodate up to 6 cords. We need only 3 cords for the Roman Shade that this will be installed to. We’ll install the second line through the large opening side and down through the middle. In some situations, you may find it a little bit difficult to feed the cord through the middle. In those situations, you can use tweezers on the bottom side to help guide the line. Then our last line will be run through the small side of the cord lock and down through the center just as the other ones were done previously. The calculations for the length of cord to order will actually give you much more line than you need. In this situation, we’re not using tweezers, but a screwdriver to help exit the cord through the bottom of the cord lock. Here we go. The larger hole has the majority of the cords while the smaller hole on the one side only has one cord. We can install this cord lock on our headrail either on the left side or the right side. We’re installing it on our Roman Shade headrail along the left side.

We want that lock system to be screwed as close to that eye along the left side as possible. Just use screws that you can pick up at a hardware store and screw it in position. Now we’ll feed the cords that are coming out of the large hole of the cord lock through our eyes, as shown here in the video. On ours, we have three so this cord will run through the last screw eye. Then all the way to the left, in this situation it’s the right, but it will be installed on the left when we have our curtain, we feed it through the last eye. That’s all there is to installing the cord lock and the cords into the headrail system. Now we’ll fasten the fabric onto the headrail system via the Velcro. As you can see, the cord lock is on the right side; though, when you’re looking at the actual Roman Shade, the cord lock will be on the left side, as the outside surface is facing the table.

Now we’ll run the cord through each one of the rings, and we will not tie it to any of the rings except for the last. We’ll follow that same procedure for each one of the rings with each one of the cord locks. Then to keep the cords from unraveling, we’ll use a hotknife to seal the ends. Next we’re going to use the plastic lift cord condenser that you can purchase from Sailrite. With the curtain fully open and the cords being fairly taut, cut all of the cords at once so there’s about 6” of cord hanging below the cord lock. This condenser condenses the multiple curtain lift cords into one cord. For our curtain, we’re using fairly large line here so it’s a little bit difficult to squeeze it through the top of the condenser. So we’re pushing all 3 cords into the condenser and then being sure that they are all pulled evenly so that it’ll pull up the Roman Shade at the same rate, and we’ll tie a knot in the end of them. They will be contained inside the bell shape of the condenser.

The condenser should be approximately 2”-3” underneath the cord lock. If it’s not, reposition the knot. Now push the condenser over the knot and trim the cords at the bottom of the condenser. Now the knot is hidden. Now we’ll insert a length of cord through the condenser bottom, tie a knot in that- here we’re going to tie a double knot to be sure that it won’t come through- and then we’ll screw that onto the larger condenser top. Now we have 3 cords that transition into a single cord. If we were using smaller cord line, we would use this O-ring to keep the knot from pulling out of any one of the condenser ends.

Now we’ll install a tassel that we’ve picked for our shade, and we’ll tie a knot in the end of the cord, fastening it somewhere close to the middle of the shade. And that’s all there is to building a Roman Shade. Now all we need to do is install the headrail, or head rod. We’re back at the home now and we’ll drill a hole directly through the head rod board, all the way through the fabric, all the way to the other side. We’re going to be installing it in a wood molding so there’s no reason to use anchors for our application.

We’ll pull the curtain Velcro from the actual board and lower the curtain so that we have more room to insert our screws and work with the hardware up in the window. We’re going to insert some wood screws through the board so they just start to protrude through the underside of the board, which will be fastened to the ceiling. We’ve already installed 3 of our Roman Shade curtains. This is the last. With the curtain down, as you see here in the video, we can easily install the board, or headrail, into our window without the fabric getting in the way. Another advantage of using the Velcro. Be sure the board is positioned right where you want it and then screw it into place.

Then simply reattach the Velcro to the headrail. If necessary, position until everything is nice and straight and positioned perfectly. That’s all it takes to build a Roman Shade. You’ll find hundreds, if not thousands, of fabrics at the Sailrite website that are perfect for Roman Shades, including the lining fabric and even blackout fabrics. Be sure to visit the Sailrite website today. Coming up next is a detailed material list of all the supplies and tools that are required to build your very own Roman Shade.

To pick your decorative fabric and to pick your drapery lining fabric, be sure to visit the Sailrite website. Many of these items can be purchased at Sailrite. Some will have to be purchased at a hardware store or craft store. Here are the tools that are required or possibly helpful to help you build your very own Roman Shades. For more free videos like this, be sure to check out the Sailrite website or subscribe to the Sailrite YouTube channel today. It’s your loyal patronage to Sailrite that makes these free videos possible. Thanks for your support. .

How to Make a Pleated Seat Cover for a Motorcycle

This video is brought to you by Sailrite. In this video we are going to show you how to make your own pleated motorcycle seat cover. We will be transforming this seat cover into a beautiful pleated or channeled seat using supplies from Sailrite. This video will show how to pattern, how to sew pleats, create your own boxing, topstitching and of course stapling. Let’s get started… We are going to create a pleated top for this motorcycle seat. To do this we need to make a pattern for the top of the seat. We will use paper and trace around it with the seat turned upside down on top.

Fold the paper in half lengthwise and match up the lines as best as possible. Then cut the pattern out while it is still folded, this should create a uniform pattern. Our seat is rather small, so we will not worry much about shrinkage as the pleats are being sewn. However, if you are creating a larger panel which includes pleats we recommend you do some calculations for the amount of shrinkage that will naturally occur with each pleat. Each pleat will usually shrink the project by about an 1/8 inch, depending on the thickness of the scrim foam. Use these calculations to determine the cut length of the fabric and foam, so you do not end up with a panel that is too small for the job when done sewing the pleats.

To create our pleats we will be using the Polyurethane foam with fabric backing this is a ¾” form from Sailrite. Polyurethane foam with fabric backing ¾” is a wonderful scrim foam that is often used for creating pleats in fabric or sometimes called channeling. Polyurethane foam is backed with a Spun Bonded Polyester fabric and this fabric keeps the stitch from pulling thru the foam when channeling or pleating is done. In this video we are using it to create a pleated motorcycle seat, but it’s also great for boat and automotive upholstery applications and even for making handbags and purses. Polyurethane foam with fabric backing is available at Sailrite.com. We will now cut the foam, often called scrim foam, to the approximate size of the seat top, cut it bigger. This should also be done to the vinyl fabric. Once cut out we will now glue the fabric to the foam side, not the scrim side.

To accomplish this task we like to use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. We will spray only the underside of the vinyl fabric, but you could also spray the foam as well. Now simply apply the vinyl fabric to the foam side and press down being sure all wrinkles are removed. Gluing the fabric to the foam will ensure that it does not easily move around while the pleats are being sewn in. It is a very important step, so do not skip it! Our desired pleat width is 1 1/8 inch, yours may be different. So, we will mark the underside of our foam with the spun bond fabric scrim to 1 ¼ inch. Why the 1/8 inch more? Because when each pleat’s top stitch is completed it will shrink the fabric and pleat by about an 1/8 inch. So the resulting pleat will be about 1 1/8 inch when done. Let’s rewind and take a look at the first pleat marked on the foam. You will notice that this first pleat marked is about an extra ½ inch away from the edge of the fabric. That space will be for the seam allowance of a ½ inch.

So do not just start right at the edge of the fabric marking your first pleat 1 ¼ inch away, but add a ½ inch for seam allowance for that first pleat. This ½ seam allowance should be factored in for the last pleat on the opposite end as well. Always be sure your bobbin is full before sewing pleats, you do not want to run out of thread in the middle of a pleat. Angela will carefully position the needle over the line she marked on the panel and then will slowly sew down the length of pleat being diligent to guide the fabric so the stitch stays as straight as possible over the line. Since we will be cutting the edges off this panel we will not do any reverse stitching to lock the stitch in place. Sewing thru foam and vinyl fabric will possibly play tricks with your tension, so it is best to test on scrap first. Too much tension will cause excessive wrinkling of the fabric. Just because we marked the underside of the foam for our pleats does not mean you have to do that.

If you like to keep a close eye on your tension and how it looks from the topside. You can mark the fabric pleat lines on the vinyl side and sew with that side up. Just be sure the lines will easily come off the fabric so you may want to use a grease pencil or other fabric marking pencil. Next we will lay our pattern on top of the finished panel and trace around it. We will not be adding any seam allowance here since the pattern is a little on the large size and will be pulling it firmly over the seat bottom to make a tight fitting cover. This should position our boxing seam right along the outer edge of the seat when finished. To cut our boxing to size we need to take some measurements off the seat. We will measure from the top edge to the bottom side of the seat where it will be stapled. Do not short yourself, better to have extra width than not enough. Then we will measure around the seat sides to ensure we have enough length, again go extra by a few inches at least.

Now simply cut a boxing strip to the width desired and the length. Fold the assembly in half and mark the center location. Do the same with the seat top that is pleated. We will sew the boxing starting at the front side of the seat positioning the center lines directly on top of each other. We want to sew our straight stitch about a ½ inch away from the raw edges of the fabric. And we will do some reversing here to lock the stitch in place. As it is being sewn down we will carefully line up the raw edges as we sew. Notice that Angela is pulling ever so slightly on the pleated panel and the boxing.

This is typically not something that is done with regular sewing, but with a channeled fabric like this we want it to laying fairly flat when the boxing is secured. So, a slight pull often results in a better looking finished project. Watch carefully to see how much she is pulling the fabric, too much pulling and your project will be ruined, so be careful. When she gets to a corner she will carefully line up the edges and sew around slowly. Here we are coming to the backside of the seat. We have only sewn down one side, the other side is still not sewn. We want to stop short of the center line by about 2 inches. This unsewn area will make it possible to sew the two half’s of the boxing ends together at the rear of the seat in a later step. Here’s the unsewn part you can see it is approximately 2 inches from the center line. To sew the opposite side flip the assembly and again start sewing at the front of the seat’s center line. Sew around just as you did with the opposite side stopping a few inches away from the back of the seat’s center line yet again.

You notice now the boxing is on top and the pleated fabric is underneath, that is because we flip the assembly to sew this side. Also take note to see how much Angela pulls the boxing and the pleated fabric as she sews. Just as she did earlier. Ok we are coming up the seat’s back center position and we stop a few inches from the center line. To join the boxing ends together try to determine where they should come together by walking them along the unsewn section of seat top. Then hold them together at that location and take them to the sewing machine and sew down the boxing length at that exact location, being careful to keep the stitch at a 90 degrees from the boxing’s bottom edge, another words straight. Here it is sewn and you can see it is perfect. Cut away any extra length of boxing, but leave at least a ½ inch or more going past the stitch we just sewed. We will cut a strip from the left over boxing that is about 1 inch wide. We will splay the backside of the boxing seam open and place this 1 inch strip of fabric over the splayed section of the fabric.

We are creating a French seam here. A French seam has a top stitch on both sides of the main center seam. Here is a quick illustration to show how we will accomplish this French seam. With the fabric spayed open and the extra strip of fabric on the bottom side Angela will now carefully sew a stitch about an 1/8 away from the first stitch using here presser foot as a guide to help keep it straight.

As with any top stitch as you sew be sure to pull the center seam apart to keep it flat and in the center. Once the top stitch is done on one side switch to the next side and repeat the process. It is always a good idea to sew on the same side of the presser foot, if you’re using that as a guide. That is why she flipped the panel around here. Now go back and finish off the area which was left unsewn. After this is done we will sew a single top stitch to the boxing where it is sewn to the top of the seat. We will do that in the next step. To sew our top stitch we will need to turn the cover right side out. And then we will sew about a 1/8 inch away from the first stitch being sure to catch the bottom flap of fabric as we sew. It is best to place this top stitch on the boxing and not the top channeled plate.

Here Angela is starting at the back side of the cushion where the French seam was just created. She did a little bit of reversing and then continues to go around using her presser foot as a guide. Note, as she sews she pulls on the two halves of fabric so it is nice and flat and laying open on the center seam. When we get to the back side do some more reversing and you are done. Next up we will staple this cover to the seat. We have fit the cover over the seat and will now staple it in place. We will start be stapling the front and rear of the seat first. We are using the EZE ½” crown stapler with Stainless Steel staples. This is a pneumatic stapler. These ½” crown staples are wider than normal crown staple of 3/8″ so they resist splitting the vinyl fabric. Here’s a demo showing stapling the same vinyl fabric the first is a standard 3/8″ crown staple and now with the EZE ½” crown stapler. Watch as we pull on the vinyl, you can see the ½” crown does not pull thru the vinyl as easily as the 3/8″ crown does.

Also because we it is a pneumatic stapler you can turn down the PSI amount on your air compressor to reduce the force that is applied to the staple which in turn helps to keep the staple from driving in too deep and thus cutting the vinyl fabric. Now that the front and back are stapled in place we will secure the sides pulling the fabric over the seat and checking for a good fit and look. The EZE TC-08 Staple Gun with ½ crown is a reasonably priced staple gun for upholstery applications and it is sold at Sailrite.com. If you do not want to spend the money on a new staple gun you can use a standard Arrow brand stapler to do this job also.

We recommend using stainless steel staples or monel staples. Once stapled in place just trim away the excess fabric with scissors. Our pleated or channeled motorcycle seat is now complete. Coming up next is the materials and tool list that we used to make this pleated or channeled motorcycle seat cover. For more free videos like this be sure to check out the Sailrite website or subscribe to the Sailrite YouTube channel.

It’s your loyal patronage to Sailrite that makes these free videos available, thanks for your loyal support! I’m Eric Grant and from all of us here at Sailrite, thanks for watching! .

Introducing Purple Sheets. Stretchiest, Comfiest, Bamboo Sheets Ever.

Story: Your sheets, cheap or expensive, are ruining your life. I’m just kidding, that’s a little bit too far, but they are making your bed less comfortable. That’s why I got Purple Sheets. Purple® Bed Sheets are soft, strong, stretchy. because these sheets are just… If you don’t wake up each morning feeling like you wrestled with a grizzly bear then you’re sleeping in the wrong kind of sheets. I’m a flannel man. Lies peasant, lies! Only Egyptian cotton with thread count so high the number cease to have meaning offer the finest form of slumber. Come again! Sleeping with flannel is like having typhoid fever without the chance of death. It’s so hot, it wraps you in spree arms and bleeds the sweat right out of ya. It’s so rugged it covers ya in manly rashes. Wash ’em out, Rockets! Imagine… sleeping on it hippogriff, the wind in your face as you embrace and spoon a cloud…

That’s cotton. Tough, tried–and–true, flannel does the job for you. Egyptian cotton is divine. Flannelllll! …ENOUGH! They’re bed sheets. You shouldn’t have to choose between sheets made from a high end bologna. My mom made me bologna all the time. Purple® Bed Sheets for the no-nonsense sleep better solution. For people who obsess over sheets, like me. Definitely me, but you as well! For people who don’t give a rat’s buttocks.

Like him. Got ya. Other sheets suck the comfort soul right out of the mattress, by being too tight or too ridgid. It creates a drum over the bed that your body can’t conform to. You don’t put bunny ears on a 4K T.V., do you? on your sweet mattress purple bed sheets maximize the comfort of your bag it’s the only bed sheet that’s made from bamboo fabric that’s also super stretchy it’s like a 1980’s superhero Oh my gosh, stop.

Cut it, cut! Curtis, get out of here. Look at the competition. It’s rigid and stiff, and so very rigid. Oh man we’re talking stone tablets over here, okay. Look at Purple! Oh my gosh, look at the stretch here! You seeing this? Now are you looking at this? There’s so much stretch to it. Sometimes in my room, I like to sleep in a stretchy pants and these stretchy sheets.

See the stretch? But look, Grizzly, Purple® Bed Sheets are durable without being uncomfortable or scratching. Shouldn’t have to feel like a high school dance when you go to bed. Did you know that Purple® Bed Sheets are sups breathable and airy? and super soft without being stiff and this heavy duty elastic band on the fitted sheet means that actually fit and stays on the mattress How sweet is that?! No more sheet battles. Okay Okay Wow Can we nominate these for the Noble Sleep Prize? Wait a second. We’ve got it! I thought this would be bigger, but it’ll do. Purple® Bed Sheets are soft and strong, seamless, stretchy, cool, comfortable, and easy to clean all at the same time. Your sheets should unleash endless possibilities of comfort for your bed. If you have a bad and want unleash it, click here! Hello.

Look at. Baby! Baby, baby oh! .

T-Pain Reviews the Purple Mattress

Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls. Children of all age. It’s your homeboy T-pain, the official product tester of fancy.com. Now fancy.com usually sends me products to test out. Hence, product tester. And I love testing out all these products it’s one of my favourite things to do in the day. But you know my favorite kind of product to test? The kind I can go to sleep on. Ladies and gentlemen I would like to introduce to you Purple! Purple is a new, innovative mattress that I mean is probably the most comfortable thing in my house besides my gut according to my wife.

Purple is definitely not like your memory foam mattress. Here’s a fun fact: memory foam was created ten years before VHS. That’s right VHS! You don’t even know what that is. Purple is the world’s first no pressure mattress. You think about the memory foam mattress that you got right now, I’m pretty sure you got one, and it sinks. Stays where it is. It smells, especially when I get off of one.

You don’t want to smell that, at all. It gets real warm too, that’s another thing I don’t really like about warm mattresses ain’t really my thing, and over time you begin to lose support so what’s the solution? Purple! Super dope mattress! 26 patents and 25 years of of comfort innovation by an actual rocket scientist. You know how people always say “Oh, it’s not rocket science!” Yes it is it actually is! The purple masters uses a Hyper-Elastic Polymer a.k.a. Purple. It cradles your pressure points to relieve pain everywhere on your body and you’ll have better spinal alignment.

It’s really the best of both worlds. it’s firm and it’s soft. That means no more pain and better sleep. I’ve looked online at the purple Mattress and most of the reviews are people talking about how their aches and pains are gone within weeks of sleeping on the purple mattress. It’s actually pretty cool. This is pretty comfortable. I don’t know how successful I’m going to be getting up after filming this. Terrible idea to film this like this. The open grid, waffle like design helps air flow through the mattress, so it helps you sleep cool like Billy Dee Williams. Now if you’re anything like me, that helps you avoid that swamp canoe that you wake up to on the memory foam mattresses. You just in a in a whole little tight spot and you’re sweating and you’re stinking and farting a few times. A lot going on You don’t want that. Now I can shoot this commercial like this because they gave me a hundred day trial if I don’t like it I can ship it back within a hundred days, even if I farted on it already. Pretty good. Good idea. All-in-all, the Purple Mattress so far so good I don’t know how I’m going to get up. It’s the Purple Mattress.

Feels good so far. I got 99 days left to tell them otherwise. I don’t think I’m sending it back now. This is your boy T-Pain, official product tester fancy.com. See you next time! .

Halloween Inspired Sushi Roll Recipe

Welcome back to another cooking video. I’m Chef Devaux and today we’re going to do a very special Halloween inspired sushi roll with black sushi rice and dehydrated carrot on the outside. It’s a very special new concept, I hope you guys enjoy it. Don’t be freaked out by my eyes – let’s go. Okay, let’s get going. What you’re going to need is a carrot, and then what you want to do is clean it. For this I am just going to take a knife and just smooth and cut off the skin of the carrot. You don’t have to do it this way, I just like to do it this way. I like to use my beautiful knives, but you can just use a normal peeler to peel off the skin. No problems there. I am going to just quickly peel this off. I love using the knife this way. I just love using my knives, it’s a pleasure to work with these in the kitchen.

That’s I think what it’s all about. While I am talking about this knife, if you guys want to buy it, you can check it out on my website in you’re in Europe by clicking on the top left corner of your screen. If you’re not in Europe then click underneath it to go to my website to check out the knives in America. I am going to just cut off the edges and then discard all this excess. Now I am going to use a micro-plane or you can use a cheese grater or something else to grate the slivers of carrot. Watch out for your fingers, not to scrap your fingers away. At the end don’t bother getting the last little bit, just eat the big chunk of carrot. It’s pretty delicious. Once you’re done, you take your grated carrot and you spread around on one of these levels of the dehydrator.

What you want to do is spread it out very thinly and you want to fill up all the trays. If you want one of these you can check it out by clicking on the top left corner of your screen. They’re pretty cheap to buy and they’re pretty cool to put stuff into. What’s going to happen is it’s going to blow hot air through it and over the course of a day it’s going to dehydrate it to crispy carrots. Here we go, it’s been overnight and I’m just going to turn it off. Then this is the crispy outcome of the carrot. It’s really crunchy, crispy, amazing texture. It’s just great, it’s like carrot chips. You can make carrot chips if you just use a cheese knife instead. You can create thin strips. What you want to do is you want to take these and put them away from humidity. Put them inside an air-tight tube like this and just pack it in there completely and seal it up. It’s very important to keep away any humidity because the slightest bit of dampness and these carrots will become soggy.

You really don’t want that to happen. You can store this away for quite a while just so long as you store it and it doesn’t become a little bit oxidized. Try to use it as fast as possible. Now for the rice. What you want to make is black water. This is basically just squid ink and water, what I am using is about 5 to 6 grams of squid ink for every hundred milliliters of water. I am adding this water into the sushi rice. Here I am just going to add the squid ink, you can buy this usually by the fish mongers and if you just ask, someone will know somewhere close to you a place to buy it. What you want to do is just blend the squid ink with the water and this will just infuse it together.

If you just whisk it you seem to get little lumps of squid ink in the water and you don’t want that. You want it to be one beautiful liquid. Now I am going to add this water to my sushi rice just like you would normally. I washed the sushi rice already and now I am just going to cook it inside the rice cooker. If you don’t know how to make sushi rice, check out the sushi rice recipe by clicking on the top left corner of your screen and you’ll go to my website where you’ll see my recipe.

This is the highlight, I am not showing you the quantities or anything like that. Just go to the website there at the top left corner to figure that out. But look at this rice, it’s now deep black colors, it’s an awesome change from what you always have in sushi rice, which I find very interesting. Now just like normal I am going to season it with sushi rice vinegar mix, just slightly drizzle it over and then just spread it among inside. Now to use the rice, take half a sheet of Nori, place it on a cutting board and then place 120 grams of sushi rice, that’s about 4 ounces, and spread it out nice and softly and quickly.

Just don’t press it down too much. A tip here – use wet hands, slightly damp so the rice doesn’t stick to your hands as much. Now put a bamboo rolling mat inside a plastic bag and flip it over so the rice is now underneath and the Nori is on top. Now you take a beautiful piece of sashimi grade salmon, you can check out what sushi grade salmon is by clicking on the top left corner of your screen.

And just roll it over, this you want to close it before it reaches the end, and then just seal it now, and then roll it over one more time just to shape it and press again. There we go, that’s your sushi roll, done. Now to cut it. I am just going to move it slightly, take my knife and just wipe it on a damp cloth so the rice doesn’t stick to it much.

And then just slice it in half, wipe it again, keep wiping in between cuts, and you’re going to cut the halves into quarters now, and the quarters into eighths. Now the other quarter into an eighth, then I’m going to go back to the other half and cut that into quarters again, and those quarters into eighths. Here we’ve got eight pieces of sushi. Now I am going to reshape it again just in case any rice might have gone out of shape – perfect, and now I’m going to remove the side pieces because I find they are not that beautiful.

You can eat them. Now I am going to add my crispy carrot which we made earlier on top of the sushi roll. The reason why I am adding this at the end after cutting and not before is because this stuff becomes soggy so fast like I said before. If you put it on before and then you cut it and you press it into the sushi roll, what happens is it just becomes a soggy mess and it’s just not what I’m looking for. By adding this after I cut it, it remains crunchy and crispy and it’s an experience, it’s something special. Again I just going to put some more on top, be generous with this and cover it all the way around the sushi roll pieces.

Be careful to keep all the pieces together so you don’t get crispy carrot stuck on the salmon. You only want it on the outside of the sushi roll. Get a nice beautiful cover, nearly done. There we go, just put this to one side. Take a plate to plate up, beautiful Japanese plate. Now I am going to take a sushi roll piece and place it onto the plate like this. There we go, take another one, put it behind. You can plate up with the entire roll but I am going to just show you two. Then put a little bit of pickled ginger and a little bit of fresh wasabi. There we go, perfect. This is the Halloween sushi roll done! Okay so this is the end of the video. I hope you enjoyed it. If you found this video useful then don’t forget to hit the Like button down there or share this on Facebook, Google+ or Twitter, whatever you use.

Now if you haven’t done so already, subscribe to my channel by clicking on the top left corner of your screen, and check out all my other videos that I made – which are a lot now – by clicking on the right. Last but not least, last year I made a sushi ball inspired by Halloween video with little rice balls and orange with salmon, and Nori, to make your pumpkin faces.

You can check that out by clicking on the left right now. Thanks for watching, see you guys next week – good bye. END .

DIY Platform Bed With Floating Night Stands (Plans Available)

Picture yourself walking into your room and absorbing the feeling of accomplishment This is the feeling I get when I walk in this space Let me take a few seconds to give you the detail on this build the majority of this platform bed was made entirely from 8-Inch lumber from Your local hardware store featuring two floating nightstand with the idea of saving space and not jeopardizing Functionality the next only has a place to store your lamp but on the inside I also have a place to store a book and IPad and anything that you want within arm’s reach and also let’s not forget the electrical outlet providing you two ports to charge your lamp Or any device and one of my most important features of this build is the on and off switch That control the undermount led puck lights and with the added lights these gives off a luxury feel within the space and with the whopping 116 inch headboard back with Led strips to set the mood in your space Hey, what’s up guys? I’m going with Diy creators and today I’m going to making a modern platform bag for the bedroom actually be getting a ton of requests to make a bed and actually we Do the bed so you know I like like you know? I love leds, and I’ve had to find a way to incorporate them and with this build This is basically a temporary bed for me and what I mean by that is there’s a lot of work I need to do in this room gotta paint the wall.

I replaced the floors a lot of things I want to do and this bed is not what I had in my dream bedroom But it’s a space right now And it should for the time being actually like the way this one came and hopefully you guys are in this one, so if you check out in the video description You should see all the information about the bed how much it costs and other details about it? So if you have any question you can check there you can just ask me any comments And I’ll get back to you and with that being said let’s do it For this project you do not need a ton of tools But there’s a ton of cutting and I would totally recommend a miter saw if you don’t have one. Maybe you can borrow one you can rent from your local hardware store your next option would using a circular saw and You’d probably want to use a jig to cut those just so you have some consistency I do have a jig that I made a while back So you can check that out or you can check out into one of the circular saw cutting guides And that should help you along with this project There’s a ton of cutting with this project and majority of it is all repetitive So I’m just going to make all my cuts and then you can see here’s all the finishing pieces that I’ve cut down to size And now that everything is cut I can now move on to sanding Now you only need one sander for this project, but since I had the luxury of having two of them I decided to put both them to use I used one with 80 grit sandpaper on it and then I use the other one with 120 grit Sandpaper on it now keep in .

If you have a thickness planer, and this is probably the time to use it That is number come pretty rough So there’s a ton of work prepping them and smoothing them out and I do this process over and over again And then I finally finish sanding them off with 120 grit sandpaper I’m not sure how well this works, but I was doing everything in my power to speed up the process for the bed frame I’m going to use a glossy latex black paint so applied paint I’m using a foam roller and this gave me the best chance of getting a good finish without putting out a paint sprayer For the backing on the headboard I use plywood and those gonna come in 8-foot section So the thing is I need to extend those and I use plywood Glue and also pocket hole screws just to extend it to the width that I need The bed Frame is painted black and to keep a consistent look I painted the bottom part of the headboard as well So that it blends in at this point the plywood is pretty heavy on its own, but more and more add foot on it It’s going to get heavy in heavier each time so it’s important secure the plywood in place as you the pieces Of course having a helping hand with total make your job a whole lot easier But if you don’t have the luxury of that the clamps work, just fine After adding all the lumber the headboard became extremely heavy if I had to guess it was probably between 300 and 400 pounds Being that I’m so close to the edge is best to pre-drill so that I don’t split the lumber So secure the lumber to the plywood I add a two screw per board approximately every 24 inches Due to the size of the headboard your eyes will be drawn it more than anything else on the bed So in this case Doujin design the way you like Maybe you want to carry the wood across the entire width of the plywood in this case for me I wanted to see that line going back and forth I wanted that stagger look I just continue the same step over and over until I get to the last row For the finish I use a dark walnut danish all apply with the rag now if you like the color darker You can always add more and more layers, but I was pretty satisfied with the tone of this one now Let’s move the focus over to the floating Nightstand each Nightstand will have the same set up make life a little easy I’m going to cut out the junction box opening so that we can install those later on Using a Jigsaw will make quick work of removing this section if you don’t have a jigsaw you can always drill a bunch of holes And then chisel out the rest if you feel like you like a challenge And you want to do this by hand you can always use a coping saw go this route.

It’s a lot of work, but it’s still an option To assemble the Nightstand I’m going to use dowels Now dowels can be frustrated in the work with because you have to be pinpoint on to make sure everything line up You should mark both pieces of wood at the same time that way you have a reference when you use the dowel jig This dowel jig by Rockler actually have a center line them it you place the center line on the marking You’ll be more than likely to get a straight hole drilled Before applying glue.

It’s always best to test to make sure everything fits. Well as a reminder mark both pieces the same so I know which to go together to ensure that my Accuracy was on I just marked drilled mark drilled And I did the same thing all the way around for each side on each box wasn’t sure about a quarter inch dowels, so decided to beef those up with and This pretty self-explanatory I’m just going to add a ton of glue in the hole on the joints and also on top of the dowels as well And after this part is done. It’s time to bring out the clamps once the glue dries That’s what the majority of the strength comes from so you want to be sure that you clamp this down as tight as possible If you don’t build often enough and don’t further need to own clamps which you could do is use screws and Wood glue at the Joints Then use wood filler to cover the screw heads My intention is to have the end table an inch or two inch lower than the top of the bed next going to measure And mark the inside of the end table Then I’m going to drill a few pilot holes going all the way through the headboard just to mark the backside of the end table I want this switch to be somewhat hidden But also in the location that I can get to it easily and this switch is meant to turn on the puck light that’s going To be below the end table the light that I plan put here comes in a kit And it also has a tail on it, so what I’m going to do to keep the your hidden I’m going to drill up, but at an angle so the way you come out through the back so at this point It’s a good idea to just mark everything while the end table is in place even though outlet and with the end table removed I Can now drill all the holes out for the bolts to pass through the last bolt? I just drew actually fell into the opening of the outlet so I had to redo that one The NCA was meant to be removable this way you can remove it and move the headboard around that will notice I have tape on My drill bit as an indicator so that I didn’t exit out the other side of the table This is the location that I plan to put the on and off switch for the puck legs Since I can’t get my drill to drilling from the inside I’m going to attach a piece of wood and drill in from the backside and this way I can avoid any major tear outs I drew the 3/4 hole, but it seems like it’s a tight fit So I just have to wobble out the hole just a little bit to accept the switch after and applying the Danish oil as I did previously now going to add wipe-on poly urethane as a top coat for this finish after applying the first coat of polyurethane And then went back with a 400 grit sandpaper sand that down then I applied one more coat onto it You can do it a third time to get it even better finish, but I was happy with a second coat Since I wanted to achieve the glowing effect behind the headboard I decided to add some Strips of wood going around and this would serve a couple of things one is a resting area for the leds sit But also help kicks the bed off the wall So when I plug the power cord in it doesn’t interfere with the headboard not I have the headboard in the room I’m going to add the electrical wire and that’s going to go from one outlet to other outlet Here’s the puck that I shown previously in the video I’m just going to cut the plastic Connector off of it Pass the wire through that was drilled and then screw the light into place These led puck light comes in a kit, and I really like the low profile of them and I have links to these down in the video description, you have the on off switch for these I’m going to use some spade Connectors which are called push on Connectors or many different names ? Terminated those to a piece of wire pass the wire through the hole and then I can insert the switch So getting a switch in the hole was a pretty tight fit, but I made it I left all the wires pretty long so I can pass them the pre-drilled hole that was done early on in the video and now that all the cables pass through I should have the wiring for the puck light the electrical and also the wiring for the switch and After getting the end table under the headboard I can now install the bolts Now I can fasten all the down and keep everything neat and out of the way before screwing the will into place I actually tested out the leds just to see get the best glow and I found that place in it one inch away From the Edge actually gave me a go that I actually like turns out the led strip was pretty close to of the going around the entire perimeter So I didn’t have to add or cut any off Drew the half inch hole then forced the Connector through the hole I probably could use a different method here because I had a tough keeping the cable flat while it was passing through the hole Since I have a ton of option the receiver would sit in this general area allowing me to pass the Ir receiver Just outside the hole and to keep everything in place I’m just going to apply a ton of hot glue to create a plug that I can plug in the wall I’m going to take an old extension cord cut off the end and I’m going to use that wire so that I can make the connection Since I’m actually hiding the two outlets behind the bed I need to bring some outlets back to the front of the bed, so I’m going to try to keep these hidden as well But the cool thing these outlet Is they actually have a uSb port on them? These outlets are fairly simple to hook up you have a green wire goes the green terminal Ground you have a white wire or in this case.

It’s a yellow wire and that goes to the silver screw Which is your neutral and the next wire you have left over is the black wire that goes to your gold terminal? That’s your hot leg coming in this old extension cord that I have actually have two white legs on it So I need to do a continuity test to figure out which one is the hot leg or the neutral once I find the hot Leg I colored it with a black sharpie So the outlet on the far hand only has one wire at that location this actually has two wires the one that comes from the other outlet and the other one that goes to the wall and Since I’m in the us I’m only going to address the outlet that I’m most familiar with If thinking with electricity is not really your thing what you do is work on a circuit with it unplug or powered off Once you’ve wired it up You can the inexpensive tester like this one to take it your circuit is correct Or is incorrect will also tell you that if you hooked up a wire Backwards or if you have an open ground or hot or even a neutral now? It’s really important that you use a junction box so that nothing gets out of place Now that I’m done with the time to work on the and here.

I’m going to use terminal block now I was planning to explain what I was doing here, but then I realized that after I finished wiring this up It actually looked pretty complicated so I’m going to create a diagram just to give you a basic and Simplified version of what I’m doing here now the reason why I went this route because I to easily disconnect the end table if I needed to move the bed at a later period Because I will be getting rid of this bed at some point So to clarify this area.

I have my power card here this will get plugged in the wall And this will give power to my outlets here I have a transformer that would be powering the leds and also to pluck lights I mean this headboard is really heavy, so I’m really surprised to see how the hand table. Hold is up like a champ After the headboard goes up I won’t be able to get behind it because it’s so massive and so much work I have to do to get there With the headboard being so heavy I used a three inch screw going through the headboard and right into the wall I only have one in the middle But if you want to be extremely safe you can always had three of them one in the middle and two on the head Once you attach the bed frame. It. Ain’t going anywhere to hold the bed frame that yet I’m going to use these thick brackets and the biggest thing about this design is being able to take it back apart And that’s why I designed it the way.

I did because at some . I’m going to get rid of the bed This is just a temporary fix for my room So somebody’s going to get this bed, and I’m going to use to get it out of here by taking it apart in Addition to add in the brackets I was planning to add dowels what a two piece of wood meat But it was so strong decided to go away from that now after in the bracket you can see it interferes with a piece of wood I had So I have to notch that out just so I can get the wood to fit I wanted the support piece to be flush with the top part of the bed frame Using the combination square was a huge help after setting the depth going around I can then take a combination square eliminating the use of a tape measure after a piece along the foot side of the bed Then actually help out when it comes to lining up the center beam because I didn’t have to measure or find what the center was Somehow I forgot to pick up enough corner brackets which I plan add here in the middle But I didn’t want to break away from the project and go pick up any so I use these L brackets and these actually worked Out just fine I just staggered them one on one side one at the bottom and one at the top did the same thing on the opposite side I Only put one full day of work into this project the other days was like in small spurts So actually felt like I was never going to get done with this project until I started adding these support pieces I Add a two screws per connection point that would be at both ends and also in the middle To secure the lip of the bed to the frame I’m going to use some corner brackets on the inside and also on the outside going to the total of four per side Now all I have to do is line up, and then I can move on to screwing it from the inside Well, if you ask me it looks strong enough, and you’re probably wondering what do I do at the end well here? I’m going to use a mending plate And I’m using this plate to attach it from the bottom and this is a perfect situation for that because that keep the two pieces of wood flush with each other Also, added some smaller bracket that was secured a lip from the inside After adding the bracket to the outside this provided the strength that I was looking for now You cannot see this bracket when you look at the bed unless you bend down and look under it But one thing I could’ve did was actually the spray-painting that I would have blend in better now I did take a lot of and maneuvering to get the bed Fine-tune that I have the proper spacing on both sides now all I have to do is attach the bed frame to the headboard Throw the quarter inch plywood on top just throw a few screws in it secure it in place Throw the bed on there, and we’ve done I really had to cut a victory dance out of this one because I just went crazy.

I was so happy this project We’re done. Hope you guys like this one. Hope you like this one And that’s it for this one guys be sure to like subscribe And I love to hear your thoughts on this one if you have any questions, just leave them down in the comments And I’ll get back to you as soon as I can and be sure to follow me on at Diy creators 2015 and I want to give a big shout out and thank you to my friends over on Patreon for supporting the channel if you’re Able, please consider supporting the channel as well, so we can continue to make content like this.

Have a good one guys you .

Percale vs. Sateen Sheets – What’s the Difference?

Katie Golde: Hey guys, it’s Katie from Mattress Clarity. Today, we’re talking about the difference between percale and sateen sheets. Now, if you’ve been sheet shopping in the last century, you probably have seen these labels, and you may not know what they mean. They refer to different types of weaves. It’s important to know what they are because they affect the overall feel and experience you’re going to have with the sheets.

I’m going to talk about the similarities, the differences, and who I think they’re a good fit for. We’re also going to get an up-close look at both different types of sheets so you can get the best idea on what’s going to be the right one for you. Let’s dive into these sheets. Katie: I do have one quick question for you. I want to know, after you watch this video, if you’re more “Team Percale” or “Team Sateen.” Which one do you think is going to be the best fit for you? Don’t hesitate to comment below.

Let me know. Write “Percale” if you like percale sheets, “Sateen” if you like sateen. I’m checking back, and I want to know which one you like. Personally, I’m Team Percale, but I think that they’re pretty much great across the board. Of course, if any questions come up, leave them there, too. I’m always checking back. I want to talk to you about these sheets. First of all, both percale and sateen sheets are woven with different fabrics from all different manufacturers. You’re going to see them in cotton, bamboo, and linen. What it means is how they’re woven, but the other thing that they have in common is that they’re both used with long-staple fibers.

For example, the ones I have in my lap right here are long-staple cotton. That means is that they’re more durable and they’re softer compared to short-staple cotton, which is not going to hold up as much. If you see these weaves in any fabric just know that they’re going to be synonymous with a higher quality sheet. You can’t go wrong with either. Let’s dive into each one, and I can give you an idea of which one’s going to be the best fit for you. Now, it’s time to learn a little bit about more about the percale sheet. They are very popular. You’ll see them all over the place.

In fact, I’m sitting on a set of cotton percale sheets, as well as holding them up right now to give you an idea of the fact that they are everywhere. I want to talk to you about how they’re made first and why that results in the kind of fabric that it does. Percale, the weave itself is very simple. It’s a one-under/one-over weave. Think about summer camp potholder loom making, very simple basic construction. That results in a crisp, lightweight feel. These are cotton sheets, so bear that in mind. They can come in different fabrics. There’s something called a “Hand-feel” in the sheet world. That means how does it feel on your hand? I’m going to show you. It definitely has that, again, crisp is the best way to describe it. The cotton rustling is happening. It does drape nicely over my hand, it is really soft. It does hold its own. It’s got its own structure. For a better example, think of a nice hotel sheet or a nicely crisp laundered menswear shirt or womenswear shirt. Again, I hope you’re getting that vibe that I’m trying to share with you.

That’s the feeling of percale. It is lightweight. It’s a great fit if you’re in a warm climate, you’re a hot sleeper, you have the night sweats, or something like that. Go with percale. It’s going to be nicer for you but keep in mind that it does tend to wrinkle a little bit easier than other weaves. What you’re going have to do, if you either have an iron on you or take it right out of the dryer when it’s a little bit warm and put it straight on your bed. What’s the deal with sateen and why is it as popular as percale? A lot of that has to do with the complexity of the weave.

A sateen, you’re going to go one-under/two-over, one-under/three-over, even one-under/four-over. Although that might seem very simple in the difference, it creates a very different weave, different fabric overall. As a result, a very different sheet set. These sheets are a little bit thicker. They have a buttery feel to them. I’m going to hold up and do the hand feel for you so that you get this idea here. You can see how it’s draping a little bit closer to my hand. It’s extremely soft, a little bit thicker. Hopefully, you can see here, there’s a little bit of luminosity, a little bit of a sheen. I’d go so far as to say a “Silkier” feel overall. If you think about it, putting that on your bed with your beautiful pillows, your comforter, it’s all going to create such a rich, luxurious feel. I think that’s so appealing to people. Now, again, I mention that it is a little bit of a thicker fabric overall, so that’s going to be great for those colder months.

Maybe you like to sleep cold and so you want that warm sheet set. The sateen is going to be the right fit for you. It is durable. Make sure you follow the care instructions to keep it as long as possible. It may not be as durable as percale, but the nice thing here is that it doesn’t wrinkle as easily. By now, you’ve had a chance to learn a lot about both types of weaves and hopefully have a clearer idea of which is going to be the right fit for you.

I want to briefly recap them again. The percale sheets are going to be crisp, lightweight, breathable, and very durable, all great qualities. Remember, they are going to be a little more prone to wrinkles. The sateen sheets are, without a doubt, going to look amazing on your bed. They’re buttery soft, they have that nice sheen to them, but because they’re thicker, they’re going to sleep a little bit warm. Keep in mind, they might be better for the winter. Now, the weave is just one of the many factors to take into consideration when shopping for sheets. Don’t forget you’ve got fabric, color, thread count, and, of course, you’ve got price. If you want to learn more, check out our YouTube channel Mattress Clarity. You’ve got a whole bunch of sheet stuff going on there. Don’t hesitate to let me know if you’ve got any questions. Now, I’m exhausted.

I’m going to go take a nap on these sheets, so I’ll see you later. .

Palm Leaf Fish Garnish

Welcome back to another cooking video. I’m Chef Devaux and today I’m going to teach you how to make a very simple little garnish out of just a palm tree leaf that will look stunning on any sushi platter. Okay let’s get right into it, let’s get going! Okay to make this garnish you’re going to need a palm leaf like this and you just want to tear off one of the strips like so. Now here I’m just going to cut the end off, there we go. Now you’re going to need two of these.

Before you start getting to making the garnish you’re going to want to remove the little stringy bits and clean these before you get to any making of the garnish. Okay, so now you’ve done that, just place one between your thumb and your index finger and make a loop, make sure it’s big enough and then you make a second loop and hold it all together with your index finger.

Now you want to take the second strip and just feed it in through the middle and going through the outside of the first loop and feed it in 80% of the way through. Then you want to go through the inside and the outside of the opposite side, just like that. I’m just going to feed it in a little bit more, there we go. And now you want to go through the outside and then the inside, and then you want to do the same on the other side. So again you go on the outside and then the inside. There we go that’s basically it. Now all you have to do is just tighten this up.

So you want to pull on the excesses here and you just keep pulling and threading it through and just moving it about until you’ve compressed the inside and taken all the slack out of it. Once you’ve done that it will hold together in one piece, so just a little bit more, this is just a little bit fidgety but you get through it and just keep going. There we go, that’s it. Now you just need to do a little bit of trimming to finish it off. I like to do a little zigzag pattern on the inside fins like this, it gives it a little bit of a fishy vibe and I think it really adds to the design.

Okay so do the same on the opposite side, just like that – okay great, and now I’m going to do just a straight cut for the outer fins, there we go and that’s it. That’s how simple it is to make a palm leaf into a fish design that you can use for garnishing your sushi platters or any other dish. Alright, I hope you enjoyed seeing how to make this simple little garnish. If you want to check out some more of my garnishes, check out this video right here. Thank you for watching, see you next week. Bye! END .

The Purple® Pillow: Official Kickstarter Video

How do you know if the pillow you’re sleeping on is garbage? Warning, what you’re about to see is actual actual science. Strike! Strike! Actual garbage. I’m as shocked as you are. Ahhh. So that’s how you know if the pillow you are sleeping is full of garbage. Unfortunately expensive or cheap most pillows on the market are simply…Terrible. And this is exactly why the real-life comfort scientists that brought you the revolutionary purple bed put their inventive genius to work on designing a completely new kind of pillow. Presenting, the Purple Pillow. The only pillow designed to perfectly respond to your individual sleep type. Huh interesting. Still comfy? Thank you sir. You’re, you’re free to go… Huh…But before we get too far into the Purple Pillow let’s take a quick look at what’s inside other pillows on the market.

You see for years pillow technology has refused to grow up. Like your brother who’s still waiting for his Hogwarts acceptance letter. I caught the snitch! Yes! They basically take some loose softish stuff and put it inside of a bag This is a problem though if the inside of a pillow is just loose fluff no matter how you shape and shift your pillow to fit your neck as you sleep it all falls flat this is the reason that no matter what your bedtime pillow looks like your morning pillow looks like this… The halfpipe a u-shaped gulch caused by a complete evacuation of the pillow fluff to either side the wedge The wedge. The flattening of fluff resulting in no neck support and basic sadness The untamable bulge caused by an overstuffed or over firm pillow; results in a 90-degree neck sleep position and a future job as an evil henchmen The curvy girl these curves are always either too much to handle or there just isn’t enough for true neck support oh and its memory foam so no thanks.

Others tho have tried to fix the problem of loose fluff with this memory foam but memory foam has its own problems. It starts softish, then as it warms the cells compact it loses its shape and becomes a hot sweaty brick. Unlike any pillow before it Purple Pillow uses a patented comfort grid system that gives locally but not globally and even the design the grid itself is specially engineered to sink a bit more in the center where your head rests while remaining comfortably supportive under your neck where you need it I mean just look at that beautiful neck alignment and it doesn’t matter if you sleep back, side or undecided the Purple Pillow will give you the exact support you need every time and that there is the magic of science everybody! But what if you find you need more or less support? Well for those who crave adjustability the Purple Pillow is equipped with an adjustable air booster that you can raise or lower to your exact comfort needs.

It’s a completely new sleeping experience. It doesn’t feel like the pillows of old, it’s got kind of like a blobby feel, like sleeping on the belly of a friendly fat man which trust me is a good thing. Also we’ve said it before, weight is quality in the Purple Pillow is quality and it’s adjustability makes it the perfect pillow for everyone. Yup, that’s 80 comforts per minute. Mama that’s comfortable! So you can go ahead and take all your old pillows and burn them! Actually don’t because many of them are full of toxic chemicals that we just don’t want to breathe and hey to all you chronic pillow flippers always craving the cool side of the pillow well you are always sleeping on the cool side of the pillow.

It reads much cooler in post sleep temperature than the competition. If you or someone you know sleeps you need the Purple Pillow. Click here to go to OnPurple.com Purple, no pressure. ::Action:: Mom! I caught the snitch I caught the snitch mom! Yes! Yes, yes! The snitch is mine! .

Side Sleeping Will Never Be the Same. #purple

Hi, I’m Goldilocks. What’s a scientific way to tell that your bed is terrible for side sleeping? I give you: The Side Sleeper Test This is Terry, an actual purple scientist. And these are the three bears And because this is a mattress commercial Here’s an attractive model! When sleeping on your side, the best spinal alignment is straight. If your spine is bending, it’s straining. And with 8 hours in that position Just make sure you befriend a chiropractor, like ASAP. Let’s observe the spine curvature of the attractive model on different beds. Remember a straight spine is the goal. First, the flat bare ground Ouch! $3,500 Memory Foam mattress No thank you! Pillow Top bed Uh Uh $5000 Air Bed: Hard Setting Soft Setting If spines could talk (scream) Leading Bed in a Box Now, watch the difference with Purple… …A Straight Spine Purple cradles your pressure points while supporting everywhere else, Keeping your spine straight Now you can sleep as comfortably as a distinguished scientist in a fluffy bed of bears. So if you love your sleep AND your spine, Click above to buy your Purple bed at OnPurple.com.

No pressure, it’s Purple .

How to make a plywood Tatami Bed

Welcome back! Today I’m going to make a Japanese-style bed. These beds are lower than western ones, with the mattress embedded in a wooden frame. I’ve tried to come up with a design that would be easy to make using plywood, although other kinds of wooden sheets could also be used. Besides, this design is easy to assemble and disassemble, quite convenient if we want to move. I’ve designed two types of bed. This one is meant to be adapted to a common metal bed frame which you can find in any store. As you can see, the bed frame rests on these four corners which, in turn, join all the pieces. The other bed design is of the same size. However, for this design we’ll use a homemade plywood frame. In this video I’ll show you how I made the first of the two models, although both beds have similar makes.

By changing the length of some pieces we can adapt this design to any bed size. Now let’s take a look at how I made it. This time around, in order to save time I’ve ordered some pre-cut pieces from the same warehouse where I bought the board, since the parts are quite large. I’ll start by cutting these pieces at an angle. They’ll be used to make the headboard thicker. I’ll also machine this rebate to work around the floor plinth. I’ll also glue these pieces together, onto which I will later screw the bed side rails. Now I glue the three upper side rails together to make them thicker. I machine these pieces like this and put them in place with glue.

I sand these parts now that it’s easier and screw the bed side rails in like this. Now I can start assembling the bed. I cut these two pieces in half to make four supports for the bed frame. First I screw this one onto the side rails, keeping it 1mm away from the edge. I remove the piece and then screw it onto the headboard. This way, when screwing it back on, the screws will put pressure and the joint between the side rail and the headboard will be tighter. I’ll use the same system for the back. I’ve numbered all the corners to make future assemblies easier. With these last screws I finish putting the bed together. Now it’s time to set up the nightstands. I glue these parts together and add a little salt to stop them from moving due to the glue’s viscosity. Once the glue is dry, I sand the inner part now that it’s easier and continue assembling the nightstands.

I finish sanding all the pieces that make up the bed and apply three coats of satin water-based varnish. I’m going to put everything back together at the workshop to see what the finished bed looks like. I love how the edge of the plywood looks. Of course, we could apply some dye to change the color, but I like the natural look of birch wood. .

33 – How To Edgeband Plywood

Marc: Plywood is an excellent material for building furniture. But it suffers from one major flaw, ugly edges. (rock music) Despite what some may think, plywood is not a four letter word. Actually it’s more like seven letters and you definitely should not be afraid to use it in your projects. Some of my favorite pieces contain plywood. The panels of this amoire, the doors of this jewelry box, the top of this hall table, and this entire desk system. Yep, all plywood. Plywood is flat, it’s stable, and it comes in lots of varieties. And you could even use plywood as a base for your favorite exotic veneers. Now, descent plywood should run you at least $40 a sheet, but even the most expensive plywood presents the same old challenge. How do you treat the edges? Now the most common solution is edge banding. Edge banding comes in a number of varieties including; thin veneer, thin home sawn veneer, and then a more substantial solid wood strip.

The thin veneer edge banding usually comes in rolls like this and it can be purchased plain or in the iron-on variety. Now personally I prefer a good quality iron-on banding. By good quality, I mean a nice, clean face and a good chunky layer of glue on the other side. Now, I usually pick this material up at my local hardwood dealer. So why not use the regular stuff, without the pre-applied glue? Well, I find it difficult to get the proper clamping pressure across the edge and it’s a lot messier.

It also takes a lot longer to dry, so pre-glued is the only way to go in my shop. Now, it’s no secret that veneer edge banding gets a pretty bad rap. Most people see this stuff and immediately think that it’s gonna peel off or just become a problem down the road and that’s not necessarily true if you use the right material and you apply it correctly. Let me show you how. Here are the basic tools you’ll need for the job. Nothing really fancy. Start by bringing the iron up to temperature. I like it just shy of the hottest setting. Next, I cut a strip of edge banding just a bit over sized. Now with the work piece in a vertical position, I begin heating up the first 5″-6″ of the veneer. And keep the iron moving in order to avoid burning. Also notice how I occasionally tilt the iron on an angle to ensure good contact between the glue and the edge of the plywood. Once the glue is melted, go over the area with a roller to ensure full and complete contact.

This is really the step that makes a difference between a quality edge banding job and a crappy one. I then repeat the entire process on the remainder of the edge banding and this is a system that I use whether the piece is 1′ long or 6′ long. And here’s a little tip for you. Try to keep the bulk of the material to one side of the ply. This makes life a whole lot easier when it comes time to flush the veneer to the surface. Trimming the ends is fairly easy. With the veneer face down, simply scribe the edge with a utility knife and snap the piece off. I have two methods of removing the bulk of the overhang. The first is with a utility knife.

Simple and effective, but it can be difficult if you’re working on an assembled case or odd shaped parts. The second method is to use a simple block plane. After a few swipes the edging will be flush with the surface. Just take care not to gauge your ply. It’s very easy to do and it looks terrible. (scraping) The final step is 180 grit sanding. This will remove any excess glue and smooth out the edge. When it’s all said and done, you should be left with a seamless transition between the face and the edging. (funky music) So what do we do in a case like this? You’re gonna confront this a lot in standard case work. We’ve got a fitted piece in the middle here between two other pieces.

I’ll show you how that’s done. Once again, I cut an over sized strip of edge banding. The first order of business is to square up one edge. This is easy enough to do using a scrap piece of plywood, a square, and a utility knife. Just watch your fingers and lightly score the veneer before breaking it off. I place the square end of my new strip against the adjoining piece and apply some heat.

I’m really only focused on the first few inches here. Notice that I only roll toward the joint. Rolling away will cause the piece to move and result in a gap. Now that the first few inches are secure, I heat up the rest of the strip. Be sure not to glue down the last few inches. Using a square, I score the loose end of the strip so that it’s just slightly over sized and by slightly, I mean no more than about 1/64th of an inch. Now I lift up the loose end and bend the tip down so it pushes against the adjoining piece.

I then apply heat and pressure. That little bit of extra material is what gives us a perfect joint. (funky music) Now if you want to step up the quality and you want something that’s a bit more durable than veneer, you could always use these home sawn strips. Now I usually cut mine to about 1/8″ thick and about 3/4″ wide. And since most plywood is just under 3/4″, this gives me that little bit of extra material I need to ensure perfect coverage. I have two ways I like to attach thin home sawn strips.

The first is simply glue and clamps. I apply glue to both the strip and the ply. Now here’s a little tip for you. If you use scrap pieces of veneer to prop the piece of ply up, the strip will be roughly centered on the edge. I then use a small strip of alder as a call, which will distribute the clamping pressure across the surface. The second technique is about as low tech as it gets. I just use strips of tape as little clamps that secure the strip until the glue dries. Obviously this is not ideal in terms of clamping pressure, but this trick may get you out of a bind sometime. Once the glue is dry I use a flush trim saw to carefully trim off the excess material. (sawing) To flush up the edging, I start with a block plane to remove the bulk. (scraping) I follow up with a card scraper in order to avoid gauging the ply and finally, a light 180 grit sanding. The final option is to use a more substantial piece of solid edge banding.

This technique is great if you need a really durable edge or if you want to be able to route a profile into it. You can’t really do that with these thin strips. Once again, I have two techniques. The first of which is the standard glue and clamps. The second method I use is for when you’re in a bit of a rush. I use 1/4″ brad nails and glue. Before shooting the brad nails, I place a small piece of tape over each spot that I plan on driving a nail through. Now I’m not a huge fan of this method because nails don’t apply consistent pressure across the surface like clams and calls, but in some situations this may be the only option and since we’re making holes, we need to repair holes and that’s why I put the tape down first.

The tape ensures that the filler goes in the hole only and not in the surrounding grain. Now flushing the edging is the same routine. You start with the block plane, move to the card scraper, and then a little bit of sanding. (funky music) Now you want to have a little bit more fun with your edges? Here’s one of my favorite tricks. If you take a thin strip of one species and glue that on first, then glue on top of that, another species, you get the look of a fine perimeter inlay.

The doors on this jewelry box were done this way, as were the tops of our office desks. Fine furniture can mean different things to different people. While I probably wouldn’t use iron-on edge banding for my ‘fine furniture’, I wouldn’t hesitate to use solid wood edge banding, but you know, that’s just my opinion. And although I try to use solid wood in all of my projects, there are just times when plywood makes the most structural and economic sense. So as you can see, if treated properly, plywood can truly be a beautiful thing. Thanks for watching. (soft banjo music) .

How to build Eiffel tower scale model (Part 3/3)

Coming in this episode I seed some grass Put impatient people to wait in a queue and get this whole sh*t completed Take a comfy chair and relax Well hello there! As you can see I started this third episode by making this final third of the tower Next I will build the third floor, the sky deck And then I can attach this to the parts I have done earlier I have to admit that this looks quite nice Now the only thing that is left is the surroundings I’ll turn this ugly brown area into beautiful grass and put some trees and also little people standing under this tower I really like these little people here They kind of turn this tower alive I will put just a couple more of them and then this whole project is completed It’s now time to say thank you all for joining me on this pleasant journey This has become a really nice model I will now keep a little holiday from these projects But after that, on september maybe I will continue doing some new models There are for excample London eye, Sydney opera house and Empire state building on my list And then of course, because I have a plenty of football fans following me a new stadium project will also be out still in this year alright that is the last one…

Let’s put it in place like this… Yeah Huh! Now it’s all done! Have a nice summer and see you! .

Magical houses, made of bamboo | Elora Hardy

When I was nine years old, my mom asked me what I would want my house to look like, and I drew this fairy mushroom. And then she actually built it. (Laughter) I don’t think I realized this was so unusual at the time, and maybe I still haven’t, because I’m still designing houses. This is a six-story bespoke home on the island of Bali. It’s built almost entirely from bamboo. The living room overlooks the valley from the fourth floor. You enter the house by a bridge. It can get hot in the tropics, so we make big curving roofs to catch the breezes. But some rooms have tall windows to keep the air conditioning in and the bugs out. This room we left open. We made an air-conditioned, tented bed. And one client wanted a TV room in the corner of her living room.

Boxing off an area with tall walls just didn’t feel right, so instead, we made this giant woven pod. Now, we do have all the necessary luxuries, like bathrooms. This one is a basket in the corner of the living room, and I’ve got tell you, some people actually hesitate to use it. We have not quite figured out our acoustic insulation. (Laughter) So there are lots of things that we’re still working on, but one thing I have learned is that bamboo will treat you well if you use it right. It’s actually a wild grass. It grows on otherwise unproductive land — deep ravines, mountainsides.

It lives off of rainwater, spring water, sunlight, and of the 1,450 species of bamboo that grow across the world, we use just seven of them. That’s my dad. He’s the one who got me building with bamboo, and he is standing in a clump of Dendrocalamus asper niger that he planted just seven years ago. Each year, it sends up a new generation of shoots. That shoot, we watched it grow a meter in three days just last week, so we’re talking about sustainable timber in three years. Now, we harvest from hundreds of family-owned clumps. Betung, as we call it, it’s really long, up to 18 meters of usable length. Try getting that truck down the mountain. And it’s strong: it has the tensile strength of steel, the compressive strength of concrete. Slam four tons straight down on a pole, and it can take it. Because it’s hollow, it’s lightweight, light enough to be lifted by just a few men, or, apparently, one woman. (Laughter) (Applause) And when my father built Green School in Bali, he chose bamboo for all of the buildings on campus, because he saw it as a promise.

It’s a promise to the kids. It’s one sustainable material that they will not run out of. And when I first saw these structures under construction about six years ago, I just thought, this makes perfect sense. It is growing all around us. It’s strong. It’s elegant. It’s earthquake-resistant. Why hasn’t this happened sooner, and what can we do with it next? So along with some of the original builders of Green School, I founded Ibuku. Ibu means “mother,” and ku means “mine,” so it represents my Mother Earth, and at Ibuku, we are a team of artisans, architects and designers, and what we’re doing together is creating a new way of building. Over the past five years together, we have built over 50 unique structures, most of them in Bali. Nine of them are at Green Village — you’ve just seen inside some of these homes — and we fill them with bespoke furniture, we surround them with veggie gardens, we would love to invite you all to come visit someday.

And while you’re there, you can also see Green School — we keep building classrooms there each year — as well as an updated fairy mushroom house. We’re also working on a little house for export. This is a traditional Sumbanese home that we replicated, right down to the details and textiles. A restaurant with an open-air kitchen. It looks a lot like a kitchen, right? And a bridge that spans 22 meters across a river. Now, what we’re doing, it’s not entirely new. From little huts to elaborate bridges like this one in Java, bamboo has been in use across the tropical regions of the world for literally tens of thousands of years.

There are islands and even continents that were first reached by bamboo rafts. But until recently, it was almost impossible to reliably protect bamboo from insects, and so, just about everything that was ever built out of bamboo is gone. Unprotected bamboo weathers. Untreated bamboo gets eaten to dust. And so that’s why most people, especially in Asia, think that you couldn’t be poor enough or rural enough to actually want to live in a bamboo house. And so we thought, what will it take to change their minds, to convince people that bamboo is worth building with, much less worth aspiring to? First, we needed safe treatment solutions. Borax is a natural salt. It turns bamboo into a viable building material. Treat it properly, design it carefully, and a bamboo structure can last a lifetime. Second, build something extraordinary out of it. Inspire people. Fortunately, Balinese culture fosters craftsmanship. It values the artisan. So combine those with the adventurous outliers from new generations of locally trained architects and designers and engineers, and always remember that you are designing for curving, tapering, hollow poles. No two poles alike, no straight lines, no two-by-fours here.

The tried-and-true, well-crafted formulas and vocabulary of architecture do not apply here. We have had to invent our own rules. We ask the bamboo what it’s good at, what it wants to become, and what it says is: respect it, design for its strengths, protect it from water, and to make the most of its curves. So we design in real 3D, making scale structural models out of the same material that we’ll later use to build the house. And bamboo model-making, it’s an art, as well as some hardcore engineering. So that’s the blueprint of the house. (Laughter) And we bring it to site, and with tiny rulers, we measure each pole, and consider each curve, and we choose a piece of bamboo from the pile to replicate that house on site. When it comes down to the details, we consider everything. Why are doors so often rectangular? Why not round? How could you make a door better? Well, its hinges battle with gravity, and gravity will always win in the end, so why not have it pivot on the center where it can stay balanced? And while you’re at it, why not doors shaped like teardrops? To reap the selective benefits and work within the constraints of this material, we have really had to push ourselves, and within that constraint, we have found space for something new.

It’s a challenge: how do you make a ceiling if you don’t have any flat boards to work with? Let me tell you, sometimes I dream of sheet rock and plywood. (Laughter) But if what you’ve got is skilled craftsmen and itsy bitsy little splits, weave that ceiling together, stretch a canvas over it, lacquer it. How do you design durable kitchen countertops that do justice to this curving structure you’ve just built? Slice up a boulder like a loaf of bread, hand-carve each to fit the other, leave the crusts on, and what we’re doing, it is almost entirely handmade. The structural connections of our buildings are reinforced by steel joints, but we use a lot of hand-whittled bamboo pins. There are thousands of pins in each floor.

This floor is made of glossy and durable bamboo skin. You can feel the texture under bare feet. And the floor that you walk on, can it affect the way that you walk? Can it change the footprint that you’ll ultimately leave on the world? I remember being nine years old and feeling wonder, and possibility, and a little bit of idealism. And we’ve got a really long way to go, there’s a lot left to learn, but one thing I know is that with creativity and commitment, you can create beauty and comfort and safety and even luxury out of a material that will grow back.

Thank you. (Applause) .

Homemade Sushi | Fleur & Mike

Hello, guys, and welcome back to our kitchen. Today I’m so excited because we’re making sushi. Thank you so much to Elizebeth Pinchuk and Ceci Couture who requested that we make sushi. The main thing with sushi is actually the rice and we’ve made this in advance because it needs to be cold before you roll it, otherwise it will wreck the whole thing. So what we have done is cooked up our rice with rice wine vinegar. I’m actually gonna be making California roll. Mike’s inventing his own. I’m gonna pop my bamboo mat on there. I haven’t made sushi in a long time. I’ve made it before but I haven’t made it in about five years probably. And then you flip it over so you have a nice, flat cling film base. So mine, I have to do something really technical with. I just put it down and that’s it. Pass me the nori, please.

There you go. – We have the seaweed. Well, you make sure we got wet hands. Apparently, you should still be able to see some seaweed through your rice. I’m going to do exactly the same with my rice, though we’ll be doing something slightly different in a second. Need more water. Oh, you’re not wrong. You know what? I’m gonna put a mug of water for finger dipping right here.

Work well done, sous chef. I’m gonna leave a little lip. I’ve got a lip. It’s quite a fun sushi. It’s also quite fun to make with little kiddies, if you have any kiddies, or any nieces or nephews. So then I’m gonna flip mine over because mine is gonna be inside out. Ooh, don’t know if I’d be doing that right now. Are you ready? I’m gonna start to fill mine up, so I’m kind of doing my own crazy mixtures. So I’m gonna start with some prawns. So I’m gonna measure how much chive I want, which is about yae much and you pop. So I’m gonna add some cream cheese in. Mike, that is way too much cream cheese. No, it’s not, this is gonna be good. Can I have a little bit of cream cheese for mine? You’re not allowed any ’cause you didn’t request it. This is not your cream cheese. It’s my cream cheese, it’s my recipe. Fine. Now I’m just putting some wasabi all the way along. Now it doesn’t look like I put much on, but trust me, it will knock your socks off.

I’m gonna take a piece of cucumber like this and then I’m gonna pop it… pop it in the middle. I’m also gonna take some avocado and then I’m also taking my seafood sticks, you can use fresh crab if you want, but it’s pretty hard to find. Section off a bit, ’cause you don’t want a whole one, you probably want like a half of one. This is how we roll. You take it and roll it over.

This is not gonna work. – It’s the moment of truth. You’ve got to squish it together ’cause the avocado needs squishing down. Squish it like that. Or maybe it will. And then you take it over and you roll it again to the edge and you squish it so it’s kind of square. Interesting. And moment of truth. Are we ready for this? So yours has turned out pretty well. There’s a slight issue on the basis that you’ve done this before, I have not. You have, you’ve done it with me before. Never. I’ve never actually rolled one. I’ve never rolled one. He’s lying to you. He’s copying me. He wouldn’t have done this otherwise. I would have done this exactly what I knew what to do. Copying me again. Whatever. And then… It does look really tasty. A little bit of water on the edge, which Fleur didn’t note to do, which I did.

There we go. Right. Let’s take these off and let’s make some more. And then we can get chopping. I’m gonna add… Smoked ham and cream cheese and cucumber. Okay, I’m going for a veggie one, which is, just using all the vegetables. Smoked salmon. Mine’s gonna be awesome. Nice. – Over filled. See, your technique doesn’t work. Gonna squish it out in the end. Whereas mine on the other hand…

Oh, wait. I forgot to turn it over. So it’s not gonna like yours. Yours looks rubbish now, mine looks amazing. That… Just wrap it in another piece of seaweed. That’s cheating. It’s not. You snooze you lose. There’s cream cheese everywhere. It’s chopping time. You’re doing the chopping. Wet knife, wet fingers because you don’t want to stick to everything. I’m gonna chop the end off first and discard that because we do not want it.

Goodbye. This is the one I’m excited about. – This is Mike’s original one. – This is my original new style. It looks good. So I’m gonna put some ginger on here and I’m gonna put a massive lump because I know Fleur loves her ginger. I’m also gonna add some wasabi and I’m gonna add a big chunk of this ’cause I like a lot of wasabi on mine. And then some soy sauce for dipping. So excited. Can we eat them? Now please. We can. We can eat them now. It’s the moment of truth. I’ve got mine. My favourite food in the world. It’s amazing. I’m not holding back, I’m going for a second.

Can we make sushi at home all the time? Hmm. If you haven’t already subscribed, then please do. And a massive shout out as well to Elizabeth Pinchuk and Ceci Couture for recommending this recipe, because I really wanted to make sushi anyway sp. Mm, good recipe. – Thank you. If you have any suggestions, let us know in the comments section below. And we will see you next Wednesday. Bye, guys. – Bye. .

Underground House – DIY | How to build a house under the ground

Hey Guys What’s up friends? It’s me the Interesting and I’m Ficus You have asked us to make a house under the ground And today we’ll do it And if you, Yes, You haven’t subscribed to our channel yet Make sure to do it right now So let’s get started Guys, we need to dig a big pit. You can understand And for this we need a shovel, right? Let’s take 2 of them Now both of us have a separate shovel Stop it, People are looking at us So guys, now we are removing the top layer of the soil with grass when our house will be ready, we’ll lay a roof on the top in order to disguise it so that it’ll be not visible Snowman for the Poor It digs quite well but still it’s difficult.

We’ve already been digging around for 3 hours Guys, we are so tired of digging that we realized that this is really difficult so we decided to call an Excavator Guys, this is the fastest transport in the world Sergey, can you imagine this land is thousand years old Really? Maybe we’ll find some caveman there I need your clothes I’ll be back We thought that we can dig up such a pit by ourselves But we couldn’t Whoa, amazing Its cool, isn’t it? Guys, really cool Guys, today we’ll not have time to do anything, so tomorrow we’ll start constructing our house Yes, and it’ll be beautiful It’ll be really awesome, guys Look how high it is, exactly an outstretched arm Really It seems to me, we overdid it Guys, our venue can’t be changed and we’re back in the hardware store In my favorite “Leroy Merlin” Damn! It’s very difficult to choose the boards.

All of them are with knots, so they need to be chosen accurately Guys, without my help they can’t do anything, really For our house we took a cypress. It smells very cool. But you know it’s a street plant so later we’ll place it outside Guys, we have fully packed up the car with the goods from which we will make our house It’s really full.

Look at the top These are OSB sheets from which we’ll make the framework Today really we’ve got a lot of things and above all there are more passengers today so we don’t have enough space in the car Alight, Hurry up! Let’s move, we need to build the house How should we call our tree? Arthur? Is it suitable name? We watched a movie about King Arthur Yes, exactly Guys, I think you all know about the movie King Arthur, we really enjoyed watching it. Alright guys, we have arrived to the pace with all the materials From which we will construct our house And everything is so calculated, so now we should start the construction And what do you think we should do first? Well at first we need to make a ladder Then start making it And now I am leveling the walls, so that these boards fit well inside We’ve already done with the floor Guys, It’s started raining. We need to do it faster It’s already so cozy feeling inside Here we go Our box is ready. Only thing left is to put the roof and make some decor in the house so that we feel inside cozy and comfortable Aren’t you scared? No I can already imagine the picture.

Here we have the shelves, tables and chairs. It all closes and it has a small hole leading outwards This is for the fresh air to enter inside the house because we’ll close it completely. And in case of rain or something, there will be ventilation We have already begun to paint the walls of our house Look, What happened to this! You had such a nice shoes Yes, it was nice Well it’s an acrylic paint, everything will be ok Aha, need to clean them Guys, now it’s time to cover this area with soil so that our house will be unnoticeable for others Wow! Cool I heard something sputtering.

I thought that you are going to cover me inside Come and have a look inside, I’ve almost painted it and it looks cool Wow, it’s so awesome and cozy inside Wow, we got here Christmas tree Christmas tree- Arthur, guys! Woah! Superb! but who is it? This is drawn by Ira. It’s you and Ficus It’s really nice I really like it, guys Just the halo from above, it’s clearly not about him It’s exactly about me We bought such big solar lighting lamps, which are charged from the Sun and lights at night It’s just perfect, because here we have got such holders You take it from the street, put it here and you’ll have a light at home. So now we let it charge to use it later Guys, we’ll really have an exhaust fan. We bought such a fan which we’ll fix it over here Here it is And now we fix it here. So guys we have such a fan inside. It will be pump in fresh air when the door is closed Cool Fresh air from the street This is protection against mad drunkards and drug addicts Wow, it worked immediately Yes So bright! Don’t even have to close anything Just because it’s already dark here I’m terribly tired today But I’m very glad that we made this house.

I have incredible emotions. I just can’t show them, because I’m very tired We did everything in this house to make it comfortable for living. You look at this wall. It’s really kick-ass Roughly speaking, this is not a wall, it’s like a studio You can bring here people for photography and make some money. It’ll be cool, right? Everything is stylish. By the way, it’s Dima who was actually designed the interior So without his help, it wouldn’t have been so attractive inside No, It was actually a good team work Ok, we were an excellent team Today you need to spend the night here, remember? Yes, by tradition Did you hear it guys? It’s the exhaust fan working. Really it can be felt Can you imagine? Here you can even walk. In the evening, anybody can pass around it and nothing will fall apart He won’t even notice it. Yes, that’s true Yes Well, it’s necessary to moisten a little bit with water so that the grass would be well sprouted.

And then it will be completely unnoticeable as everything will grow together with the ground and it’ll be alright Guys, agree with us that we got a cool underground house. Yeah? I thought that our house would be 3 times smaller We are delighted and hope you are too. So please give it a like Yes guys, please support this video and leave your comments down below Write us guys, what kind of house should we make next? We really like this category.

So subscribe to the channel Click on the bell to not miss out the new videos Thanks for watching Bye everyone .

Homemade Sushi | Fleur & Mike

Hello, guys, and welcome back to our kitchen. Today I’m so excited because we’re making sushi. Thank you so much to Elizebeth Pinchuk and Ceci Couture who requested that we make sushi. The main thing with sushi is actually the rice and we’ve made this in advance because it needs to be cold before you roll it, otherwise it will wreck the whole thing. So what we have done is cooked up our rice with rice wine vinegar. I’m actually gonna be making California roll. Mike’s inventing his own. I’m gonna pop my bamboo mat on there.

I haven’t made sushi in a long time. I’ve made it before but I haven’t made it in about five years probably. And then you flip it over so you have a nice, flat cling film base. So mine, I have to do something really technical with. I just put it down and that’s it. Pass me the nori, please. There you go. – We have the seaweed. Well, you make sure we got wet hands. Apparently, you should still be able to see some seaweed through your rice. I’m going to do exactly the same with my rice, though we’ll be doing something slightly different in a second. Need more water. Oh, you’re not wrong. You know what? I’m gonna put a mug of water for finger dipping right here. Work well done, sous chef. I’m gonna leave a little lip. I’ve got a lip. It’s quite a fun sushi. It’s also quite fun to make with little kiddies, if you have any kiddies, or any nieces or nephews. So then I’m gonna flip mine over because mine is gonna be inside out. Ooh, don’t know if I’d be doing that right now. Are you ready? I’m gonna start to fill mine up, so I’m kind of doing my own crazy mixtures.

So I’m gonna start with some prawns. So I’m gonna measure how much chive I want, which is about yae much and you pop. So I’m gonna add some cream cheese in. Mike, that is way too much cream cheese. No, it’s not, this is gonna be good. Can I have a little bit of cream cheese for mine? You’re not allowed any ’cause you didn’t request it. This is not your cream cheese. It’s my cream cheese, it’s my recipe. Fine. Now I’m just putting some wasabi all the way along. Now it doesn’t look like I put much on, but trust me, it will knock your socks off. I’m gonna take a piece of cucumber like this and then I’m gonna pop it… pop it in the middle. I’m also gonna take some avocado and then I’m also taking my seafood sticks, you can use fresh crab if you want, but it’s pretty hard to find.

Section off a bit, ’cause you don’t want a whole one, you probably want like a half of one. This is how we roll. You take it and roll it over. This is not gonna work. – It’s the moment of truth. You’ve got to squish it together ’cause the avocado needs squishing down. Squish it like that. Or maybe it will. And then you take it over and you roll it again to the edge and you squish it so it’s kind of square. Interesting. And moment of truth. Are we ready for this? So yours has turned out pretty well. There’s a slight issue on the basis that you’ve done this before, I have not. You have, you’ve done it with me before. Never. I’ve never actually rolled one. I’ve never rolled one. He’s lying to you. He’s copying me. He wouldn’t have done this otherwise. I would have done this exactly what I knew what to do.

Copying me again. Whatever. And then… It does look really tasty. A little bit of water on the edge, which Fleur didn’t note to do, which I did. There we go. Right. Let’s take these off and let’s make some more. And then we can get chopping. I’m gonna add… Smoked ham and cream cheese and cucumber. Okay, I’m going for a veggie one, which is, just using all the vegetables. Smoked salmon. Mine’s gonna be awesome. Nice. – Over filled. See, your technique doesn’t work.

Gonna squish it out in the end. Whereas mine on the other hand… Oh, wait. I forgot to turn it over. So it’s not gonna like yours. Yours looks rubbish now, mine looks amazing. That… Just wrap it in another piece of seaweed. That’s cheating. It’s not. You snooze you lose. There’s cream cheese everywhere. It’s chopping time. You’re doing the chopping. Wet knife, wet fingers because you don’t want to stick to everything. I’m gonna chop the end off first and discard that because we do not want it. Goodbye. This is the one I’m excited about. – This is Mike’s original one. – This is my original new style. It looks good. So I’m gonna put some ginger on here and I’m gonna put a massive lump because I know Fleur loves her ginger. I’m also gonna add some wasabi and I’m gonna add a big chunk of this ’cause I like a lot of wasabi on mine. And then some soy sauce for dipping. So excited. Can we eat them? Now please.

We can. We can eat them now. It’s the moment of truth. I’ve got mine. My favourite food in the world. It’s amazing. I’m not holding back, I’m going for a second. Can we make sushi at home all the time? Hmm. If you haven’t already subscribed, then please do. And a massive shout out as well to Elizabeth Pinchuk and Ceci Couture for recommending this recipe, because I really wanted to make sushi anyway sp. Mm, good recipe. – Thank you.

If you have any suggestions, let us know in the comments section below. And we will see you next Wednesday. Bye, guys. – Bye. .

This is a Computer? — Game LÜT

Pull your limited edition Resident Evil sake and Ace Attorney wine out of a Fallout Nuka Cola Mini Fridge because I’m Jake and this is Game LÜT! Get comfortable in a Loki Cardigan and put your incredibly awesome Super Nintendo sneakers made with actual SNES controllers up on this furniture. Wait a second…that furniture is actually an entire gaming PC. Wow! The Volta V is a beautiful and expensive computer with a case made entirely out of wood. You can get it in either walnut or bamboo and choose the components that suit your needs best. But if the cost for this work of art is a tad bit too pricey, then check out this excellent angular art by Ale Giorgini. Now go super saiyan with a Goku lamp or if you want to heal yourself try a LED potion desk light.

But if potions aren’t in your game, how about a Mario Mushroom which is actually a radish made to look like one using this Radish Shaper. Fun radish fact: radishes have an enzyme called allyl isothiocyanates which give it its tangy taste. It’s also found in mustard and wasabi. Now you can write this fact down on a note and then organize it with Justice League Paper Clips. They’re super…man. Instead of shaping radishes, slice them with a Mass Effect Omni-Blade made from orange resin and complete with a flip out blade. Speaking of Mass Effect, stand in front of some water valves wearing Mass Effect board shorts or an N7 bikini. It’s the perfect way to show off your muscular body, or you could use Street Fighter 2 Muscle figures like these for Vega, Ryu and M. Bison. But it’s still cold out so cover yourself with a Legend of Zelda hooded bathrobe and link it together with a Return of the Jedi opening crawl scarf to stay on the warm side. We should probably get fully dressed, so which shirt shall it be? A Death Note Akira mashup? Or how about letting everyone know you can do a barrel roll with a Fox McCloud’s Tactical Flight School shirt? Oh wait, why not this Attack on Endor one that’ll go great with your C-T3A-PO tea bag holder.

Ok now that’s a lot of LÜT so you might need a Space Invader Arcade Cabinet Backpack to hold it all. Walkin down the street with that baby on your back will make everyone passing by Marvel….bed sheets. Links to all the Lüt can be found in the description below and if you want more Game Lüt, there’s a playlist right over here. Alright, I’m going to go chase a ball or do something And as always, thanks for watching. And I am gonna go check you out, right now.

Oh yeah. Dont…wait. Stop. Yeah that’s right. Links to all the Lüt can be found in the description BLABLABLABLA Links to all the Lüt can found in the description bel…*weird noise* I don’t think he can fit in there. Alright is it…is it good? Paperclips! Because I’m Jake and this… You didn’t like this? Because I’m Jake… Because I’m Jake…you’re a little slow over there. Are we ready? Yeah sure go for it. Okay everyone be quiet! Is this where the camera is? .

How to Make Zongzi 粽子 (Bamboo Sticky Rice Dumpling) | Dragon Boat Festival

(music playing) Hey guys, it’s Angel. Today I’m going to show you how to make Bamboo Wrapped Sticky Rice also known in Mandarin as Zongzi. Now in Taiwanese we call Zongzi (Bahzhang) and the reason why I’m showing you how to make this is because Dragon Boat Festival is coming up soon. Now if you guys aren’t familiar with Dragon Boat Festival it’s actually an annual celebration most famously known for Dragon Boat racing and also the sticky rice so I’m really excited to share this recipe with you and share this annual tradition with you.

And if you’re interested in learning more about the history of Dragon boat day or Dragon Boat Festival my grandfather gave me a translation that he wanted me to share with you guys and I will post a link to that on my blog. So with that, let’s get started. Let’s start with the bamboo leaves. Now this recipe makes a dozen Zongzi, which means we will need at least 24 leaves that’s 2 leaves for each Zongzi that we’re going to be wrapping. So I highly recommend that you wash and prepare about 30-35 because as you go through the washing process you’ll notice that some will break or some may not be the ones that you thought they were, not the right size, so definitely wash and prepare more. You can start by soaking your bamboo leaves in hot water for about 30 minutes. Now they will float in your sink so you might need to put something heavy like a pot or a plate on top so that way they stay submerged in the water. After 30 minutes they should have absorbed water and become super soft, so then what you’ll need to do is take a clean dry sponge, wipe and clean off both sides of the bamboo, and that’s just to wash off any dirt.

Then, bring a pot of water to a boil, and like to add a little bit of vinegar and a couple pinches of salt to help with the disinfecting, then put your bamboo leaves in stem first. Let that gently boil and soften up, and once that’s soft you can go ahead and fold over or submerge the entire leaf. Let that boil for 20 minutes and add more water if needed.

Once that’s done cooking go ahead and rinse with cold water, and if you need to use some scissors to trim off the ends. Sometimes the stem will be a little bit too long, or sometimes the top of the leaf will be a little bit frayed. So go ahead to give that a quick trim to make it all nice and neat. Now, if you’re like me you can do what I did the other day and prepare and wash your bamboo leaves the night before, and just put them in a plastic baggie while they’re still moist and put them in the fridge.

Now, for the ingredients. Let’s start with the meat. Sticky rice is typically filled with pork so, you can use pork belly or lean pork shoulder. Sometimes I also like to add Chinese Sausage, so I’m going to cut up a few sausage links too. Since this is your recipe, you can also add other ingredients like salted duck egg yolk, boiled peanuts, and even chestnuts. And to give this more flavor we’ll also need half a cup of dried shrimp, one cup of dried mushrooms. I’m using these really cute small ones so I can put 2-3 in each wrap. Half a cup of dried shallots, two tablespoons of cane sugar, one teaspoon of salt, a quarter teaspoon of five spice powder, and a quarter cup of low sodium soy sauce. Let’s start by mixing the soy sauce with four tablespoons of water reserved from soaking the dried shrimp. Then, add your cane sugar, the salt, five spice powder, and stir to mix as best you can.

Next, prepare the rice. I’m using 3 cups of glutinous rice, also known as sticky rice. Wash and rinse your rice really well, before letting it soak in filtered water for 20 minutes. Now, let’s cook. Preheat a non-stick pan on low heat and add a bit of oil. Or it’s best to use pork fat if you have some one hand. Add your rice and stir fry for 2-3 minutes to make the rice more fragrant. Feel free to add tiny bits of water if needed to help prevent the rice from sticking to the pan. When you’re done, transfer the rice to bowl. Next let’s cook the filling. Start by browning your pork and your sausage. Add the dried shrimp and shallots too at this time since they take a while to soften. After browning, add your sauce mixture and cook until a small amount of liquid remains. That’s when we’ll add the mushrooms.

Then continue to stir fry until the sauce is glistening and has fully caramelized, then transfer to a bowl while we prepare our string. Now one of the signature technique and looks of bamboo sticky rice is the string wrapping. So here’s how I suggest tying them: Using a ball of cotton twine, find a place in your kitchen to hang your string. This is super helpful. Then measure about 27 inches of string length from top to bottom and wrap 6 times, which will give you 12 strings to hang your Zongzi from, because remember we’re making a dozen. Cut the string and cut again and now you will have 12 evenly length strings. Next, remove the string bundle and tie a knot leaving a loop as a hook at the top. Now, this is kind of hard to describe so I’ll just let you watch and follow along. Once you’ve looped your knot, tighten and check to see if you’ve done this right by pulling one string on each side of the bundle. If the loop and knot doesn’t move then you’ve successfully tied you’re string. Now, it’s time to wrap. Pick 2 bamboo leaves of similar size and shape and layer them slightly overlapped one over the other, steam and tip facing at opposite ends.

I usually like to place the smaller one on time facing closest to me. Then, fold into a cone shape and add a bit of rice, on top of that your pre-cooked filling, and then topped with more rice, making sure to pack everything in tightly. Once you’re done carefully fold the top over then the sides, and finally the top of the bamboo leaves making a triangle shape. Next, go to your hanging string bundle and place the bamboo wrap about halfway up, wrapping the string around once and pulling down firmly making sure that it’s snug. Bring the string up to tie a knot leaving a bit of tail at the end so it’s easy to unwrap when we’re ready to eat. Continue to make your Zongzi and wrap all of them up until you have made your full dozen.

In the end, your bundle should look like this. Now it’s time to cook. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and gently place your sticky rice bundle into the boiling water, including all of the string. We’ll want to cover with a lid and boil for 1 hour and 25 minutes or until the sticky rice is cooked and done. During this time feel free to add more water if needed. Once it’s done cooking remove the bundle and let it cool on a plate for a few minutes. To serve, just pull on the string end to untie, unwrap the bamboo leaves and serve your sticky rice with a side of sweet chili sauce or spicy chili sauce. So this is how you make bamboo wrapped sticky rice for Dragon Boat Day. It’s definitely worth it, it’s smells amazing. I can smell the bamboo infused rice and I can’t wait to eat this. Now if you love eating these, I highly recommend that you double the recipe and make 2 dozen because they do go quickly and the great thing about these is that they freeze really well. Just put them in a plastic bag, you can put them in the freezer they last for a couple months then when you want to go eat them again, just defrost them, for a couple hours and you are good to go, to either reheat in the microwave or you can steam them again.

I hope you guys like this recipe, please share this video with anyone else who you think might be interested in Dragon Boat Festival or how to make Zongzi. I’m really hoping that together we can keep this recipe and these traditions alive. Until then, have a Happy Dragon Boat Festival and I will see you guys next time. Bye! .

Sleeping Pad – NO Fire Retardants! Northern Naturals

Guitar Music Playing Softly Sleeping Pad Video So you can rest easy Hello my name is Lynda Leonard and I am the owner of Northern Naturals. I wanted to invite you into my home and into my living room and show you this sleeping mat. I am really happy with this product. One of the wonderful things about it is that it is a great alternative to a futon partly because it rolls up so easily and its smaller and its easier to store. They have these straps on it so its easy to tie it and keep it together. And as I roll this out you get to see that it is about the size of a twin bed. It’s made with 100% cotton batting… and its got a 100% cotton cover on it which has a really nice weight to it so that it is very, very durable and very, very strong.

It comes in both a conventional and organic cotton. So here’s a product that is durable, it’s going to last a really long time. It’s 100% cotton and it got 100% cotton fill to it. It’s easy to roll up . It’s easy to store. It makes for a great lounging mat. It makes for a great sleeping mat. And, The other thing I really like about it is that there are no fire retardants. So there is no out gassing, and there is no chemical smell at all. So we feel we have a great little product here and we are delighted to share it to you.

Guitar Music Playing Softly Music trails off .

Don’t Let Your Mattress Steal Your Sleep – Purple

Hey, hey look! They got one of those Purple Mattresses. *tv crashes to floor* I’ve heard about these. It’s supposed to sleep cool… and it’s specially designed to cradle your pressure points. *contented sigh* *surprised grunt* Oh… *tap tap tap* Huh?! Freeze! *Sleepy sigh* *lullaby music* .

Sealy Posturepedic Sure Elegance Mattress Pad by Pacific Coast Feather

IF YOU WANT A MATTRESS PROTECTOR THAT’S NOT ONLY GOING TO PROTECT YOUR MATTRESS, BUT ALSO HAS A QUILTED DESIGN FOR ADDED COMFORT, THEN THE SEALY SURE ELEGANCE MATTRESS PROTECTOR IS A GREAT WAY TO GO. THE SEALY SURE ELEGANCE MATTRESS PROTECTOR HAS A THREE HUNDRED-THREAD COUNT, ONE HUNDRED PERCENT COTTON COVER THAT IS DOUBLE-FILLED FOR EXTRA SUPPORT AND CUSHION. THE SPANDEX SKIRT GUARANTEES THAT THE PAD WILL FIT UP TO A TWENTY TWO-INCH MATTRESS OR SIXTEEN INCHES ON TWIN AND FULL-SIZES. ALSO, THE BRUSH POLYURETHANE WATERPROOF PACK AND PROGUARD PROTECTION CREATE A MATTRESS PROTECTOR THAT’S HYPOALLERGENIC AND READY TO PROTECT YOU AND YOUR MATTRESS FROM PESKY STAINS AND POTENTIALLY HARMFUL MICROBES. SO IF YOU WANT ONE OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY HIGH THREAD COUNT MATTRESS PROTECTORS ON THE MARKET, THE SEALY SURE ELEGANCE MATTRESS PROTECTOR IS A GREAT WAY TO GO. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE GIVE US A CALL AT 1 800 455-1052. .

Kerf Bending Plywood – DIY Ottoman Table Build

The problem: Ottomans take up space, no room for coffee table. Ripping 16″ section off birch plywood panel. Marking the center to find where the corners will be. Seven kerfs spaced 1/4″ apart. Raising blade to leave just 1/8″ of material. Scariest part! Running the plywood to cut the kerf. Phew! Cutting the rest of the kerfs. Test bend. Set depth of circular saw to almost bite through. Plunge cut. These create space for hidden splines. Test bend. Scrap hardwood ripped to fit in the circular saw kerf. Cutting out splines. Ready for the glue up! Apply a lot of glue! Clamp and check for square. Insert splines and let dry for a few days. Old desk leg, apply adhesive and sandpaper. Perfect for cleaning up the inside curves. Fill any left over voids. Sand smooth. Not bad! Placing together leaves a void.

Let’s fix it! Marking so it will be flush with the flat surfaces. Cut out on the bandsaw. Round edges on disc sander. Creating the center strip. Setting blade to cut 15° Slicing one side. Flip and slice other side. I went as far as needed, killed the table saw and took out the piece rather than run it entirely through unsafely. That’ll do. Marking out the profile for a lap joint. Cutting out on the bandsaw. Gluing in place. Apply polyurethane. Line inside with a slippery material. Trim flush with razor blade. It fits! This one fits too! Move two together to add the flush insert. Glamor shots. .

Put Vinegar On Your Plants And This Will Happen

There’s a handy ingredient probably sitting in your pantry just waiting to provide an array of super benefits Vinegar did you know you can safely use this ingredient in the Garden to? Check out a few clever ways you can use vinegar white and apple cider where your veggies and plants spend their days one Vinegar Kills weeds Instead of spending a lot of money on toxic chemicals to get rid of the weeds in your garden pour Apple Cider Vinegar directly on the weeds The acetic acid will stop weed growth without damaging the soil To get rid of ants ants don’t like the smell of vinegar so you can keep them at bay by mixing one part water and one part vinegar in a spray bottle and attacking ant hills with the solution both white vinegar and Apple Cider Vinegar work well three fresh and flowers Cut a pretty bouquet of flowers from your garden and keep them fresh by adding two tablespoons of vinegar and a teaspoon of sugar to a quart of water and add your flowers for feed your plants some plants like Gardenias Holly and begonias thrive on Acidic soil you can give those plants some extra Love by Spritzing a mixture of one gallon of water with one cup of white vinegar five test the Ph level of Your soil the Acid levels in your soil can affect how well plants grow You can run a simple test on your dirt by placing a bit of soil in a container And then adding half a cup of vinegar if the vinegar begins to fizz and bubble the soil is too alkaline add Sulfur or peat moss to even out the soils acidity 6 remove Allergens from your hands if you’ve been digging in the dirt with your bare hands Make sure to rinse your hands with white distilled vinegar The Vinegar will remove Allergens and other Debris so you don’t start itching 7 keep common pets out of your garden Animals that love to get in your garden like raccoons rabbits moles rodents and Deer also Happen to hate the smell of vinegar.

So it will keep them out naturally without causing them harm All you have to do is slip a few rags in your apple cider vinegar and place them strategically throughout your garden reese oak them once a week to make sure they maintain their maximum effectiveness and eight clean pots mix one part water one part white distilled vinegar Soap glazed Clay or plastic plots in the solution for at least an hour to remove stains and mineral deposits Have you ever used vinegar in your yard, please share your experience in the comments below? .

$139 Plane Seat Vs. $24,000 Plane Seat

– Dude, Ben, have you seen this video? Casey Neistat 21 thousand dollar– what? There’s a shower here? – Yeah, nah, I have seen this. It’s unreal. It’s the OG suite video. Why don’t you just do that? Why don’t you do a planes one? Isn’t that how Worth It works? You just see cool shit on the internet, and you’re like, “Buzzfeed, pay for me to do that.” – Maybe, is that how this works? – You tell me.

Isn’t this your show? Wait, are we on your show right now? – Are we? – You know what I hate about airplane bathrooms is the flush sound. (imitation toilet flushing) – Today, on Worth It Lifestyle, we’re gonna try three different airlines at three drastically different price points to find out which one is the most worth it at its price. – Worth it! I’m all about vacation, traveling, I love it more than anything.

My least favorite part of it is the plane. – I do have a treat for you today. Not gonna be flying on an overbooked airline. Isn’t that crazy how that’s a treat, though? Airplane! Alex, look at the airplane. It’s gone now. It’s too late. You missed it. (jazzy music) – My name is Jamie Perry, I’m the Vice President of Marketing for JetBlue. You’re gonna be flying on Airbus A321 aircraft from LAX in Los Angeles to JFK in New York.

JetBlue’s been around for just over 17 years. We were founded with the intention of bringing humanity back to travel. Bit more space, free Tvs, free Wi-Fi now, snacks and beverages for customers, no overbooking, just being a bit more human in the way we treat people. – What happens if someone is caught joining the Mile High Club on JetBlue Airlines? – Well, that doesn’t happen as often as you would think, but it’s something we discourage. Have a look in the lavatory, I’m sure you’ll understand why it’s not as easy as some people might think it is. When you design the interior of aircraft, you notice that there is very little that you can actually change. We have made a lot of little tweaks to our aircraft over the years that are designed to improve the customer experience. It’s a little thing here, a little thing there, but it all aggregates up. – Can you tell me about JetBlue’s pricing? – We try to be the cheapest or close to being the cheapest.

We certainly intend to offer you a far better experience than anybody else does at a better price. – You know what I actually want on an airline? And this sounds kinda crazy, is a straight-jacket. – You just wanna be like a baby swaddled up. – Yes. – You need a nice little pacifier. Have someone tuck you in. (upbeat music) So these look brand new. It’s like premium leather. They even have like the leather padded belt.

– They have the folding up headrest. (moaning) – I think I’m gonna join the Mile High Club with this seat right here. – No. Your first thoughts. Go. – It seems like I’ve never been on an airplane before, but I just can’t believe that I can actually do this. – It’s the things you take for granted, you know. Also, Alex is freaking out over this guy right here. Cup-holders. – It’s the little things that make all the difference. – This is truly the most leg I’ve ever had. – We’re in coach. – Buckle up, soldier. It’s gonna be quite a ride.

(seatbelt clicking) Wait, this isn’t– this is two of the same one. (drums rolling) Do they have my game on? – Yes, they do. – What? Usually I hate getting on planes ’cause you get disconnected from the world, but we stayed plugged in. Can I get cookies and Cheez-Its? Thank you very much. – You’re welcome. – I’ll just get Cheez-Its, please. I asked for one, he gave me two. That’s a good guy right there. – Doesn’t get better. – Cheers. (drum rolls) – Welcome to Ben’s Bathroom Breakdown here at JetBlue. Pretty close quarters, very clean. (toilet flushing) Clean, small, functional. One thumb up. Let’s get the meals going here. – I got the Soba with the Korean-style chicken. – I got the grilled chicken with brie cheese sandwich. The chicken is delicious, brie is delicious. The bread could be a little bit fresher.

– This one was really good. People are sleeping so I’m gonna whisper Flight Fact. – I say you just let it out there. – Did you know that when you’re flying, you actually taste things differently than when you’re on land. Your senses are dulled when you’re in the air. – So you’re saying if I ate my sandwich on land, it wouldn’t tasted impossibly better. Maybe that’s why all flight food gets a bad rap. – So we’ve been flying for four hours now. As comfortable as these seats are, sitting in one place for this long makes me restless. – I’m just ready to get out of this seat. – And those are the cabin’s fasten seatbelt sign. – Do not like bumping. (beeping) – I don’t mind it. What’s the worst that could happen? – I’m ready to check this one off.

I’m in a cab on my way to surprise my family who has no idea that I’m in New York right now. Hi! (child laughing) – Apple. Apple. – I stole some snacks from JetBlue. Hey yo! Wait, how’s your baby? – I don’t have a baby. – Are you sure? – I have two baby sisters, and they really made the trip worthwhile. – You mean worth it? – Damn it. – Alright, so we’re on our way to Surf Air which is our second airline. We’re going to the nice area, Santa Barbara. – Just try not to die. – Hey, hey, hey, stop saying that. Alex, can you knock on Ben? – Hi, I’m Sudhin Shahani, the Chairman and CEO of Surf Air.

We’re at the Hawthorne Hanger, and you guys are gonna be flying to Santa Barbara today. – Oh yeah. And what is Surf Air? – Surf Air is a membership based airline. What that means is members pay flat monthly fee that pay 1,950 a month, and they get to fly unlimited on our network of flights that go between LA, San Francisco, Tahoe, Napa, various other California destinations. – What is like the benefit of flying Surf Air? – Primarily time. It’s really easy, you pull out your phone, you book in less than 30 seconds, You come up to 15 minutes before departure. Our valet will take your car, you walk into the terminal, one of our club hosts will come and greet you.

You’ll board the plane– – Wait, no security? – Everyone’s been background checked, and pre-checked before and you’re a registered member. Very comfortable business class seat. You’re in the air two to three minutes after the door closes. – Boom boom boom. – Whole new way of flying. – Can I bring liquids on the plane? – You can bring liquids on the plane, yes. – So I don’t have to dump out my water bottle before walking in? – You don’t have to dump out your water bottle before. – That’s huge. So when we get to Santa Barbara, what should we expect? – Our concierge will greet you, give you the keys to the Surf Air Loan-A-Car which is a Tesla that you could use for the day. – Yes. – Nice. I like that. – Can I drive? Or should we have Alex drive? – Alex, you wanna drive? (laughing) – Let’s go fly.

Whoo! (luxurious music) – Let’s check out these seats. – Here we go! – Why would you– – I don’t like this. I’m going back. – If it’s just us in here, this is pretty legit. Check this out. – Oh, help me out here. Yeah. – If one was to join the Mile High Club in here, there is more than enough room to do it. – Welcome aboard. My name’s Austin. Josh and I will be taking you from LA to Santa Barbara today. If you have any questions, just come let Josh or I know. – I think I’m mostly happy about the fact that I don’t have to feel your shoulder rub up against me this type of flight like we did last time. – Here we go, buckle up. I thought there was gonna be a lot more turbulence, knock on wood, but so far, so good. Much better recline factor than I’m used to. This is a very comfortable seat, not gonna lie. – Let me grab that for a second. I wanna show you the leg room that Alex and Ben share right now. Way lot of space.

– And, we can have a casual meeting at the same time. Alright, everything checks out. The company’s yours. – I have this headset, I can use it to communicate with the pilot. Here we go, let us hear. – What’s up, guys? What? Hold up, they’re telling me that I gotta go fly the plane. – Are you serious? – Yeah, yeah, yeah. – Do not let him fly the plane. Many flights, especially the longer ones, have a special compartment, known as a ‘corpse cabin,’ which is built to contain people if they die while on board.

– Promise me one thing, if I die in this flight, you won’t abandon my body in the corpse cabin. – I’ll like probably just throw you out the window. (drums rolling) It’s time for another segment of Ben’s Bathroom Breakdown. Alright, so we’re in here. It’s like– Oh my God, there’s a hand. It’s like a little makeshift bathroom that folds out. It’s a nice toilet, but I’m definitely not using it. For a plane this small, this works. Alright, I take that back.

If Steven Lim can put his hand in while I’m using the bathroom, it’s gotta get a thumbs down for me. (whimsical music) – We just landed in Santa Barbara. And we got a hold of their Tesla. We got Alex on the wheel, are you gonna be okay? – So how was the flight? – Point A, point B, done in the most efficient way possible. It eliminated all the lines, the security, the delays. It’s been the least stressful travel experience that I can recall. – Oh, for sure. – I’m not leaving Santa Barbara without trying some wine so take me to the nearest wine stop. (whimsical music) – Cheers. – What’s the next plane? – So we’re back in New York, we’re gonna check out the most expensive airline we can find but before that– (imitating airplane engine noises) Airplane Fact! In the 1980s, the head of American Airlines removed an olive from every salad that was served on the plane. That saved the company 40 thousand dollars. What could you give up in life that would save you 40 grand a year? – Food.

– Alright, the last airplane to see. Singapore Airlines 24 thousand dollar double suite. – Dude, I have– my whole life, I’ve wanted to fly in one of these crazy– – Wait, I’ll do you one better. Singapore Airlines has given us exclusive access to the entire aircraft, grounded for a few hours. – We can run around like a bunch of little kids. – And they’re gonna serve us everything that they would normally give on the airplane, and no turbulence! – I wonder if anyone has joined the Zero Mile High Club? – Oh, like before takeoff. – Yeah, I bet pilots have really put the cock in cockpit. – Oh my gosh. – Sorry. (luxurious classical music) – My name’s James Boyd, I’m spokesman for the Americas with Singapore Airlines, and today, you’re gonna be checking out Singapore Airlines exclusive double suite. It’s aboard the A380 aircraft. It’s the largest passenger aircraft. We’ve developed an entirely new premium cabin.

We called it the Singapore Airlines Suite. If you’re traveling by yourself, it’s a single suite, but if you’re traveling with someone, we have something that is a first for aviation, and that is the double suite. We’re looking at hotels, we’re looking at the travel industry as a whole, and our goal is to reach beyond aviation to create the world’s best travel experience. – I’ve been waiting a long time to try this. – The first thing you experience is a welcome from our crew members.

– Awesome. Thank you. – Ooh! – This one’s mine? Oh my go– (laughing) What am I gonna do with all that space? – Dude, talk about leg room. – Whoa. – Wow. This is bigger than my dining room table at home. – This is bigger than my TV at home. Oh look at this! Little cubby-hold for my feet! – What’s the reline-ability? – Ooh! – What is happening to my feet? Wait a second! – I’m going all the way in. – I feel like I’m being tucked in like a baby. – Then, the presentation of amenities. – Thank you so much. This is cologne. Oh my God. (Steven laughing) Can we actually keep this? – Yes! – Oh yeah. – I missed. – We also give you a fantastic cotton jersey sleep suit.

– Sleeper suit. – When you’re up in the sky, and you’re getting all these treats, you’re basically in heaven, like this is heaven. Let’s go change in our PJs. – Okay, let’s go. (drums rolling) – Ready for Ben’s Bathroom Breakdown? I’m changing my PJs. See you on the other side. Alright, definitely most spacious bathroom we’ve been in. We’ve got lights, we’ve got paper towels, we’ve got a bench? This is a pretty fancy sink. What? We got a good looking toilet here. Let’s test the flush. Oh my God. That is the quietest flush we’ve heard yet. Oh wait, what? We got a comb drawer? First comb on Ben’s Bathroom Breakdown. It gets one, two, three thumbs of approval. I gotta get Steven in here. – Ooh. Alright, gimme the camera, I’m gonna do a little bit of– – Alright, get in your jammies.

– Jammy time. What is this, cotton? Wow, these are comfy. Boom! Look at this pants. See that? There is a piece of wood on the drawstring to hold it together. Now that’s quality. We get to play with the whole airplane. Money can’t buy what we’re about to experience. – No. – Well, if you’ve got about 300 million dollars at these prices, you might get one of these. – Ooh, man! – I wish I could go to work wearing this every day. Can you invite me to dinner on your side? – Yeah, let’s– join me for dinner. – Alright. – We like to present our passengers with a choice of beverage, and for many of our passengers, that really comes down to having that fantastic glass of champagne. The choice of Dom Perignon or Krug Grande Cuvee. – I’ve been hearing rappers talking Dom Perignon since as far as I can remember.

I gotta try the DP. Thank you for bringing me on this voyage. It’s been worth it so far. – Cheers. (whimsical classical music) That’s like biting an alcoholic apple picked from the vineyard. – I would never forget about the Krug. – Ooh, that’s heaven. Yeah, that’s the one right there. That is the best champagne in the world. (laughing) You know what we’re doing next? We’re gonna have champagne with caviar. – Yes, we are. – Are you kidding me? – Caviar, champagne, Steven Lim? What more can ask for? I don’t know any different, but that is damn good. I didn’t think it could get any better.

– I’m just going all in on this. – Eat that whole– wow. (laughs) Cheers! (ascending climatic flute notes) Damn, that is good! – It’s fresh! It is really fresh lobster! – Mhm! – And we’re in an airplane! We’re in the opposite of the ocean right now. Alex, you gotta try this, man. That’s good. This is not airplane food.

– No, we’re having like a five star hotel food right now. We’ve done it. – Food coma turned into bed time. – Wanna take a little nap? How do we sleep in this thing? – Your seat transformed into a life-like bed. Best night’s sleep you’ve ever had 35 thousand feet. (intense classical music) – Whoa, dude! The bed is huge! – It’s enormous. I never thought I would be getting into bed with you on an airplane. – Oh my gosh. Alright, let’s just do this. Ooh! Is that memory foam? Dude, what is happening? Look at this space. Oh. – Quality sheets. – I just have to check real quick, how easy is it to roll over to your side? – Alright, too close for comfort. – Wait, hold up, we can close all of these. Like we can close the shades. – Now, let’s get private. This is it. Good night. – Good night, world.

This has been Worth It Lifestyle: Airplane Edition. See you in the morning. – Later. (popping music) – What word can you use to describe that? – Exclusive. We just got to do something very few people ever get the chance to do. 24 thousand dollar airplane seat? – That’s what Worth It is. – Yeah. – You get to play in the playground of life. Which one is your Worth It winner? – Every one has so many good things going for it. Surf Air was amazing in that it’s this club where you get to pay a monthly fee, but go all up and down the coast. That being said, my Worth It winner has gotta be JetBlue. Affordable tickets, quality seats, it allows me to fly from the west coast to the east coast, back and forth, see my family as much as I want.

– If you need to go from here to China, what’re you gonna do? You can’t even take JetBlue. You can’t even take Surf Air there. Just for that reason alone, I’m calling it. Singapore Airlines is my Worth It winner, dude. – Whoa! 24k? – Here’s the thing, okay, I have a lot of family in Malaysia. The trip always sucks. Alex, who’s your Worth It winner? Put my mic here for you. – C’mon. – This has been awesome– where are we right now? Who knows, but– Peace. Can you imagine if everyday tasks, or like, going to the airport– let’s say you gonna take a dump, right? And you gotta wait an hour and a half, go through security, and do all that just to take a dump, right? That’s a problem. .

DreamFit Basic Microfiber Sheet Set

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How to Use Cloth Diapers : How to Wash Cloth Diapers at Home

Did you know that today’s cloth diapers and today’s washing machines make washing really easy? Hi, my name is Erin with Austin Baby and I’m going to tell you how to wash your own cloth diapers. The first step that you’ll do is a preparation when removing the diaper. This is optional but it really does make washing a lot easier as well as the diaper pail. You’ll spray a few sprays of an enzyme which is odor control and and stain control. And that will actually eat the bacteria and make a lot less odor in the diaper pail and a lot easier wash. So after you’ve done that you’ll put the diaper into your diaper pail or diaper bag.

When you’re ready to actually wash the diapers, you empty that into the washing machine along with your diaper bag which should be water proof and washable. You’ll do a pre-rinse on cold water. And after you do that pre-rinse, that’s going to agitate all of the bodily fluids out. After you do that pre-rinse, then you will want to run a full load that’s heavy-duty with hot water and a detergent that is free of residues. It’s not good to use a common detergent that will leave residues because it will cause leaking and smelling with the diaper. And they won’t will not perform properly. So in that load because you have agitated the nasty stuff out, you can actually go ahead and add in any laundry that you don’t mind washing in hot water. Save yourself your own energy and energy used with the washing. And when that load is finished, throw it all in the dryer except for any water proof covers and dry it on low or medium heat. Or you can hang dry them in the sun where the UV rays will take care of any leftover bacteria and will naturally bleach them white.

That’s how to wash your own cloth diapers at home. Thanks, I’m Erin Sheppard with Austin Baby. .